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Cs144 Alternator Questions

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by austinmtb, Nov 29, 2020.

  1. Dec 4, 2020 at 10:00 AM
    #21
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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  2. Dec 5, 2020 at 4:18 PM
    #22
    austinmtb

    austinmtb [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Digiratus[QUOTED] likes this.
  3. Dec 7, 2020 at 11:18 AM
    #23
    austinmtb

    austinmtb [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I got the alternator and harness adapter ordered so I should be able to get this project going sometime next week.

    What did you guys do for a fuse? I believe the factory one in the fuse block is capable of handling 80 amps so that will of course not work.
     
  4. Dec 7, 2020 at 11:24 AM
    #24
    Digiratus

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    I am running a 150 amp circuit breaker in line between the alt and the battery.
     
    austinmtb[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  5. Dec 7, 2020 at 3:06 PM
    #25
    treyus30

    treyus30 cntl-y

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    That and 3 washers. Been running almost 3 years, 0 issues... except that one time I shorted my multimeter probes on the back of it. Didn't change the fuse, and it's never blown.....then again I also ran 1/0 gauge audio wire in parallel the original wire to it and didn't fuse/breaker it
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2020
  6. Dec 14, 2020 at 10:41 AM
    #26
    austinmtb

    austinmtb [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for all the info guys. The install went smoothly and the alternator is working great.

    IMG_4745.jpg
     
  7. May 11, 2021 at 2:38 PM
    #27
    Dan8906

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    What did you use for a spacer?
     
  8. May 11, 2021 at 5:07 PM
    #28
    thegame

    thegame Well-Known Member

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    Other than size and it being a little noisier than the stock one, my CS144 has been working great for a few years now.
     
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  9. May 11, 2021 at 5:37 PM
    #29
    det107

    det107 Well-Known Member

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    I used a thick aluminum washer instead of 3 or 4 washers, still in place-
     
    Dan8906[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. May 11, 2021 at 11:12 PM
    #30
    austinmtb

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    I machined a spacer on a lathe.
     
    Dan8906[QUOTED] likes this.
  11. May 12, 2021 at 5:13 AM
    #31
    Dan8906

    Dan8906 Well-Known Member

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    Wanna make another one ?! :D
     
  12. May 12, 2021 at 8:21 AM
    #32
    austinmtb

    austinmtb [OP] Well-Known Member

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    From what I understand, the gap between the alternator and mounting bracket can vary quite a bit. I could make another off of my measurements but there would be no guarantees it would fit right. Although, if you measured your gap with a micrometer I could make one for you.
     
    Dirty Pool and Dan8906[QUOTED] like this.
  13. Apr 23, 2022 at 12:23 PM
    #33
    Shortman5

    Shortman5 Well-Known Member

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    Can anyone explain why some wired a CS144 with just a simple jumper harness and through the fuse box and others wired directly to the battery with a fuse?

    And why people are running the sensor cable to the spot on the alternator that is directly wired to the battery?
     
  14. Apr 23, 2022 at 7:30 PM
    #34
    El Taco Diablo

    El Taco Diablo Professional Pinstriper

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    It's just a simple GM to Toyota harness adapter.

    Some people may just want to wire it themselves without using the (easier) adapter.
     
  15. May 1, 2022 at 3:31 PM
    #35
    Shortman5

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    So nobody has really mentioned much about running this through the stock wiring. I can’t seem to find a fuse that will go into the stock spot that higher amps.

    I’m just so confused.

    I guess this is what so confusing to me. @Blackdawg bypassed the fuse box all together and is running a breaker.

    And I also found a thread where OP had issues running it this way (sense wire to pole / pole to battery)

    The alternator shop in town said it does not matter how you hook it up. 1 wire vs 3 wire it’s the same because it’s internally regulated.

    Then I see a article from Painless that says it’s not the same and 3 wire is better.
     
  16. May 1, 2022 at 3:32 PM
    #36
    Key-Rei

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    That's cheatin'.
     
  17. May 1, 2022 at 4:14 PM
    #37
    Digiratus

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    I don't think it matters. Mine is copied from Monte's setup. Been running that way for a long, long time without problems.
     
  18. May 1, 2022 at 7:18 PM
    #38
    Laxtoy

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    Sounds like I may have had a one-off issue with wiring directly between alternator and battery

    I did a big 3 with 1/0 (likely overkill) at the same time I was setting up for a dual battery setup and bypassed the factory fuse box and ended up overcharging an Odyssey pc1200.

    I went out to show a coworker my “handiwork” and noticed the battery was hot and swelling, really scary, luckily had a second battery waiting to be part of the dual battery setup.

    I’d run the CS-144 with stock wiring for a couple of years with no issue but kept running down my battery with a fridge every time we’d sit in one place for too long.

    I ended up upgrading the factory wiring with 4 awg from the alternator to the factory fuse box and from the fuse box to the battery, no issues after several years.
     
  19. May 1, 2022 at 7:49 PM
    #39
    Shortman5

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    And that’s what I really would want to do. Seems like it would be much cleaner and I spent way too much time trying to find a place for that $40 breaker and still haven’t found a suitable place that won’t trigger my ADD.

    But what I don’t understand is the fusing for a 140 alt with a 120 stock fuse. Unless I’m missing something most people are running it like that?

    From what I’ve seen those fuses are a missive PITA to change out and since I don’t fully understand 12v systems I think it’s best to go with the breaker or maybe a high amp, in line blade fuse in the end
     
  20. May 1, 2022 at 7:57 PM
    #40
    Digiratus

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    Remember, the purpose of the fuse/circuit breaker is to protect the wire. Base the size on the gauge and length of the run.
     
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