1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Connecting 6.5" Components to Front Door

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by mbrogz3000, Dec 1, 2011.

  1. Dec 1, 2011 at 11:59 AM
    #1
    mbrogz3000

    mbrogz3000 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2011
    Member:
    #65009
    Messages:
    411
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Matt
    Northern NJ
    Vehicle:
    '11 TRD Off Road
    Hellwig Rear Sway Bar, AFE Air Filter
    I have an old school set of Infinity Kappas components that were used for about 2-3 years and reboxed when it came time to get rid of the car they were in. They were never abused as they were powered by an infinity kappa amp that never experienced any clipping, and that had its gain set about 10% lower than it could have been set to produce maximum sound without quality loss. They were still in perfect shape and sounded good when I removed them, but have basically sat stored for 8 years.

    For now, I want to connect the component speakers to the non-JBL factory 6x9 channels in the front doors, which will effectively leave the factory tweeter channel disconnected. I couldn't find any info short of there may be some dynamic volume adjustment from the factory radio that occurs to prevent speaker damage. Does anyone know if there is crossover filtering already taking place on the factory 6x9 channel or if the full range of frequencies are pushed to the 6x9 channels? I don't want to spend $40-$60 (or more) on speaker brackets and harnesses to find out that bass/midrange frequencies are all that are sent to the 6x9 channels.

    Those factory speakers have the worst build quality (plastic baskets...really??) I've ever seen. I guess they still sound ok for people who don't care.
     
  2. Dec 4, 2011 at 2:01 PM
    #2
    07TacoRidah

    07TacoRidah SHHHH, this is interesting

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2009
    Member:
    #26923
    Messages:
    2,907
    Gender:
    Male
    Pasadena CA
    Vehicle:
    2007 Base Model Access Cab
    Engine bay: aFe Pro Dry filter Secondary air filter deleted Sokie Tech hood damper kit Xscorpion dual 0g wire ring terminal (3) Big 3 upgrade (0g wiring) HID kit (headlights, H1 - 8k) HID kit (fog light 3k) Sylvania Zevo LED turn signals w/hyper flash resistors Rear back up light GY6 bulb Bullz Audio 0g wire Exterior: Dynamik Retro Projector style headlight housing Depo Euro Black Altezza LED tails Front grille swap (to chrome, painted w/bedliner paint) XR front bumper valance (dipped red) Aftermarket fog light kit w/OEM switch Rear bumper swap (to chrome, painted w/bedliner paint) 99 Cents Store tailgate lock Suspension: DJM 3/4" drop kit 1" spindle spacer kit 4x4 leaf pack swap (middle leaf removed) Air Lift rear helper springs Rims: 18x10 Work VS-KF front w/5" lip 18x11 Work VS-KF rear w/6" lip 225/40/18 tires all around Neochrome lock nuts Pepboys valve stem caps Interior: Wink Mirror rear view Center console lid fabric Metra Dash kit Kenwood bluetooth headunit Hifonics Zeus ZXi 6410 PB 6 1/2" component speakers up front 10" JBL GTO 1014 (2) 4 ohm svc in dual ported box JDM Fuchsia shift knob (Crown Royal shift boot)
    when I took out my OE 6x9's and tweeters, I noticed that there was one of those bass blocker cylinder things connected to the tweeter wire (forgot what they are called, sorry). I'm not sure if I am correct about this or not but I think it's called an active crossover, also I can't remember how they were wired but it should be to 4 ohms (so the 6x9's and tweeters may be 8ohms each ... hope I am not confusing you). As for wiring then to the OE HU ... that's a good q. I don't think the hu will put out that much wattage for them to get damaged. If your comps have that little box crossover as part of the connection, you should be fine installing them regularly imo.
     
  3. Dec 4, 2011 at 4:28 PM
    #3
    TurboGT

    TurboGT Stirring the pot since...

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2010
    Member:
    #43822
    Messages:
    1,080
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Gabe
    Portland
    Vehicle:
    '06 DC LB 4x4
    OME lift w/ Dakars & 885's Remote Start w/ window control
    Factory radio won't damage them, but also won't do them any justice... You'll want to crank it and that's when you'll start to do damage.

    Bass blockers are passive crossovers, not active... Active means something that has 12v (in a car setting), typically as in your head unit and amplifiers. Passive items would be things like bass blockers and speakers (IMO, they're more of a mechanical unit, even though they are technically powered by electricity from what ever they're powered by).

    As for the OP's question on full range signal at the 6x9's, it's as full as its gonna get from the facory HU. A decade ago, it was very commonplace to have a stock HU that only put out sound from 100hz to about 10khz, severely limiting what could be heard from the stock HU but also allowing the HU to be turned up louder w/o requiring higher quality equipment from the factory... Also why replacing a stock HU makes such a HUGE difference, even these days.
     
To Top