Coolant Flush Time!

Had my Taco over 2 years now and figured it was time for a little preventative maintenance.
Here is what I've got on order.

3 gallons of Zerex Asian Red from Wallyworld @ $12.48 gallon
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-Zerex-Asian-RED-Vehicle-Antifreeze-Coolant-1-Gallon/49660461

Gates lower radiator hose $14.45

$26 Premium Molded Coolant Hose

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CHGICK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gates upper radiator hose $16.09

$26 Premium Molded Coolant Hose

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CHGICA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This Mishimoto Blue Hose kit looks saweet but I'm having a hard time forking out $85 more dollars just for the blue vs the Gates hoses.

$151 Mishimoto MMHOSE-TAC40-05BL Silicone Radiator Hose Kit Fits Toyota Tacoma 4.0 2005-2015 Blue

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074G8TMQ...olid=38SS1T1UZFZVS&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Genuine Toyota Thermostat/inlet sub assembly (16031-0P010) $39.93

$50 TOYOTA Genuine Parts - Inlet Sub-Assy, Wate (16031-0P010)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KTIK91I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Spill Proof Radiator Coolant Filling Funnel Kit $17.87

$23 EPAuto Spill Proof Radiator Coolant Filling Funnel Kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I40ZQWE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3 Gallons of Distilled water to flush with I would assume would be about $5 at the local grocery store.

I plan on tackling this next weekend after it all shows up.
Am I missing anything?

 

A 22mm socket works great on the Drain Valve for the radiator.
It fits right over the wings and helps getting it loose a lot easier.
I used a 6-point socket.

 

I'm such a putz.
I canceled The Asian Red coolant order and decided to pay $6 more a gallon for the blue formula(same stuff differnt dye).
Now I'm waiting on Amazon to confirm the cancelation on the Gates hoses so I can order the Mishimoto Blue hoses.
I already have an exposed Airaid CAI with a big blue filter, blue shrouds on my headlight projectors, blue wheel spacers, and lots of blue on the interior.
I can't let a measly $100 keep me from scratching my BLUE BUG!.

 

Toyota rad hoses rarely fail, and those worm claims are not ideal in any scenario.

I'd leave them. A true flush means remove t-stat and heater lines with lower rad drain. Blast out with water then air.

 

@Jacked Burton to throw another wrench in your plans....

1. HPS also sells a blue silicon hose kit but for $95/shipped if you look around.

2. Might want to replace your water pump (if its due) since you're in there.

 

yes, intercept the heater core line with a T, and flush out. Also drain block with the petcocks on the sides. Lots of extra juice hides out in there.

 

That's how I do it. Just be careful when tightening. Easy to over torque it.

 

My juice of choice. Walmart...$13.

 

How are you disposing of the old coolant?

Not good to dump it in the street. It will run to the storm sewer then from there to the water supply.
Not good to dump it in the toilet. It will enter the sewage system, then the local treatment plant, then the water supply.......

 

Take mine to the convenience center we have here they accept biohazards etc. so batteries, computers, paint, oil, antifreeze you name it. It’s basically a drop off for the main landfill.

 

Most municipalities have a hazardous waste drop off day.

 

Are you changing parts just because you want to? The radiator juice is good for 100k or is that wrong? The hoses upper And lower last long time too, are they swollen? One of my trucks has 193k on it. Looks OEM to me. I don’t have the manual in front of me and I could be wrong.

 

I believe 100k is right. I changed mine due to swapping to a new thermostat around 55k, most had to be drained anyway so rather than put old coolant back in I do a complete flush. Another option to extend intervals is to install a coolant filtration system, that will prolong the life of water pump seals and the coolant, due to removing any extra debris floating around.

 

100 kmiles is correct. Mine is due, its at 109 kmiles.

No need to replace hoses unless they show signs of aging, like cracking or swelling or clamps cutting into the hose.

 

Don't flush with anything but water/air, the prestone super flush they sell makes head gaskets blow.

Not that I would know...

 

Worm clamps can bite into hoses.
Not sure why anyone would want a silicone rad hose. It's probably stiffer and seals not as well, requiring tighter clamping.
Silicone hoses are often used for turbocharger related piping including intercoolers, TIP's (Turbo Inlet Pipe), and so on. Not radiators.

Why are people replacing t-stats if they haven't failed?

Vacuum-assisted cooling system fillers are probably better than that plastic adapter.

 

Another vote against the silicone hoses, yeah the color is cool and all, but silicone hoses are more likely to tear and split and when they do it runs, speaking from experience here after installing a mishimoto kit on a Miata, they also fit a lot tighter, and the worm clamps as other people say caused the hoses to mushroom and or get tore up.

They also don't have as good abrasion resistance as the fiber reinforced rubber hoses do. I'd stick with OEM or the gates hoses save the silicone hoses for race cars, ultimately the reason they exist is just to be lightweight and look cool, but if you do any kind of off-roading I don't believe it's worth it.

 

I did my truck recently. It only has about 60k miles, but has been in service 10 years. I did the whole thing for about $ 25. That included two gal of Asian formula from Wallyworld and 1 gal of distilled water. The whole process took about 30 min using ramps. I used the distilled water to "rinse" what I could out of the hoses and overflow. Hoses looked fine, when pinched they showed no sign of cracking
Fluid was drained into 5 gal bucket and then poured into empty antifreeze bottles after refill. My local town has an antifreeze recycle bin and that is where it will go.

Very easy job

 

I replaced mine to go with a URD lower temp thermostat. Plus the stock thermostat that comes with the Tacoma is built into the neck, so you have to get an oem replacement. With the URD design, a commercial off the shelf thermostat will work.

 

Got 3 bottles of dis on order
Should look good with
next to my