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CV's and headlights

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by gulfcoasttroll, Jun 13, 2018.

  1. Jun 13, 2018 at 7:31 AM

    gulfcoasttroll [OP] Well-Known Member

    Feb 7, 2018
    First Name:
    2008 4 dr super white Tacoma TRD
    2.5 suspension lift
    Try not to blister me on asking something that there are multiple posts on. I've gone through a ton of them trying to find the specific answers I am looking for.

    1) I have torn boots on both sides of my truck and a friend of mine that's pretty handy said it's just easier to buy the new CV assembly rather than rebooting and packing with oil (at least a lot cleaner and timely). I don't do any serious wheeling besides getting through some mud to get to a tree stand or to pick up a downed deer in the swamp. My main concern is getting the boots tidied up, so I am not as worried about breaking a cheaper after market CV axle as I don't believe it'll get to that point in my usage.

    Have any of you bought and compared the Cardone remanufactured vs. the Cardone Heavy Duty on rockauto? Are the remanufactured truly yotas?

    If I get the remanufactured ones how do they reimburse you for the core, just put it back on your original form of payment after they receive it, or do they give you store credit?


    2) My original headlights are toast, cracked, yellowed, awful looking, (makes the truck look 10 years older than it is), and I want to just by some of the TYC's of rockauto while I am on ordering the CVs. I know, I know, they aren't going to be as good etc. and I should just have my original lights be re-done. I just want to get some new ones on there and be done with it. I'll put some good bulbs in them and I have an LED bar in my bumper.

    I have a two part question I guess.
    a) What is the difference between the "type 1, w/ sports package" and "type 2, w/o sports package"?
    b) I am going to get CAPA (i know it may just be a marketing gimmic), but does anyone know the difference between the "various manufacturers" and the TYC's that are CAPA, preference?

    Attached Files:

  2. Jun 13, 2018 at 7:43 AM

    blu92in99 I hate everyone, equally

    Aug 8, 2017
    First Name:
    Elk Grove, CA
    2005 Tacoma AC 4WD, TRD-OR
    Ask me...
    No input on the axles, other than the core charge part - yes, they refund the core charge to the method you paid with.

    As far as the headlamps go; "sport package" is the darker chrome bezels, "w/o sport" is the bright chrome bezels. The bulb reflector portion is bright chrome either way.

    "various manufacturers" means you get whatever brand RockAuto can acquire for cheap enough to resale at that listed price and still be profitable to them. If it states a brand, that's the brand you're buying (e.g. TYC).
    gulfcoasttroll [OP] likes this.
  3. Jun 13, 2018 at 7:57 PM
    Mighty Blue Taco

    Mighty Blue Taco Well-Known Member

    Mar 15, 2018
    First Name:
    Billings MT
    2008 Tacoma Electric Blue Pearl DCLB
    I replaced my CV axles with aftermarket ones from Napa. After replacing and driving for a while I noticed front diff fluid leaking. I inspected CV axles made sure they were installed all the way. They were seated all the way. I had to return and replace with oem Toyota axles. Just something to keep in mind. The Toyota axles didn't cost that much more have 80000 miles on them now no problems. As far as the headlights go make sure to seal them. With any aftermarket headlight you always want to silicone around the seal. If you don't they will more then likely collect condensation. Then you will have to take out and resael them learned that the hard way!
  4. Jun 13, 2018 at 8:00 PM

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

    Mar 24, 2015
    First Name:
    Hampton Roads, VA
    4x4 2005 SR5 AC 6MT
    I would recommend CVJ axles for your CVs. You'll pay $455 shipped for two of them, but you'll get $190 back after core refund, a grand total of $255. They only accept OEM axles as a core, and all the axles they send out are OEM rebuild.

    I would either do that, reboot (I've done it and it's not that bad), or buy OEM for the reason that @Mighty Blue Taco said. Leaking at the diff isn't all uncommon.

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