Connect shell window to cab?

Is this a thing? Anyone done this?

Looking at keeping propane to camp, but possibly in the cab, with a CO/Gas Alarm also in the cab. Fear is if the tank leaks in the cab I might not hear it camping in the bed with the window closed.

Got me thinking; there has to be a way to connect the center opening window of the shell, to the sliding window of the cab. To leave it open as an air pass-through, but still cut off/insulated from outside cold air getting in



looks like this guy has some kind on an ARE

 

There are inflatable boots that people use to A/C the bed.

Here's a random link to the kind of thing I'm talking about. No idea about brands or fitment:

https://www.trailfx.com/trailfx/truck-accessories/truk-boot

 

I've heard there's one type that rubs the paint off with grit; I'd have to guess inflatable style is the one to do that
vs other types like accordion rubber boots that I imagine could stick on with

$8 3M VHB 100x200mm~ (4" X8") Double Sided Foam Adhesive Sheet Tape 5952 Automotive Mounting Industrial Grade Very High Bond 5952 (1 Sheets 100x200mm)

3M VHB possibly installed from inside the shell, or also folding down the window to adhere it to the cab, if the shell has a fold down window
I'll ask shell shops I know; surprised I never heard about it during install quotes that just went over lift it, slap some foam, wire the light

could draw cold in; I guess that's the point for the windows to still be closeable. As shells are less insulated than cabs.

 

You could try a motorcycle or bicycle inner tube inflating it between the cab and topper shell.
If paint rubbing is a concern just pull the valve stem deflate and remove when not in use.

 

The camper shell I had in the mid 90's, I think it was a Leer 100 R, had that boot there by default. I am not sure what year they stopped doing that.

 

There was a guy on here I believe that used a foam pool noodle along the top and sides. Not sure if he ran a separate one on the bottom.
I found the post.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2005-dclb-prerunner-build.669096/page-2#post-23766896

 

I would try this. It just needs to go around the center window so a bike tire should do it.

 

not sure if it has to be a fat bike tire or regular one
If regular sounds quick cheap and simple to get that and a hand pump
Maybe remove it off roading when dust kicks up

or maybe if there’s room, gentle masking tape on the paint, followed by electrical tape (seals better than masking tape); then the inner tube
to protect the paint mating surface

 

Even if it's a fat tire tube, still a cheaper option. They are easy to get also.

 

Remembering from... the '80s?.. One could buy an inflatable gasket to fit between the cab and cap. They were very popular. In a couple of years you could see where the gasket rubbed the paint down to the bare metal. They dropped in popularity. Can't remember the last time I saw one.

The cab and bed move independently from each other. You'll need to address that problem if you want to fill that gap.

 

likely because they destroyed the paint my 1990 had a topper like that and all the paint around my rear window was buffed off. from the topper gasket/seal rubbing on the cab

 

honestly I could even accept that at this point given the roof and hood fade spreading that a paint guy quoted me like $3k+ to fix and would need shell removed

obviously I said no thanks lol

how cool it would be one day to respray the whole thing
Better yet to a matte green or tan so these off road vehicles actually blend in off road. Which the factory green and tan of newer Toyotas is at least closer to than 2nd gen color choices

 

yeah, I've a white Tacoma and thought i was doing okay (only paint I've found gone is around the door glass and the paint under the hood) until I noticed a huge bubble on my hood sort of behind my bug guard and I was super excited to see that bubble, i may honestly grab a roll of wrap and start over the hood.