CV axle dilemma during ecgs bushing install

For those of you who are familiar with the ecgs bushing install process, the part where I had to remove my cv axle went awry today.
I tried the steel rope/hammer method of yanking it out and managed to separate the axle into two parts. It came apart at the boot. I know its designed to come apart there, but aside from most likely having to replace the boot, are there any signs of trouble I should look for?
Im going to try to get it apart again on Friday or Saturday to investigate whether the boot is actually damaged or just needs a new clamp.

as an aside: how the fudge do you get that axle out??? I did everything I saw in all the videos I could find and it was going nowhere.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I used 2 tie rod removal pickle forks. One wedged in to provide a pivot. The other was the “lever”. Forming a cross. Held the lever in against the axle indent(s). Smacked the “lever” with a 3 pound hammer. Popped right out.

 

Long screw driver into dents on the CV housing where it has little cutouts, whacked with same 3 pound hammer as above, popped out easier than I would have thought. As an aside, the screw driver in question is large (12" long) and was used to pry on something years ago, which broke the flat tip so its thick there, rather than thin. I don't think that matters but thought I'd elaborate. Best of luck.

 

The axle should be perfectly straight as you are trying to remove it from the diff . If the axle is hanging down , its going to apply pressure to the tiny snap ring that holds the axle in place . Keeping the axle straight when you pry is going to collapse the tiny snap ring evenly and the axle will pop rite out . I use some mechanics wire to hold the axle straight while I pry .

Might as well grab a boot kit with some fresh grease and two new clamps . I dont believe you can damage the plunging side . The bearings are held on with snap rings . Should be a matter of cleaning it back up ,burp the boot with fresh grease and set your clamps after the burp

 

thanks for all the suggestions and guidance, gents. Ill give it all another whack on Friday. I can get a boot kit from auto zone locally and hopefully get the damn axle out with some of. your suggestions.
I did try to whack on the notches with a pry bar and 3lb hammer, but I think the pry bar was a bad choice. I need something less curvy and straighter. anyway, thanks again. ill post what happens.

 

I had a hard time getting mine out as well and snapped this pic as a future reference for myself lol. The blade of this screwdriver is wide enough to pop it over the snap ring when turned. this approach took all of 2 seconds and didn’t require a big hammer.



if you’re getting a boot kit you may want to also just get another cv (Napa reman) — use it or return it. I put this one in, rebuilt the original and have it as a spare.

Good luck. Happy turkey day!!!!

 

It’s just not working. I’ve removed the outer section of the axle and all that’s left is the inner portion that inserts into the diff. I’m hitting the notches from below with a punch and 3lb hammer. I tried a twisting pry situation I made from rebar. Nothing. It just sits there. How am I screwing this up!?

 

Gotta be some damage to the tiny snap-ring that holds the axle in place which in turn makes it a nightmare to get the axle out . Seen it many times before . My suggestion .....bigger pry bars and bigger hammers at this point

Edit - try turning the axle in an effort to pry in a different location from where you have been prying . Sometimes turning the axle will help if there is a slight bend in the snap-ring. The pry bar I use to remove axles is 5 feet long . You will be there all day with a punch

 

I’m actually kinda blown away this is a project than anybody advocates a home mechanic go anywhere near. This is a god damned nightmare

 

I’ve been turning it. I just can’t get a good whack at it. Too tight of a space.

 

If you have a helper, use a slide hammer and hook. Only place to rent the correct kit is from advance auto.

 

I am thinking the needle bearing may also be a little trashed .In normal cases , it doesnt take much to collapse the tiny snap ring . Sometimes the groove where that snap ring fits fills up with steel making it difficult for the snap ring to collapse .
Take a step back and re-group , then go at it again . It will come out

 

I got it. What a bear, till it wasn’t and it released rather easily. If life has taught me one thing over and over it’s that in times of turmoil and distress a small temper tantrum helps me to focus and prevail.

 

I’m gonna piss myself. The threaded rod is too short?!?!?!

 

You got the correct tool ?


Below is the ECGS removal and install file in PDF . Bushing needs to be flush

 

I am not trying to poke fun by any means, but this is the funniest thing I've read in a long time.

Post a picture of the threaded rod/tool so we can see what you're working with.

 

It was meant in jest but there is truth to it. I’m out of my depth and am not embarrassed to admit it. Just don’t tell my wife. I used a bolt to replace the rod. It was way too short. I’ve got the bushing in just not 100% sure it’s in all the way. I know too far is bad.

 

Dang OP, sounds like a rough time. For any future readers, I like to use this.

$19 TEKTON 17" Angled End Handled Pry Bar | LSQ42017

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075M94S3P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I lay underneath, slip it between the diff and the axle, and pry like hell. If that doesn't work, rotate the axle a little and try again. It'll eventually work, just takes some ass behind it.

I then use the same bar to put the CV back in. Place the tip in one of the notches on the axle and tap it in with a 3 lb hammer. It's tough getting it past the snap ring, but once that happens, it doesn't take much force to drive it in the rest of the way.

 

Totally DIY'able.

 

In the future, long pry bar (24”+) between diff and CV axle there’s just enough room. Careful not to damage the damage the seal on the diff side. Sometimes you need to whack the axle around a few times with a mallet to “reset” the circlip