Darn it, stuck bolt, lower front strut

If you unbolt your lower ball joint you could free up some work space and even be able to scoot the CV a little further out of the way

 

Also you said you don't have a big hammer that could be why it wont break loose. You need a small sledge and a punch or an impact. A big hammer/sledge will work wonders.

 

Again, hit it with a can of compressed air ($4 at wallmart or local computer shop). Hold the can upsided down and spray the bolt (get some good ventilation). The metal will contract and break the rust.

Then try the BFH.

 

Dang, I'm just afraid of bending that bracket even more so. But, I suppose it's worth a try. I'll pick up some compressed air while I'm at the store tomorrow.

As I have said several times now, all the hammers have done is BENT my lower strut-mounting bracket. Which is bad. Because now I have to bend it back. And all of this bending fatigues the metal. Which makes it weaker. In a spot that supports a whole lot of weight. So, I'll give the hammer a couple more goes, but not much more. This truck needs to be back in working order before Monday morning. Can't go breaking things I don't need to break.

 

How the hell did your a-arm move up and down if the bolt it that rusted in there? that's crazy.

 

Impact that shit out. Easy

 

Do you read the whole thread?! Can't get a socket in on the bolt-head, for SEVERAL reasons! How can I impact it out if a socket won't physically fit under there? The ONLY thing that fits is a spanner wrench. That's it. I've actually said that at least twice now in this thread.

2nd gens are NOT 1st gens!

Oh my. Thanks for the lack of input, it's awesome! We'll see how it goes this morning. Getting some new sawzall blades in about 30 minutes.

 

Perhaps it didn't move well. I always have one hell of a clunk when hitting a bump on my front-driver's side. This may be the culprit. I'll see once the new suspension is in.

 

Ive gotten impacts in there on 1st gens. Try with an extension, and post some pics of how the CV is in the way. Btw you can always remove the axle...just a 35mm nut IIRC

 

Pop off the hub, remove the nut. Remove the spindle. Tie the axle away. Takes less than 15 minutes. Sorry to have angered you, one thousand apologies to you and the internet gods

 

Do not have 35mm socket or wrench. Cannot do that. Do not have air compressor. Or air tools.

Truck is sitting, non-functional, in my driveway, not able to move at the moment, so no going to the hardware store until my "ride" gets here.

Yes, if I could remove the CV, things would be ALOT easier.

But honestly, if I had air tools, I would've just used an air-chisel against the bolt where the nut goes on and jack-hammered it out in the first place. Just don't have them nor access to them.

 

I have dealt with your same exact problem, the bolt is frozen to the sleeve inside the busing. Sure the bolt will spin, but it is just the sleeve spinning inside the bushing.

Make sure you have the right blade for your saws-all and it also helps to have the angle grinder. I had to take the spark guard off my angle grinder to have room. I just kept cutting everything away, and took both sides of the bolt off.

You are right that you have a problem with bending those tabs, can't keep doing that, luckily I got my frame replaced right after this job and got new LCA's with the frame replacement. If not, you are likely going to need to take those LCA's out, another big job and get those tabs straight and re-enforced with some triangles?

Just go easy. Take your time.

Here is the pic of the carnage in the middle of my job.

 

Have you unbolted the lower ball joint from the spindle yet? If you do, you can swing the spindle and cv to the side to give yourself a little more working room.

 

To clarify, I have never drilled out the bolt you are trying to remove. But I have drilled out bolt on front suspensions before. If you can acces one side of the bolt with a drll, you may be able to drill right through, if your drill bits are long enough. But looking at the pictures again, I see your concern with the cv boot, Can't access one side, and may puncture the boot if you drill through. Tough call All I can say is GOOD LUCK.

 

Hit it with the entire can all at once but be careful not to breath it in. Try to hit just the bolt and nothing else (use a straw). It will work.

 

If the nut spins freely, run it out to where its flush with bolt end & just blast away with BMFH until the sleeve seperates from grommett (since sleeve is froze to bolt, )

 

Did you losten the bolts on the lower arm so it can droop more? Maybe it has too much pressure from the strut pushing on the arm.

 

Ok Dougie, this is your fix, after thinking a bit this is what you need to do get a can or 2 of carb/choke cleaner & get as much of that lube/grease off as you can & the area around the shock mount, get a propane or MAP gas torch & heat the front of that bolt (nut end) & heat the area on the shock eyelett (NOT SHOCK BODY THO" ! ) for obvious reasons, get it good & hot THEN beat it with hammer The idea is to get the rubber inside the shock eyelett to almost melt & there will probably be a flame up or 2 but nothing that'll get out of control

since your changing shocks anyway who cares if gromett is ruined this process will get the bolt/sleeve out & won't melt your cv boot either..

 

If something is stuck, you want to either freeze and contract it, or heat and expand what its stuck in. Why would he heat the bolt and expand the bolt? It will just get stuck even more

Freeze that bish enough and you will be able to pull it out with your fingers (wear some heavy gloves )

 

So, how's it going Doug?