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Concrete Sealing/sealer ?

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by Janster, Jul 6, 2009.

  1. Jul 6, 2009 at 4:30 AM
    #1
    Janster

    Janster [OP] Old & Forgetful

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    We have a concrete patio which is nothing more than a concrete slab. Typical tan looking patio concrete I would assume. It's got a few surface cracks that can't be any deeper than 1/2-3/4" deep. The entire plot is about 171" x 135". The slab is probably 5" deep (measuring up from ground).

    We've power washed it once every few years. So - tonight I'm probably gonna power wash it again. Having a 40th birthday party for my husband on the 25th. Anyway - looking for tips on how to seal the concrete. We've never had it sealed since we've lived here.

    With surface cracks, do I really need to have those filled with some sort of compound?

    In terms of concrete sealers - is it just a matter of painting it on after the patio is completely dry? What's best? I've seen Quickcrete sealers....

    I really like the looks/color of the patio the way it is - so I hope the sealers are clear in color?

    Any thoughts would be greatly appreciatted! Thanks!
     
  2. Jul 6, 2009 at 2:15 PM
    #2
    TroutBum

    TroutBum Well-Known Member

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    Janster,

    The sealer probably will darken the concrete slightly - it'll look like it's wet. The cracks probably aren't anything to worry about, could you post a picture?

    Mike
     
  3. Jul 6, 2009 at 2:30 PM
    #3
    Janster

    Janster [OP] Old & Forgetful

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    Sure!

    How about after it gets cleaned? (laugh)

    The darkening part isn't a big deal. I didn't want to use a sealer that was colored. I like the natural look versus a solid color.
     
  4. Jul 6, 2009 at 2:39 PM
    #4
    bobwilson1977

    bobwilson1977 Well-Known Member

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    I'd look for a penetrating concrete sealer. I used to work in a paint department and if I recall correctly, ZAR made a water based sealer that soaked in and did not leave a film type finish. If you're going to fill cracks, you need to you an elastic type compound. Quickcrete makes some stuff that works. I think its actually called crack sealer. It'll expand and contract with the concrete. A brittle filler will just crack again. Honestly, sealer are only good for a few years then they wear off. Concrete hardens with age and as long as its kept clear of salt which corrodes it as well as moss, it should hold up by itself for a very long time.
     
  5. Jul 7, 2009 at 4:17 PM
    #5
    Janster

    Janster [OP] Old & Forgetful

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    Ok...here's a shot right after I power washed it. So, it's still wet.

    Should I bother sealing it? Or just leave it alone? It's in great shape and as far as I know, it's as old as the house (almost 31 years I think).

    Pardon my 'power washing' lines..(laugh)
    [​IMG]
     
  6. Jul 7, 2009 at 5:22 PM
    #6
    TroutBum

    TroutBum Well-Known Member

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    I vote for leaving it alone...
     
  7. Jul 7, 2009 at 6:22 PM
    #7
    WNYTACOMA

    WNYTACOMA Well-Known Member

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    I would try and carefully (artfully) seal the cracks prior to re-sealing. Living in the northeast, water into cracks in our climate with the freeze / thaw cycles can result in the widening of those cracks allowing water into the cracks depper, potentially under the slab and lead to settlement of the slab in part or whole, towards the home.

    Water directed towards the home in small volumes in one thing, but the slabe settling towards the house can rotate (top corner) into the foiundation and lead to pressure against the foundation wall, leading to cracking and/or movement / displacment....

    I would try a masonry compatible caulk to seal the cracks. Hydralic cement or the like will just recrack and you are left with another crack. The caulk type material will have some give and take to it.

    Rolling (as opposed to 'brushing') on the sealer would also work after you seal the cracks...
     
  8. Jul 7, 2009 at 6:24 PM
    #8
    WNYTACOMA

    WNYTACOMA Well-Known Member

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    I Responded before reading this.

    Looks like good advice.
     
  9. Jul 7, 2009 at 6:28 PM
    #9
    WNYTACOMA

    WNYTACOMA Well-Known Member

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    Careful powerwashing into the base of that T1-11 siding. The end grain will soak up moisture and could hasten the delamination process.

    Also - Water can get through to the structure (sill plate / structure) behind, and trapped moisture can result in mold growth and result in mold growth.
     
  10. Jul 8, 2009 at 11:58 AM
    #10
    Janster

    Janster [OP] Old & Forgetful

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    I hate that siding. I mean.....it's showing it's age. Needs another stain job.

    Thanks for the tips!
    ....Need to get caulk for along the baseline there. Any thoughts?
     
  11. Jul 8, 2009 at 12:01 PM
    #11
    Janster

    Janster [OP] Old & Forgetful

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    Thanks Gang!

    I'll see what time permits me to do.... I might run to Lowes/Depot and see what they got out there and maybe work on it this weekend if the hubby doesn't have any plans.

    It looks soooo nice when it's dry (lighter than the picture). Like to keep that look even for the future.
     
  12. Jul 8, 2009 at 12:23 PM
    #12
    Veccster

    Veccster bass turds

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    Janster, I am very interested in this and was just about to post a similar thread! I powerwashed our concrete patio to prepare for our 4th of July party. I do it every year (both the party and the powerwashing) and was wondering if a sealer would keep it clean. Every year it is filthy...but looks great after a strong wash. I also need to fill in some small cracks that are developing. We both have the wonderful PA weather and I think water in those cracks will keep expanding them.

    I don't have your answer but I am subscribing to hear your choice and reasoning. Thanks!


    And I agree...lighter is better because it looks clean. Otherwise, I would just leave it dirty!
     
  13. Jul 8, 2009 at 3:44 PM
    #13
    Janster

    Janster [OP] Old & Forgetful

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    Outdoor parties are da bomb!! We've should've done this a long time ago. You know, procrastination....and lack of or other priorities. :rolleyes:

    Yeah, they get soooo dirty. Some areas its just dirt, while other areas its green algae nastiness. :D I'll do some more searching online. I'm still confused of what's out there and what's available. I should e-mail a cousin, he's a deck/home builder dude.
     
  14. Jul 9, 2009 at 6:49 AM
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    Pster

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    I would suggest using a polyurethane caulk for the cracks (it's paintable, unlike silicone). You might consider tinting the sealer if you would like to have something more than just concrete color.
     
  15. Jul 9, 2009 at 4:49 PM
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    ItalynStylion

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    I've seen some acid etching/staining on concrete and it's pretty cool. I don't know much about the process but I'd always wanted to give it a try.
     
  16. Jul 9, 2009 at 5:03 PM
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    05 TRD Sport

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    Friend of mine sealed the (smooth finish) concrete in his garage. when it gets wet it's so slippery that it has caused people to fall. No wet feet from the pool allowed in the garage. Just something to think about. Maybe your patio has a rough finish and it's not something to think about.
     
  17. Jul 9, 2009 at 5:25 PM
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    Pster

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    I have a huge driveway that I had sealed. It's great. It really does protect the concrete from water and sun. This is an art and science. I used an H&C sealer that was tinted. Decide on oil based or water based because subsequent coats will need to be the same. Go ahead and seal it, it will take on a sheen....you can get high gloss or satin......but it doesn protect the concrete from deterioration.
     
  18. Jul 11, 2009 at 12:48 PM
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    Veccster

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  19. Sep 11, 2009 at 10:18 AM
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    Veccster

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    Just to follow up on this thread...I used the Thompson's Watersealer on my driveway. I powerwashed it clean and applied the product with a paint roller. I only had 2 days for the concrete to dry before the 1st rain.

    Anyway, I am VERY unhappy with the outcome. First off, the concrete looks very blotchy - like some areas are fully dry and others are not (it's been down for over 1 week).

    Secondly, this makes the water pool on the surface (i guess that's it's purpose). That is great on the slanted part of my driveway because it then runs right off. But on the flat part, I get those tiny little pools of water (like putting water on an oily surface). Well, those pools take longer than the concrete to dry. It rained yesterday afternoon and I still had pools of water on my driveway this morning. Very annoying!

    Bottom line...I am very disappointed in my outcome. The product does what it is supposed to and would work GREAT on slanted or vertical surfaces. BUT DO NOT use this on flat concrete surfaces if you don't want small pools of water all over the place.

    I paid $50 for the 5gal Thompson's Watersealer.
     
  20. Sep 11, 2009 at 10:46 AM
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    LEEP

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