Custom vehicle harnesses made to order

I don't think you can do selective yellow, but my plan as it stands is using 2 12" stage series light bars in amber (since they are available in SAE fog pattern) and making them effectively a 30" light bar to put into the stealth light bar bracket. Just food for thought, I may be way off on it being a good idea But I am willing to bet you could fit 5 or 6 SSC2s in there with a little fabrication?

 

I considered this as well, it would probably be a lot less work. But part of me likes the uncharted waters. I may well put them into the valance still as it's cheaper than a bumper to return to stock.

 

@907rx7 another iteration:

DPDT switch selects white - off -amber
When white is selected on DPDT they turn ON when Low beams are selected.
Off- no FOGS
Amber = OEM.
Edit: Tapped the Low so ON with LOW & HIGH beam. DPDT would select OEM-OFF-ADDED @ Low Beam.

 

I totally get that. Even the mods I copy I try to put my own spin on. Looking forward to what you come up with And just FYI, I am going to complete the amber set up with lights in the grille that will serve as amber headlights of sorts. So 2 12” and 2 6”. Will maybe use them once a year, but oh well

 

Dave, I love all of the cool projects that you have been doing and how clean everything turns out. I'm getting ready to install my switchpros, but I don't like the idea of using wire taps if I can avoid them. I was wondering if would you be willing to make a couple T-harnesses to replace the ugly wire taps for the trigger wires on my switchpros?

I'm open to other ideas but according to this Youtube video it looks like it would be pretty straight forward to make a T-harness to signal the switchpros light blue (ignition) wire off of this lime green wire, located in the drivers foot well.


It also looks like you could make another T-harness to signal both the Pink (high beams) and White (side marker) wires off of the LED headlight wire.



Is this something you would be interested in trying? Would it be difficult to source the connectors? What are your thoughts?

 

I can do (and have done) a T off the 6 pin MX-150, that's no problemo. I typically do a 3 pin output, ground, drl, parking light, though I could do 4 and add high beam (btw, I think you have white and pink reversed, at least with the halogen harness pink on driver side is parking light, solid white is high beam) or just do 3 with parking light and high beam, no drl. The reason for the 3 is then you can add grille lights and be ready for the rapture

But in the driver kick, I don't have those connectors and I believe male is unobtanium as it's not manufactured? I know there has been chatter but I don't think we've nailed that one.

I just tap ignition, parking light and my aux trigger (dome) from an A pillar tap made by DSIM which is (sadly) no longer obtainable either (sigh.)

I don't know if there's a single connector which can get all 3 of the desired signals but maybe the C10 or whatever behind the instrument panel if it carries the stalk signals which include high beam trigger? I assume it'd have parking light and ignition.

I think the easiest way is really just add a fuse to the main fuse box, then no need to push the trigger wire through the firewall, tie it to INJ and you're good enough.

@ktbell444 what did you finally do for your ignition trigger wire?

FWIW, my trigger is dome because I don't really live in a location where I ever get to turn my high beams on so I figured aux lighting off the dome would be ideal, but I could also see firing off the cargo as well. I guess I might do high beams more if I only had a light to turn on with them.

My switchpros has 0/8 circuits used right now, but it was fun to put it in.

 

There's a C11 T already available that has Parking, Low Beam & High Beam, but all are (-). You need to configure the SwitchPro to use a negative input trigger.
IGN fused source could be the towing battery charger circuit pin #2

 

Yeah, I think if going to the fuse or relay box to tap IGN then I'd just T off the MX-150 for triggers, you get +'s that way and no need to go through the firewall.

Side thought, does the alternator harness have an ignition signal on it? At least on the Tundra that's an easy connector to get (female) but not sure if the mating male is an option. Kind of a ridiculous spot to T as well...

 

Nope, it's a LIN (CAN-BUS) signal.

 

Windshield washer fluid reservoir connector? (now I'm really smoking something good right?)
Security horn?
Fan?
Fog light intercept?
Truly nothing at all is ignition switched +12v in a clean sealed connector outside of the fuse box?

 

None that I'm aware of man...

 

Fuse box under the hood was constantly energized, so I went with the blank fuse slot in the cab labeled USB. If you use a blank slot, the design of the add-a-fuse requires a fuse to be in both slots in order for the connection to reach the 2nd tap. Stupid design, but it had me scratching my head for a minute because I knew I was getting ignition power with my DMM but I was getting nothing when I put the AAF in.

Maybe one day I can have a tap contained within the under hood fuse box itself. But I wanted my SP install done. Lol

 

I’m a little confused which spot in the fuse box you chose. Seems like most other people are using INJ add a fuse method, but if there is a free spot that give the same results it seems like a good idea.
Would you mind posting a picture of your fuse box?

 

All you had to do was switch the orientation.

 

I still want a fused connection because all I need is for that wire to short out while my girlfriend is driving my truck and her see a puff of smoke because the wire became a fuse and cause her to freak out and drive the truck into some pond somewhere.

I used the blank slot because it was easier to get my probes in there to test the circuit and I didn't have to pull a fuse first. If it wasn't ignition, I would have began pulling fuses and checking.

 

Just needed one on top slot since the original circuit is not available. Probe the side that has the juice with IGN, that would be the common for the add-a-fuse:

 

That's exactly what I tried to do, didn't work. I assume that it uses a leg from the original fuse to jump across to feed the 2nd fuse, hence why I said it was a dumb design. Could be the brand? Purchased at advance auto.

 

For the in cab fuse box (at least for me) it was tricky to reverse orientation due to space constraints. I ultimately never really felt comfortable with add a fuse there. I do like my under cupholder ignition switch off poutlet1 (tiny 22 gauge wire anyway, might as well make it a trigger for something beefy).

I think the confusion arises from @ktbell using the in cab fuse box and you thinking about the engine bay fuse box?

If anyone is curious, the poutlet1 (assuming you have it) female spades fit nicely on a relay coil male spade, just add some heat shrink and cannibalize your 12 gauge tow controller +12v and add your high current relay and you have beefy ignition switched power for various uses.

 

I'll also add that I'm not a fan off add a fuses with the in cab fuse box. Between the mini format, and the fuse hanging upside down I have had both of mine work themselves loose enough to lose power over the course of normal driving. Eventually I'll add an accessory fuse block in cab.

 

After talking to you guys I think this is probably the best way to go. I’ll run a Low Profile Mini fuse tap off the INJ fuse for the ignition. @daveeasa, would you be willing to make me a T off the LED Headlight MX-150 for the triggers? We can PM the details if you’re interested.