Cooling issues? Not anymore

i dont agree with this. i think both systems are correct if they are calibrated correctly. but without tapping into the manifold temp the closest to how OEM reads is the outlet hose. this system if you wanted can be installed on the inlet hose. but you would have to calibrate it for that usage case. but like i said with these trucks the hardest scenario for cooling is idle sitting still. getting a stabilization temperature about 5 degrees above thermostat breach temp is ideal. the faster to react to an issue is on the hot side for sure. but with this system being able to set any start temp and have a constant ramp to any end temp you can choose to install how you see fit.

 

both systems are reactive one reads direct from the engine the other reads the correction temp post rad. both see if the engine is getting hot and if both calibrated correctly will react to the rise in temp with more fan command until temp and command stabilize.

 

but like i said i like to have the fan running before the thermostat breaches to ensure air flow thru the ac condenser and having the fan already started before the thermostat breaches. but im also in a hot climate and do require air flow at all times in the summer no matter what.

 

yeah, I guess it is all about the setup of the controller. And it depends if you want to let the radiator do it's thing then add flow only when needed, or if you really want the fan to react to short term temp spikes of the coolant coming out of the engine. I am starting to see the light that both ways have merits. Something to be said for adding airflow as soon as hotter than expected temp coolant is entering the radiator (sensor in hot side), rather than waiting for the radiator to not keep up with the cooling job before you ramp up the airflow (sensor on cold side). It might be a matter of preference if you want the thing ramping up and down all the time or on fairly constant once the radiator can't keep up.

And coolant certainly is a different animal compared to say, engine oil. Where the pump picks up from sump (the hottest oil having just been squeezed out a bearing or exposed to the backside of a piston, etc...) then pumps to a filter and cooler before entering the main oil galleys. In this situation, a fan on the oil cooler should be triggered on oil cooler outlet temp, not sump temp. If the oil going to the bearings is too hot, cool it more by triggering the fan. But don't overcool only based on pan temp...

So I was thinking the engine coolant was the same,,, but I am now thinking it might not matter, and it is just all about keeping the main ecu coolant temp sensor in a happy range. But it is hard to know when your thermostat is just starting to open, and when it is 'fully' open, and we don't have a good idea of how good the radiator is doing because we don't have sensors before and after the radiator.

Thanks for the discussion....

 

Agreed. The main issue I see regarding temps is at idle with probe installed on the lower driver side. Temps will start climbing if I'm sitting for long periods especially if its immediately after a long applied load. EX- stop light at the top of a big long hill. I have wired in a bypass to the acid wire (2nd gen AC on) as well as a manual override. Both of these quickly ramp up the fans to 60%.
I dont think either way is necessarily better than the other if each is set up correctly. Just 2 different schools of thought.

 

I see you're in Gilbert, I'm in Chandler so our weather experiences are pretty much the same. Have you noticed a difference in AC performance? Probably too hard to tell now that we're out of the triple digits. My AC works great if it's <105* or so. We had so many days at 110+ this summer and it takes my truck so long for the AC to become effective. And pretty much makes summertime off-roading off limits.

 

I have a few questions about these new electric fans.

1. How many Amps do they draw at it's max speed?
2. Can my stock alternator handle this kindof additional load in idle? Mine's not the Pro or the OR model, so my stock alternator is weaker than theirs. I had to replace it after year 2 under factory warranty. Had to go back to factory head light bulbs from my HIDs at that time (there's a thread here on TW about that).

 

I believe @Deo taco said it was ~70A @ 100% duty cycle. I've been running this kit for a while and haven't noticed any issues in power, but nothing quantitative.

 

Is an alternator upgrade needed? Or any low voltage alarm needed? I don't have a volt meter gauge in my truck dash like the older model trucks used to have, so if I'm idling (as i do a lot with A/c ON_) I can't keep an eye on voltage to see if it goes to red/run down.
I have a fear that ~70Amps is going to be a lot of stress and load on a stock alternator which is max rated for 90 Amps. And that rating is not at Hot Idle. It's most likely Max rating when spinning really fast at Freeway Speeds. I am worried if it will cause additional issues down the line, and strand me if run down battery or blow fuses.

 

I have an upgraded AGM and have noticed no issues. I thought the Towing alt was a 130a alt?

 

That is correct!

 

A good battery is a nice upgrade... but may ultimately prove to be a bandaid that will keep things running well enough while on the edge. Look at what the OEMs do, and copy that, or go beyond. Big high spec Toyota and Lexus vehicles run 150 and 180 amp units.

 

Does anyone make an aftermarket Alt? I thought there was issues with ECU controlling duty cycle? Is there an OEM higher output alt?

 

Toyota did most of the work for us. Need to complete and update this project.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/factory-denso-180-amp-alternator-upgrade.598940/

 

So the Sienna 27060-OP420 bolts right up and has the correct pulley? Just needs some massaging to the wiring harness in the back?

 

Yes, look at post #43, the harness and +stud connections on the 180 sit to the side. There appears to be adequate clearance between these and the frame... but never say never. Toyota placed the connections on the back of the 120 amp unit for a reason. The +stud is actually easy to move to a rear facing position, the hole is even there. The plastic connector is unfortunately brazed and screwed, so not easily swapable. Perhaps a low profile connector could be produced.

 

I dont think an alternator is required. This kid capable of pulling those amps. But thag would be having to push 100% command for awhile, like a long time and I have 0 idea what would require that

 

My friend also has an AGM battery and said the stock alternator output is below what an AGM likes to charge at, and so has to use a tender on his battery each month to top it off. An AGM battery upgrade alone won't cut it. A long trip on a hot day at 70Amps full draw will drain the battery faster than it can be charged at.

 

Analysis paralysis buddy. Hope you get it sorted

 

Easy fix just change the alternator voltage out put with vf tuner for his AGM !