Cooling issues? Not anymore

No worries. Yeah I ordered mine bare so I could use my own sheathing and terminate my wires at whatever length I wanted. Worked out good.

 

Got some HPS hoses for the Supercharger fan conversion project some OE spring loaded constant tension clamps and the install goes down Tuesday.





Who else is running the kit or has it on hand already? Post up your Lingenfelter VSFM and the temperature thermostat you are running, as I believe mine is set to 140 and I think it's a touch low to begin running the fan for my 160* thermostat.

Has anyone posted what the nominal amp draw is of the fan while it's running at X duty? Maybe I missed it when it was posted, I can't imagine it's running at 100% duty the entire time.

 

The detail for the fan operation is at the end of the install instructions. It says it starts at 15% power and ramps up linearly until it reaches 100% at the end temp setting. Mine was preset to 150 deg start and 240 deg end out of the box. However, when I was testing it the fan didn’t kick on until 168 deg (monitoring temp with OBD fusion). I guess there’s quite a bit of temp difference from the upper rad location vs the stock coolant temp sender. I wanted my fan to kick on sooner at around 150 for the AC, so I turned down the setting to 130 on the controller and now the fan kicks on at around 152 deg. I left the end setting to 240 for now and monitoring in traffic. So far the highest temp I’ve seen was 203.

 

This is excellent info. I'm going to set mine to 130 as well and see how things fare out.

Dude, really, thank you for the in depth explanation and highly detailed post regarding the differences between OE temp sender and the VSFM temp sender location.

If I had a way of pinning this post so it can be shown at the front as most important and informative I would.

 

@DocME . He has the Autocool Guy controller I believe. Or something like that. He could also add some input.

***Edit*** I see he posted in the S/C thread.

All I have from Ron Davis, was a thermostat switch. Once it reaches 186‐188, it kicks both fans on. Once it cools down to 166, it turns them off.

What specifically is the "end fan setting"?

 

fan spins at 100%

 

Guess I better do that also, this is my reading at IDLE

 

Isn't that where u want it?

 

I had the same temp start but did not kick on until 164 on my scangauge. I may set at 130 and give it a try. Driving city streets i was seeing temps from 185 to 202. No highway driving yet.

 

Sell this kit on Amazon!!!!

 

Just thought at idle it would be lower 190-195?

 

the only way to lower idle is to change thermostats. the issue is you cant be near thermostat temp or else you will have your thermostat opening and closing to much and can cause the thermostat to fail. the kit will tho maintain that 195-200 in all conditions with no creep due to weather. these trucks are designed to operate from ~200 to 250. anything 250+ is where i would start to worry about temp. too cold also has issues. like running at 160 isnt great bc your oil isnt up to full temp and can cause it not to flow everywhere you want it.

 

All those looking to buy. making this alot easier here is the link to the product
https://downeastoffroad.com/i-30530269-05-tacoma-electric-fan-kit.html

Use code TACOMAWORLD for 10% off the kit

 

for sale on our website at downeastoffroad.com

 

I left my settings at the factory default 150F/240F. Similar to you, the fan doesn't kick on until 165F as measured on the OBDII connector using OBD Fusion. As a test, I let the engine warm up during idle from a cold start and monitored the engine coolant temperature using OBDII and, using a Fluke, logged the AEM sensor temperature (the kit upper radiator hose temperature sensor) using the Lingenfelter analog output (blue) wire programmed for temperature.

Per the manual, for an AEM sensor analog output 0.02V = 1.4F. My measurements indicate the upper radiator temperature is consistently 15 - 23F cooler than the stock temperature sensor.

@Deo taco, given the temperature differences do you still recommend the 150F/240F default settings on the LF?

 

This is interesting on the comparison. i do know that the stock temp sensor is buried under the intake manifold on one of the heads so that might account for the Delta between the 2. per that you have 2 choices if you want a stabilization temps cooler. one bring the upper limit down so that it ramps faster or the lower limit down so it comes on sooner. i like the latter as it helps with continuous air flow thought the ac condenser and rad. but 200-205 is a perfect stabilizing temp on these trucks. as i said before this kit will help keep it there as usage and outside air temps get more aggressive. lowering the idle temp requires a new thermostat as you dont want to get stabilization too close to breach temp.

 

Just installed my kit after staring at it this whole time.

Easy install and the AC does seem to get cold faster. Before I would need to get above 30mph before the AC really got cold. Im thinking of wiring the override signal wire into the AC on switch to have it turn on when I have the AC on.

Only issue I had is I have a 2nd gen so the fuse shown in the instructions is not available in my box, also was missing the spacers and 3 of the fan bolts but a homedepot visit and $2 later i was set. After poking around the only 10amp switched power fuse I could find was for the injectors. Hoping this isn't an issue such as some type of electrical feed back but everything is ok so far.

 

how’s the noise level?

 

I've been installing electric fans on Toyotas for about 30 years.

I was hot to buy this one, but notice the complete rip-off pricing of $999.

I'll stick to what works great in my past rigs, 85 4x4 PU, 91 4Runner and 88 Fj62.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-180

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-67017

 

Not bad so far but temps are around 70 so it's not working too hard. There is a hum but when driving the road noise from my tires is louder.

But at 100% the fan sounds like a jet spooling up.