Crap battery or is something wrong with my Taco?

Yup.

Things that worked 30 years ago no longer work safely today.

And they didn't always work 30 years ago. Some alternators needed the battery connected to maintain the field.

 

My$.02 I believe the OEM battery to be good, mine has laster for a longtime and has been bounced around plenty, and a handful of full nights with the push button dome light On. still has never given any signs of low crank amps. If you look at the top of the battery it has a Charge light.

 

That's just a hydrometer and it only shows the status of one cell.
There are 6 cells in the battery.

It's reasonably accurate with a healthy battery, but as it ages, one or more cells can go bad without showing a bad indication on that one.

 

What was the temperature like? When it happened to us it was freezing.

 

That was your problem.

The cold concrete froze the electrolyte, the sulfuric acid dropped out of solution, and sulfated the cells.

 

It's a poor/loose connection at your battery terminals. Lead post type batteries are infamous for this. Wire-brush the posts, and then use some emery cloth to smooth out the gouges. Do the same (as best you can) for the clamps.
Concrete does not kill batteries, letting a lead-acid battery sit for extended periods without a charging cycle kills them.

 

I have no idea what you said, but I understood not to set them down when its cold

 

I said "you broke it"

 

Wasn't me! Our retarded RTO was to blame

 

"Typical" life for a battery is about 5 years. Had this happen to my Mazda: In the morning, started on first crank as usual. In the afternoon, heard a click then nothing.