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Cost Effective Tips to Make your new 2nd Gen last forever

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by junkman, Dec 10, 2012.

  1. Dec 13, 2012 at 8:15 PM
    #61
    Larry

    Larry Well-Known Member

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    with age...comes wisdom ;)
     
  2. Dec 15, 2012 at 3:23 AM
    #62
    PMK

    PMK Well-Known Member

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    Grease the front wheel bearings before failure.

    I have already added a remote trans filter and powers steering filter.

    Plan to add an easily replaceable fuel filter.

    Constantly keep the headlight lenses clean and waxed or similar protection.

    PK
     
  3. Dec 15, 2012 at 5:06 AM
    #63
    SkullTaco2012

    SkullTaco2012 Well-Known Member

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  4. Dec 15, 2012 at 7:29 AM
    #64
    BostonBilly

    BostonBilly Well-Known Member

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    I have seen alot of guys on here do the oil collector
     
  5. Dec 15, 2012 at 7:31 AM
    #65
    Nixinus

    Nixinus Well-Known Member

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    I was skeptical as well but after some research I decided to purchase one. After 5k miles I drained the catch can and was amazed how much oil came out. The thread is here and my results are page #13: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/231227-oil-catch-can-install-guide-13.html
     
  6. Dec 15, 2012 at 7:33 AM
    #66
    junkman

    junkman [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Added - Thanks
     
  7. Dec 15, 2012 at 8:13 AM
    #67
    DoorDing

    DoorDing Thank you, Nancy Roman

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    I thought you had to diassemble the hub, press the bearings out, and replace the seals to grease them. Seems a lot of trouble to go through to reuse bearings.

    I'll look at the catch can thread later, but without UOAs showing improvement, it's not a project I'll likely do.
     
  8. Dec 16, 2012 at 5:41 AM
    #68
    PMK

    PMK Well-Known Member

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    White, debadged, Mudflaps removed, ICON 2.5 in front, 2.0 in rear, all 4 corners have reservoirs, Spidertrax wheel spacers all around, BAMF bolt on sliders, Avid lightbar, oem transmission cooler converted to power steering cooler, aftermarket transmission cooler eliminating all oem transmission cooler stuff, remote mounted spin on transmission fluid filter TrueTrac rear differential, rear diff housing vented and filtered into left side bed box, URD MAF calibrator, Volant intake scoop into oem airbox, second filter removed, airbox internals smoothed, blended and polished throttle body, NST intake manifold spacer, Wet Okolee set covers, WeatherTech Digital Fit mats, inexpensive JVC single DIN, Scangage, AVS Stepshield door sill protectors
  9. Dec 30, 2012 at 7:49 AM
    #69
    junkman

    junkman [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Still looking for more tips
     
  10. Dec 30, 2012 at 8:02 AM
    #70
    Badgtho

    Badgtho Well-Known Member

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    Still wondering about replacing the clutch every 2 years as the dirt post suggested?
    Seems crazy to me
     
  11. Dec 30, 2012 at 8:16 AM
    #71
    DoorDing

    DoorDing Thank you, Nancy Roman

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    I'm not sure what post you're referring to, but the suggestion was to change the hydraulic clutch fluid every two years, along with the brake fluid.
     
  12. Dec 30, 2012 at 1:23 PM
    #72
    fixnfly

    fixnfly Well-Known Member

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    The forward cab mounts seem to hold alot of mud in them that could turn into a bad rust problem. The previous owner of my truck did alot of off roading and when I bought the truck, the mounts were packed full of mud. I cleaned them out with a screwdriver and compressed air followed by a good rinse. Some fluid film inside would be a good idea
     
  13. Dec 30, 2012 at 2:39 PM
    #73
    DoorDing

    DoorDing Thank you, Nancy Roman

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    Good idea. I FF fogged mine already, but that's one of those spots worth flushing well in the Spring, blowing out, and re-fogging.
     
  14. Dec 30, 2012 at 2:57 PM
    #74
    pra4sno

    pra4sno Goof Ball

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    ^ Nods. Would think after 8 years on the same model there would've been a solution. :cool:
     
  15. Jul 25, 2013 at 2:47 PM
    #75
    junkman

    junkman [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Just looking for more tips......
     
  16. Jul 25, 2013 at 3:40 PM
    #76
    MagnumTaco

    MagnumTaco Well-Known Member

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    nice info thx
     
  17. Jul 25, 2013 at 4:35 PM
    #77
    Ga tacoguy

    Ga tacoguy Well-Known Member

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    :) It is a good idea to lubricate all your rubber gaskets with a Silicon spray. I do mine every other oil change. I also spray my window channels and any other rubber items on the truck.
    It is a good idea to apply di electric grease to your plug wires connectors at the spark plug and at the coil to keep water from shorting out your plug wires.
     
  18. Jul 25, 2013 at 4:42 PM
    #78
    ChiveOn

    ChiveOn City Slickin' Redneck, I wear a suit with a mullet

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    #6....Brakes, ok maybe but the clutch? Shifting smoothly is what saves clutches.
    :confused::confused:
     
  19. Jul 25, 2013 at 5:27 PM
    #79
    mr2mki

    mr2mki Well-Known Member

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    The question in my mind is, what tangible value does it add. Two things come to mind that could happen as a result of oil mist running through the intake:

    1) Some oil collection in the intake

    2) Some extra carbon in the combustion chamber

    Neither of these things are "good", but do they actually matter on a truck seeing normal service? Just about every car in the world recirculates crank fumes the same way, and none that I know of have oil catch cans.
     
  20. Jul 25, 2013 at 5:55 PM
    #80
    bb609

    bb609 O.F.

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    Bilstein 5100 CO's @ 1.75" - Icon UCA's - TSB Rear w/Bilstein 5100's - Air Lift System - Flowmaster 50 Duals(RIP...back to stock for now) - Avid Offroad Arctic Bar - Avid Offroad Nerf Bars - Leer 550 Bedcover - AVS Hood Protector(RIP) - Ventshades - Yota Bed Mat - Sheepskins!!! - Weathertechs
    Sooner or later, your gas fill door hinges will start squeaking. A shot of WD40 cured mine.
     
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