CV axle dilemma during ecgs bushing install

If your doing this solo get the cv rope pulled from c4rs.

with a helper, use the slide hammer and a hook that comes in the rental kit from advance auto. (Kit 41) this can be done solo with a large hose clamp/tip tie.

I’ve done 30+ ecgs bushings and never damaged a cv.

Oh and you don’t have to remove the tie rod, just remove the sway bar link if it’s connected. Use a peice of rope to pull the knuckle forward and wedge a 1”x1” board, peice of metal holding the uca atop the top hat.

 

4133604010 is the oem part number for the dust shield you’re talking about if you ever run into the issue again.

 

This is the first I've heard of the c4rs took. Thank you for that

 

Yall have me scared now attempting this. I also need that tool.

 

I just spent 3-4 hours trying to get the CV axle out with no luck. I had to give up to go to work. I tried prying and hammering and didn't budge. Now my arms are jello from laying on my back and working over my head. I will get some more tools to try again but my truck is only 4 months old and I don't want to damage my CV by prying on the wrong part.

 

In my experience the newer the truck, the more of a pain in the ass it is to get out. One time I had to be prying on it while my buddy was using a makeshift swing hammer. Gooood lord that was annoying.

 

2 out of 3 different trucks Ive pulled CVs on were a total PIA. Its pretty much a buddy situation. He can run the CV lasso while you are under there with a big ass prybar.

Below is a random pic I found.. Red is probably the best spot to be prying on. Make sure the prybar is seated all the way into that groove and push in while you pry. Theres not a lot of material to bite on. If the prybar slips and you round those lobes over you've just made it harder on yourself. Also grab some scraps of 2x4, you can rest them between the prybar and the frame to give you a better angle of attack when finding good leverage.

The blue is where you want the CV lasso. Make sure its not pulling right on the boot or you will pop the boot off and have to re-grease it and re-clamp it.

 

Everyone complained about this but I stuck the prybar in those grooves and hammered the back of the prybar with a 4-pounder like 5x and it popped right out. Maybe I’m just lucky or it’s because I had 50k miles already?

edit: also had buddy hold the outer axle so as to keep the inner axle loose in the case. I think what this does is allows the hog ring to compress evenly during hammering instead of the axle weight hanging there causing the hog ring to wedge itself against the housing.

 

I had the same issue last year where I couldn't pry out the CV. I used a jack stand and blocks to try to keep it level and then this screwdriver with some torque via the channel locks worked very well. I stuck the flathead between the CV and the trans and twisted it. The flathead is about 1/2" wide and it slipped right out as I twisted it.

 

So I think right now I'm going to roll the dice and hope I don't actually need the new bushing. I am going to try to install my 5100's/885 tomorrow. If I have the vibration I will go back at it with a slide hammer and axle puller attachment and a buddy (stronger than my wife who was little help the first try).

 

Not something I've tackled on a Tacoma, but if there's a circlip, WHY are people beating the axel stub past it rather than removing it? I've never heard of a [deliberately] sacrificial circlip before.

 

The C clip is attached to the part of the axle that enters the diff. How do you propose you remove the C clip? It's not sacrificial, it's springy. You beat the axle in and out, and when you do, the c clip compresses just enough for the axle to slide in or out.

 

I don't know, I've never done it; I'm asking. I think you have to admit that forcing an axel/bearing past a circlip is... unusual to say the least. Is this actually how it's designed to be done, or is this shade-tree 'get 'er done' methodology?

 

That's exactly how it's designed to be done

 

Pics might help it to make more sense. Heres some from me replacing one on a rebooted axle, new clips come with the Toyota kit


see the shape of the new one on the left. The C shape is where it compresses


sits in this channel


Squeezes down into the groove in the CV as it goes into the diff. Here I used the pliers to pop it into the groove when installing the new one


And that spline part part goes into this hole, so its gotta squeeze itself in. The C clip engages past the splines

 

Great photos. I think my success/struggle of the removal process hinged on understanding how and where this clip was engaging. As you can't see it while removing, rotating the axle to orientate it in different positions seemed to help the process. The one's who banged it out in 5 swings, well, they may have just had it lined up right... or, they just got blessed with superior viking genes!

 

Under the back seat where the factory jack is, there is a J shaped handle for the jack in the bag with the extensions. The handle has a flat pointed tip. I just use that between the CV and the diff/tube and pry the CV out. It usually pops right out. If it's resisting you a lot and has not moved outward more than a half inch or so, rotate the cv while tapping on the end with a rubber or brass hammer to push it back into the housing and start over. It should not require Hulk-strength to remove the CV. If it's putting up a lot of resistance, just rotate it 1/8-1/4 turn at a time.

I used an old CV with the c-clip removed and a ratchet extension to drive the bushing in. Works perfect, if you have a spare floating around.

 

Correct. I've used the same c clip dozens of times in some of our sxs that destroy axles and joints regularly.

 

Thanks, I've got about 450 pics on CV replacement, rebuild, diff seals etc lol so theres more if you ever need them! Rotating to different positions definetly helps. I pried between the inner cup and diff housing and mine came right out, but I did catch a lot of heat from one dude on T4R for doing it this way lol. It worked and didn't damage anything, and as someone mentioned before, that dust shield is replaceable

 

Got it now... I thought we were talking about a circlip... Still seems like a VERY poor design choice.