Critique my suspension plan

I don't have the experience re: lift heights etc. to say - this is my 1st truck; I have had it for 2yr and am just getting to the suspension work.

I would replace the ball joints for sure but I would do the UCA if I could at all afford to; it goes back to the fact that these parts, in whole, have 72K miles of wear on them and even the metal gets stressed/looses rigidity over time. New UCA would be more rigid/stiffer and hold up for the life of the new suspension.
Worn control arms put more stress on other suspension components and could result in excessive or un/even wear.

The suspension + all its components eg. control arms, sway bars, shocks, springs, shock mounts, etc - all work together to help balance the vehicle load/drive smoothly. Just like your legs act as a suspension for your body - if one part is weak/damaged - say your knees - then the rest of the body gets taxed more/takes extra load/stress and is more prone to failure. [sorry that is the best analogy i can come up with before afternoon coffee ]

If everything has been replaced, you should be worry free for another 75K miles or such -

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-torque-spec-guide.318116/


Here are the diagrams of the suspension - blown up/taken apart -

Some parts are marked 'do not reuse' - some are not though - eg. the UCA bushings are marked this way but the ball joints are not; I would replace all three.

I plan on going thru this and locating all of those plastic/rubber/polyurethane parts and replacing everything I can along those lines.

I TacoWorld - so much information, so easily available!

 

I would seriously consider getting the needle bearing swapped out while you're doing your lift. For a lot of the same reasons @amyracecar suggested, the needle bearing will likely go out one way or the other. Hell, they go out on trucks without a lift lol.

I'm sure most other folks on here will agree it's alot easier/cheaper to change out when you already have the wheels & suspension off.

Other than that, I'd say your lift sounds like a good way to go. I run 5100's all around w/ a bed cap and it's been a great experience on & off road. In hindsight, I wish I'd gone w/ the 6112/5160 combo but this set up works for me for now. I'll prob throw some 3rd Gen Fox Pros on my truck later on.

 

So finalized my plan:
-6112’s set to 2” of lift, 600 lb standard coil, preassembled
-5160’s
-Icon RXT Option 1

I may take the advice to install the ECGS bushing. And may replace the ball joints. Will inspect before I order materials.

Planning to order from Wheeler’s once the Billies come off back order in March hopefully.

 

Do the ECGS bushing, 1000% do it. You'll end up needing to do the ball joints eventually, I'd recommend getting them done while you're already in there!

 

For some reason I’m having trouble finding videos where just the ball joints are replaced.

 

6112 and 5160 is a great combo. thats what i run. 600lbs coil.

the ECGS isnt a issue for me. i been running this lift for 30k miles at 3" front lift.

UCA is fine stock. no aftermarket is needed. but if you do want to put a new one, JBA is a budget friendly one that will last quiet a while.

 

When you were researching aftermarket UCAs did they all seem to come with ball joints already pressed in?

 

The SPC ball joint bolts on. The factory are pressed in but I believe most just replace the entire UCA instead of pressing a new ball joint into them.

 

Yeah if I bought UCAs I want to avoid any assembly.

 

From my experience with sports cars - most ppl replace the whole control arm but you can replace just the ball joint BUT you need a press to press out the old one/in the new one - it is a bitch, I did it once and now I will just replace the whole control arms..

@tacoman45 Thanks for the heads up on the needle bearing - I am maybe 6-8 months behind OP on the remove/replace suspension and only want to do this/take it all apart once!

 

Ordered the whole ECGS kit including the bearing puller and two install tools with new seal. Will pass the tools along to whomever does it next.

 

I’m very much on the fence about getting aftermarket UCAs with new ball joints…

 

You can always take the old UCAs and the new ball joints [eg. you get all the parts] to your favorite shop and have them just do that bit of labour for you @ their hourly rate - should be a hr or less with the correct tools.

 

Here’s the thing, I’m not going through the ass-painery of pulling back the fender liners and getting those UCA bolts out unless I’m putting in new UCAs…

 

I hear you and I am not looking forward to this major surgery mine.

gotta choose the battles you want to fight -

I am not sure you will be able to press them out/in when the arms are in place - if that is what you are kinda saying..
There was some serious ass-painery in pressing them out/in even with the part completely out of the car.

Wait a few more months, save up the extra $$ and get the new UCA ?

 

With that mileage I don’t know why you wouldn’t do UCA and ECGS bushing. Also some durobumps. What size tires you plan on? Another thing to consider with UCA

 

EXACTLY!

Your stock suspension is shot or very close to being - and re/using any parts of it, will cause them to fail - faster - and you gonna have to take it all apart, again - which you do not want to do - I promise you that..

I got 60K on mine and it feels like crap to drive - so soft and squishy, like a boat almost - suxxx

 

Can afford the UCAs, just don’t need them based on the lift height.

 

Oh I don’t need convincing, I’ve already ordered the ECGS bushing kit. And agree I should replace the UCA ball joints. I’m just trying to figure out if I can replace just the ball joints easily or would be better off buying aftermarket UCAs with new ball joints already assembled. As long as the BJs are pressed into the UCAs that’s the only pressing right?