Crank won’t turn

That's good! Good luck with whichever direction you plan on taking this project!

 

Agreed something isn’t right but I don’t think the kid will ever say what the real story is behind this truck

 

TW. I’m lovin’ it and good luck!

 

All right I’m going to call it a night. I probably won’t do much with the Pistons tomorrow other than start cleaning the walls and picking up a slippery mess on the floor. I’d say look for new pics and update on Saturday

 

Depending on how bad the wall are, and pistons are, you might get away with just a new set of piston rings.

Best case scenario of course. Toyota only sells them as a set.

The bearings looked good though.

 

Take a break. 3 day weekend for most. Enjoy

 

If you have the money and time I would have a machine shop go over it, especially since you have it out of the truck.

I have personally flex honed cylinders that looked worse than that and got a whole nother lifetime out of the motors. Those were all older toyota v6 and i4 motors, I havent seen it done on a 4.0 so not sure how they respond to have dingle berries placed inside them and moved up and down vigorously. No matter what you do, have a shop check the heads, you can check the block for flatness in your garage.

 

I don't think its a flood car. If it were in a flood you would see other signs of it being in a flood, none of which this vehicle has. If it were in flood waters that were high enough to make it into the intake manifold you'd see a lot of water in the oil. OP did say the oil seemed watered down, but water doesn't mix with oil. When draining the oil he would have seen water come out first then oil. There would also be water in other parts of the vehicle (Diffs, Trans, Transfer case, etc..). OP hasn't checked but I doubt there is any water in there. That being said, this is likely a head gasket leak, vehicle sat for awhile and the rings rusted to the cylinder walls. The other option would be the engine ingested water while off-roading, but that would have resulted in bent rods, etc. There are no current signs of that being the issue either. My vote is on a bad head gasket and truck sat.

 

In looking at the newest pics - there are valves stuck open, with no cams applying pressure to hold them that way.

Dunno about the bottom end (does it turn over now?), but those heads need to be checked for bent valves and fubar'd guides.

 

guess he might as well change the valves while he has it all apart! If it were me i would rebuild it completely and have a brand new motor.

 

especially the heads...engine needs a lot of work...

 

The body is fully capable of excepting a 4.7 V8 as well, if he could snag a 50k-90k mile 4.7L motor his son would be riding in style! True dual straight pipes on that motor

 

valve is prob. just stuck. Hope so for his wallet.
Machine shop can tell him what he's facing. I can't see a cracked head but I prob. would miss one right in front of me.

 

Magnaflux. Is that still the process?

 

Magniaflux does not work on aluminum so they use a dye process.

 

If you're going to rebuild this engine, take all the time you need to do it right. Don't get cheapo parts or reuse a part to save a few $$. Yes, a few $$ adds up but it may also cost you 50k - 100k miles of life when it fails. A used engine is $2500 so you're at least looking at that. I bet you can rebuild that engine for for cheaper than $2500 since you're doing most of the labor.

 

@Nickj67

Include https://www.cylinder-heads.com/ on your list of considerations, especially if you find the bottom end to be ok, but would have some significant cost in overhauling the heads. Like if they need machining and a full refresh of parts.

At least contact them for pricing, so you have something to compare and contrast with.

 

Good job so far!
If you decide to take more stuff apart, make sure that you keep it all very organized and clean. Treat the pistons like eggs, piston skirts can crack very easily. Most of the bottom end components are easy to change out and don't really require expensive tooling. However even purchasing the tools required for a simple engine job adds up, and may be halfway towards what a machine shop charges. Add your time in to running around gathering those tools, performing the job(which cuts into family time/drinking time)and you will have to seriously ask yourself which option is better for you in the long run.

As others have said, I suggest taking the heads to a shop and having them cleaned and checked as well as decked. This service should not be very expensive.

Sometimes people make mistakes, like swamping and engine, or filling it with diesel. Then they make more mistakes because they don't have enough knowledge about how things work, like pouring something down the plug holes hoping it will fix the problem. People do weird stuff. You may never figure out the real story.

 

That’s good to know! How far apart dose it (block/heads) have to be apart to take to a shop we talking all the way or what ??