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Cruise Control inop... HELP!!!

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas' started by mmcmahan2206, Jun 18, 2012.

  1. Jun 18, 2012 at 9:13 PM
    #1
    mmcmahan2206

    mmcmahan2206 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Cruise Control INOP... HELP!!!
    Anyone having trouble with their cruise control? I used to be able to just push the cruise button, which would get the cruise light to illuminate, and if it wouldn't set when I pushed down to set it, I would just pull up on the clutch since it sags slightly and doesn't always allow the switch to engage. That wasn't a big deal, and nothing to complain about.
    BUT NOW, my cruise control completely is inoperative. When I push the on/off button, the cruise light doesn't even illuminate now. I've checked all fuses, which all are good, and I'm tempted to check all wires, relay, and the switch itself.

    Does anyone have any advise before I start tearing into things?!?
     
  2. Jun 19, 2012 at 3:31 PM
    #2
    mmcmahan2206

    mmcmahan2206 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    00 Tacoma SR5 TRD 3.4L
    6" FabTech suspension 3" body lift, 35x12.50R15 BFG AT T/A KO tires, Mickey Thompson Sidebiter wheels, 4:88 front and rear gears, e-locker, "grey wire mod," Hella driving lights retroed to 55w 8000K HIDs, custom grill, Downey chrome air intake w/ AEM filter, AirAid throttle body spacer, Flowmaster exhaust, Alpine audio w/ 12" RF sub, racing bucket seats, black powdercoated toolbox, smoked out black taillights, black headlamps and corners, red LED interior lights, sway bar removed, rear shock relocation, u-bolt flip mod, 01 center console, Relentless Fab front plate bumper, LED fog lights.
    Has anyone else ran into this same problem, or am I the only one here?
     
  3. Jun 19, 2012 at 7:24 PM
    #3
    Steve in Omaha

    Steve in Omaha Member

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    Its acting like the control switch might be the problem. The "Cruise Light" will stay on (on my taco) even if the clutch is pressed. Here is the install instructions for the cruise control with the pin info http://oem-auto-accessory.com/cruise/2009tacoma%2Cm.pdf When I have read out one of the switches, its digital, you only get an ohm reading from the switch. To turn it on, XXX ohms, set speed, XXX ohms, etc. Hope this helps.
     
  4. Jun 20, 2012 at 10:00 PM
    #4
    mmcmahan2206

    mmcmahan2206 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    McCall, Idaho
    Vehicle:
    00 Tacoma SR5 TRD 3.4L
    6" FabTech suspension 3" body lift, 35x12.50R15 BFG AT T/A KO tires, Mickey Thompson Sidebiter wheels, 4:88 front and rear gears, e-locker, "grey wire mod," Hella driving lights retroed to 55w 8000K HIDs, custom grill, Downey chrome air intake w/ AEM filter, AirAid throttle body spacer, Flowmaster exhaust, Alpine audio w/ 12" RF sub, racing bucket seats, black powdercoated toolbox, smoked out black taillights, black headlamps and corners, red LED interior lights, sway bar removed, rear shock relocation, u-bolt flip mod, 01 center console, Relentless Fab front plate bumper, LED fog lights.
    I think it's the switch, too (and REALLY hoping it's not the CCM). But I don't really feel like tearing apart the steering wheel to test the switch! I've gone thru and made sure that the brake switch and clutch switch weren't a part of this issue, and also checked the ground, and all is good. So it's kinda starting to look like it's either the Cruise Control Module or the switch itself. FML... :mad:
    I'll keep digging, and hopefully figure this out... But anyone that can post any helpful info would be greatly appreciated!
     
  5. Aug 16, 2012 at 10:49 AM
    #5
    mmcmahan2206

    mmcmahan2206 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    00 Tacoma SR5 TRD 3.4L
    6" FabTech suspension 3" body lift, 35x12.50R15 BFG AT T/A KO tires, Mickey Thompson Sidebiter wheels, 4:88 front and rear gears, e-locker, "grey wire mod," Hella driving lights retroed to 55w 8000K HIDs, custom grill, Downey chrome air intake w/ AEM filter, AirAid throttle body spacer, Flowmaster exhaust, Alpine audio w/ 12" RF sub, racing bucket seats, black powdercoated toolbox, smoked out black taillights, black headlamps and corners, red LED interior lights, sway bar removed, rear shock relocation, u-bolt flip mod, 01 center console, Relentless Fab front plate bumper, LED fog lights.
    Well... the cruise control isn't working as we know, but now the horn wont work and my airbag light came on. Looks like a clock spring (or "spiral cable" as Toyota calls it). Just ordered one from the dealer (which I've seen used ones go for $50 to $75), and my cost is at $221.58! :eek: Dang, these things are expensive! Hope it takes care of the problem! :eek:
     
  6. Aug 16, 2012 at 7:06 PM
    #6
    nswsparky

    nswsparky Well-Known Member

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    D44, SAS, 3 link coilovers, ARB's, Ford 8.8, Atlas 4 speed, cutting brakes.
    check the e-brake if it does not go in all the way it will make the cruse inoperable.
     
  7. Aug 17, 2012 at 6:20 AM
    #7
    mmcmahan2206

    mmcmahan2206 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    6" FabTech suspension 3" body lift, 35x12.50R15 BFG AT T/A KO tires, Mickey Thompson Sidebiter wheels, 4:88 front and rear gears, e-locker, "grey wire mod," Hella driving lights retroed to 55w 8000K HIDs, custom grill, Downey chrome air intake w/ AEM filter, AirAid throttle body spacer, Flowmaster exhaust, Alpine audio w/ 12" RF sub, racing bucket seats, black powdercoated toolbox, smoked out black taillights, black headlamps and corners, red LED interior lights, sway bar removed, rear shock relocation, u-bolt flip mod, 01 center console, Relentless Fab front plate bumper, LED fog lights.
    True... but it wouldn't cause my airbag light to come on and horn to stop working. And the "BRAKE" light would come on as soon as any contact was made, which it is not, so I think my e-brake is out of the question on this one. Thanks, tho!
     
  8. Aug 20, 2012 at 8:48 PM
    #8
    mmcmahan2206

    mmcmahan2206 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Vehicle:
    00 Tacoma SR5 TRD 3.4L
    6" FabTech suspension 3" body lift, 35x12.50R15 BFG AT T/A KO tires, Mickey Thompson Sidebiter wheels, 4:88 front and rear gears, e-locker, "grey wire mod," Hella driving lights retroed to 55w 8000K HIDs, custom grill, Downey chrome air intake w/ AEM filter, AirAid throttle body spacer, Flowmaster exhaust, Alpine audio w/ 12" RF sub, racing bucket seats, black powdercoated toolbox, smoked out black taillights, black headlamps and corners, red LED interior lights, sway bar removed, rear shock relocation, u-bolt flip mod, 01 center console, Relentless Fab front plate bumper, LED fog lights.
    Yup! It was the Clock Sring/Spiral Cable that was causing the problems! I finally have a working horn, the airbag light isn't illuminated anymore, and (most importantly) the cruise contol works again!!! :D The install wasn't bad at all either! It probably took me about a half hour from start to finish. This is a pic of it fully uninstalled and torn apart:
    [​IMG]
     
  9. Aug 21, 2012 at 7:00 AM
    #9
    skytower

    skytower Well-Known Member

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    Hitch and wiring, aux back-up light, rear strobe lights, radio and underseat sub.
    For the record: Brake switch, clutch switch, cruise switch, clock spring need to be checked when there is a cruise problem.
    FYI, next time you have a problem, list everyting that is going on. By not telling us your airbag light was on and the horn didn't work, we had to guess. Those symptoms pinpoint the clockspring as the culprit.
     
  10. Aug 21, 2012 at 7:09 AM
    #10
    mmcmahan2206

    mmcmahan2206 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    6" FabTech suspension 3" body lift, 35x12.50R15 BFG AT T/A KO tires, Mickey Thompson Sidebiter wheels, 4:88 front and rear gears, e-locker, "grey wire mod," Hella driving lights retroed to 55w 8000K HIDs, custom grill, Downey chrome air intake w/ AEM filter, AirAid throttle body spacer, Flowmaster exhaust, Alpine audio w/ 12" RF sub, racing bucket seats, black powdercoated toolbox, smoked out black taillights, black headlamps and corners, red LED interior lights, sway bar removed, rear shock relocation, u-bolt flip mod, 01 center console, Relentless Fab front plate bumper, LED fog lights.
    Well I listed the problem as it happened. At first, it was only the cruise control. No other issues were there... yet. THEN the horn and the airbaglight came on, and that made it a no brainer! So I listed everything that was going on and did tell all symptoms. Pretty easy to diag once the horn became inop and airbag light came on! Thanks, tho!
     
  11. Nov 23, 2012 at 4:15 PM
    #11
    undysworld

    undysworld Member

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    I need help.

    I was off-road in my 2002 Tacoma tonight, and I hit the cruise control lever with my leg. It went 'snap', and now the cruise won't engage. (I know it's a dumb mistake to have made, but I can't feel my leg due to an old diving accident.)

    The green CRUISE light lights up, but it won't actually turn on. I need to disassemble the steering wheel and see what I've broken.

    I've been searching, but I've not found the answer yet. I'll keep searching, but if anybody out here can help, it'd be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Paul
     
  12. Nov 23, 2012 at 10:40 PM
    #12
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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    So .... you broke the cruise lever with your leg and now the CC doesn't work.
    What is your question? Replace the broken part.
     
  13. Nov 23, 2012 at 11:11 PM
    #13
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    He's posted a couple of times... he needs instruction on how to get to the cruise stalk to replace it.

    I was looking at some drawings on the 99 and it looks like it's on the fixed part of the column by the ignition switch, but I have a 2nd Gen and I can't find an assembly drawing that's clear enough to offer him any help.
     
  14. Nov 24, 2012 at 4:59 AM
    #14
    undysworld

    undysworld Member

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    Rick,

    Sorry, I guess I wasn't too clear on my question. How do I get to that broken switch to replace it, without destroying everything to get to it?

    Rich,

    Thanks, I do need help in figuring out how to get to the broken switch to replace it. I tried several times to figure out how to download the manual, but whatever link existed seems to be gone. I've managed to find a thread which mentioned removing 2 screws, so maybe that's all there is to it.

    I'm not entirely mechanically-stupid, I've done a full frame-off restore on my CJ-5. But I'm apprehensive about getting into the air-bag. Hell, my first car didn't even have seat belts.

    I'm pretty sure I can get to it by myself, and then fix whatever plastic tabs and slots broke when I did something stupid. But I was hoping someone here might have boldly gone before, and that I could learn from those wiser than I. Any help will be most appreciated.
     
  15. Nov 24, 2012 at 7:35 AM
    #15
    skytower

    skytower Well-Known Member

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    Hitch and wiring, aux back-up light, rear strobe lights, radio and underseat sub.
    Disconnect negative battery cable, wait 15 min., push the two side covers in(one has the cc stalk coming out of it), remove two torx screws, remove airbag. The cc stalk has a couple screws and a connector. $100ish online toyotapartscheap.com, or I think there was a link on here for Camelback. They were cheap too.

    Do not allow anything to touch the airbag connector!
     
  16. Nov 24, 2012 at 9:12 AM
    #16
    undysworld

    undysworld Member

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    Thanks very much Skytower!
    Paul
     
  17. Nov 24, 2012 at 4:21 PM
    #17
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    That's true for the 2nd Gen... is his 99 the same with the stalk on the wheel itself? The parts diagram appears that it is on the column itself near the ignition switch.
     
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