Crank won’t turn

Ha ha. Actually that is how math works. I didn't think it was a straight 1:1 ratio of increasing the lever arm to increasing the applied torque. My mistake.

 

Maybe I missed this suggestion, as I didn't re-read the whole thread. But here goes.

Pry the crankshaft front to back. If you get at least a few thou' of end play, then the main bearings aren't seized.

Gently pry all the connecting rods front to back on the crankshaft. Again, you should be able to feel / see at least a bit of end play on each one.

Report your findings.

 

I somehow missed post 13 and the oil application, but read

Missing the emphasis on 'fill' that had been recommended.

So I said

So both of you are correct with

My bad.

I do agree with the 'fill it' method though.

While a new engine may be in order here, the curious want to know what the bind is! Mechanical damage, or corrosion.

@Nickj67 I believe you said you towed it home in neutral (manual trans). Can you tell if the clutch moves, or did you just get it in neutral with the shifter?

Is it still in neutral? If not, put it in neutral and try turning again.

 

The cylinders would be full and depending on where the Piston is in the cylinder, they will be submerged. There may be a small air pocket, "above," the level of the spark plug holes. If the Piston is to high, there won't be enough clearance for the oil to submerge the Piston as it seeks it's own level.
The weight of the oil itself and capillary action will get some up to the rest i would think.

 

Subed for an outcome......................................

 

I've seen a few seized engines, never one that would not move (at all) after the MMO treatment.

Not saying they were all perfectly good engines after that, I'm thinking it's normal to be an oil burner afterwards BUT have seen them be fine.

I'm afraid he may have called it himself in his first post.

 

This is how I hear all the OP's responses in this thread now.

Sub'd for outcome.

 

Maybe,and maybe the crank bolt will snap off if the engine is frozen.

 

At this point why bother,just pull the engine since its froze anyway.

 

The seller knew darn well the engine was froze.But since the O.P says he only paid $800 for the truck,its still worth putting a new motor in.

 

@Clearwater Bill I believe you said you towed it home in neutral (manual trans). Can you tell if the clutch moves, or did you just get it in neutral with the shifter?

Yes its a manual trans. I rolled the truck forward and put it in gear and she stoped so I’d say the clutch is good.?.

i don’t think this truck is a flood truck. I’ve seen/ worked on them before. I agree this kid had to know the motor was bad then again maybe not he seemed like he knows nothing about cars.he seemed like the kind that spent more on bad habits then truck maintenance. He lived in a trailer park and the area didn’t seem that good. ( I’m not being negative about where he lived).my guess is he made someone mad and the put something in his truck that shouldn’t be there. His dad told me he was worried someone put sugar in his gas tank. His dad said he thought his son took the tank out but was sure. When I got the truck all the cables where unhook from the starter.

 

Oh man. Sounds like you bought an $800 hornet nest to me.

 

Here are some other pics. The timing chain. My breaker bar set up. The bottom inside of the oil pan and the last bit of oil in the pan when I took it off

 

If you still have any, send out the oil for analysis...might give you some idea of what's happening..

And, you need a beefier bar

 

There is a chance then someone (or the kid) did switch out his oil with......something not oil.

Heck, pull a bearing cap. If it's wiped out, mystery solved.

Edit: It's sooo clean inside that engine I'm kind of incredulous the kid changed oil that religiously. I mean it looks like every Sunday he changed it. Suspicious if he did add moonshine. (Turpentine)

 

I’m not sure how to pull that cap.what do you guys think the next step is? Fill the cylinder with oil? Pull the head? Or... keep in mind this motor is still in the truck. I have a chery picker but my garage space is limited right now. I don’t mind digging in to it to solve this mystery. A used motor my cost from LKQ is $2250. So cheaper is better for me that seems a bit high for a engine.

 

hmm, 4 bolt mains.

 

Not really as long as it was drained and oil pressure built up to the bearings before lighting the fire. Then prob. changing the oil again if it started.


OP didn't you mention not seeing metal in the oil though when you drained it? (don't want to re read all this)

That would kind of rule out all the bearings being wiped out.

Man, I don't know what happened to this poor thing. Like you, I don't think flood though. The interior would stink.......and you would see debris all over the undercarriage. I've been under quite a few of those too. They're easy to spot underneath.

 

I didn’t see any metal in the oil. Just what I say as watered down or a bit runny for oil. I agree with the flood thing interior is clean well clean as no water damage and the undercarriage doesn’t have any signs of water ie debrie or water lines from sitting in water. I just did a car that had a water leak (back glass wasn’t sealed right) car smelled bad really bad! Pulled the interior had mold under the carpet it was bad. This truck doesn’t show any signs of water damage interior or exterior.