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CV axle replacement

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas' started by Ninja TRDle, Jul 11, 2013.

  1. Ninja TRDle

    Ninja TRDle [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Bryce
    Utah
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    2inch lift, 14" magnaflow, deck plate mod, K&N air filter
    So I have a 98 4wd and I need to replace the front left cv axle. I've searched other threads to avoid resurrecting an old topic but couldn't find anything. The boot has been torn for a bit and I've already waited too long in replacing it. I though about just a replacement boot but I've decided that this is just more of a "band-aid" fix and I don't want the axle completely seizing up and likely causing more damage. So I looked into it and I was surprised to find that a replacement axle from auto zone was only around $65. Is this a good axle though? I do have a 2" leveling spacer with 32's and I do moderate off-roading. I want something durable but I am newly wed, in college and on a tight budget. Suggestions? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2013
  2. kmok

    kmok Plastidipped ma Hootus!

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    I run Autozone axles and they had a lifetime warranty when I got mine, not sure if they still have the lifetime warranty for them still or not. I tore my first set of cv axles I got from them but my lift is what tore my OEM boots then my Autozone boots. Swapped the cv axles for new ones under their warranty. I've got a few years on the current axles with no problems.

    I'd get a new seal for the differential while you're in there. The seal is right where the axle goes in and you may damage it taking the old axle out then you have to pull the axle again to fix the seal. Happened to me haha.
     
  3. 186000mps

    186000mps ..Slingin' up mud and we're scarying off bunnies..

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  4. Ninja TRDle

    Ninja TRDle [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Great, thanks guys. On autozone's website it says I can only ship it to my home, they don't have it in the store. If i want to do both sides, are they any different or do I just order two? I thought they were specific to which side..?
     
  5. kmok

    kmok Plastidipped ma Hootus!

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    Pretty sure they're not side specific
     
  6. Ninja TRDle

    Ninja TRDle [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I've never done this. How hard/ complicated is it? Special tools?
     
  7. m3bassman

    m3bassman Professional Web Wheeler

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    On the seven seas!
    :popcorn: im in the same boat as you.
    DO NOT DO THE BOOT SLIDE MOD WITH THE HISE CLAMP!! It doesnt work. it is why i am replacing my axles :mad: not from rubbing, but from the mod itself.
     
  8. RelentlessTaco

    RelentlessTaco Custom Tacoma bumpers & more for your offroad toy Vendor

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    Had tons on the Taco's.... new truck is pretty stock
    I've been rocking the Autozone CV on the driver side of my truck for about a year now with no issues. And thats wheeling with 35's on my truck, though I dont get too throttle happy with it.

    The job was total cake for me, between pulling the truck into my shop to pulled out and tools put back away it only took me 45 min.
    Basically jack it up, pull your tire, pull the center cap over the castle nut, remove the castle nut, remove the lower spindle bolts to separate the spindle from the lower control arm, pop the inner CV section out from the diff with a pry bar(oil catch under the diff), slide the new CV into the diff and just reverse the process at this point.
    Only 'specialty' tool you need is a big-ass socket for the castle nut. I forget the size, but I did have to go buy one and a 3/4" drive breaker bar as well as my 1/2" drive set wasnt big enough.
     
  9. kmok

    kmok Plastidipped ma Hootus!

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    It's not difficult to do. It's basically two extra steps along with the cv axle replacement. After removing the old cv axle pull the old seal then press in the new seal and that's it.

    I believe the seal is supposed to be pressed to be flush with the diff housing where the cv axle goes in. You don't need a special tool to press in the seal but I would recommend an seal puller tool. I picked up one from autozone for like $10 or something like that. My seal was corroded to the housing so it was a little more difficult but the seal puller helped a lot.

    The seal puller I got looks like this:
    [​IMG]

    Another thing:
    Make sure you loctite and torque to spec the bolts that hold the spindle and lower ball joints together!
     
  10. Ninja TRDle

    Ninja TRDle [OP] Well-Known Member

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    if i do both axles is that 2 seals, one for each side?
     
  11. kmok

    kmok Plastidipped ma Hootus!

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    Yep, there's one on each side so you will need 2 seals if doing both axles
     
  12. Ninja TRDle

    Ninja TRDle [OP] Well-Known Member

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    '98 Tacoma TRD SR5 4x4
    2inch lift, 14" magnaflow, deck plate mod, K&N air filter
  13. kmok

    kmok Plastidipped ma Hootus!

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    Last edited: Jul 11, 2013
  14. RacerP

    RacerP Well-Known Member

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    I had at one point used the autozone cv's in my truck and they didn't last a year...of course we have a ton of salt on the roads in the winter which could have added to the problem.

    I brought my autozone one's back to the store and got a full refund!

    I decided to have my factory CV's rebuilt with high angle/porsche boots...all in, just a little more expensive than the autozone ones.

    You have a CV rebuilder in your area??? Might be worth looking into.

    And by the way I did NOT do the boots slide mod, on recommendation of the guys who rebuilt them.

    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/265659-just-received-my-high-angle-cv-boots.html
     
  15. wolfgang123

    wolfgang123 Well-Known Member

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    then you did it wrong
     
  16. 1998tacoma4x4

    1998tacoma4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Deaver j59 pack 2.5 SAW coilovers, rear bilstein 5100's. Extened stainless rear brake line, deck plate mod, drop in K&N filter, Kenwood headunit & pioneer speakers, SnugTop Shell.
    So I plan on doing the axle swap here on Monday and my question is where can I get a torque wrench that goes up to 175 foot pounds? All the ones I'm finding max out at 100 or less.
     
  17. mrbeggins

    mrbeggins LOW.LIGHT.WIDE

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    And the giant nut is a 36mm in case you were wondering.... I used a 1/2" impact to remove mine. If you don't have an impact, stick a screw driver (big flat blade) in between the 2 halves of your brake rotor. The slotted part. It'll stop everything from turning once the screwdriver reaches the caliper. Bust it loose with a breaker bar and your good to go
     
  18. 4banger4x4

    4banger4x4 Probably should'nt have done that.

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    i got 150lbs wrench from northerntool. once it maxed out i gave it a few more turns to go up to 180lbs. 2 months and everything is holding tight. if you have manual hubs make sure you know how to get cone washers off, and ive got two diff seals one for each side sitting in my tool box. i didnt realize that ecgs sent there diffs with seals already in them. They are OEM, ill ship them for $20. They cost me 12 each plus tax
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2013
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