Darton Sleeves

I just need $10,000 and Ill be good to go with a sleeved fully built 1gr

 

In all honesty, unless someone has the cash to dish out at once, you can start small, and do it all in stages. Unless you get the stroker crank. Then you would want pistons at the same time since those change between stock stroke and the 105mm stroke.

But group buy pricing for rods - $600. Pistons: between $900-1200 if coated. ARP head studs: ~$290 Cometic Head gaskets: ~$220. Then of course bearings. That gets you base forged. Upgrade from there as time sees fit. Doesn't hurt the bank account as much, all at ine time.

 

I wouldnt do it unless I got sleeves

 

I think that Gadget sleeved engine (the first 1GR sleeved by Darton) is still for sale? With crank, cams, rods, pistons. Cheaper that $10k too.

 

yes, thats the plan! ill be sure to check for that in the mean time. ugh this place is evil for my wallet. im gonna have to put this forge build on the back burner tho once i pick up the engine. need to finish getting the turbo done first.

 

question. under load and operation temp changes how do the sleeves and block expansion interact? is it critical that the block and sleeves have the exact same expansion properties? I only mention it since we looked into it on my dads evo and it seemed like it would open up a can of worms longevity wise if we didn't get it perfect. Tor, did darton ever mention that? PS I like the cowboy hat on the guy working on your block!!! haha awesome

 

This is the best info I could find, without calling and asking directly.

http://www.dartonsleeves.com/tech_ctr.htm

I am going by a little faith in this, but I have spoken with Jim at Darton East many many times. Never once did he mention any concerns about the differening materials and their respective expansion rates. By those tech atricles, they know their metalllurgy properties well. So in that, I have faith that they took that into concideration whilst developing the wet sleeves for aluminum blocks.

It does make me want to ask Jim, the next time I speak with him though. So thank you for bringing that up Sconnie, I will.

 

Gotcha, let me know if or when you ask him! Sorry, I hope you aren't second guessing it now... I'm sure it'll be fine lol

Are yours wet sleeves then? Dont remember what you said... Nice link!

I don't have much knowledge on the subject other than the guys who built our track car mentioned it as a potential problem.

These are the guys im talking about
http://www.dbptuning.com/cat/

here is an old old dyno run of dads car (sound is goofy...)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a085oaJD5Bc

 

My apologies. I never did mention which style that they were. But yes, they are wet sleeves. Completely replace the whole factory cylinder.

I remember you posting up the info before, but what were the #'s that that car made? I am going to have to go and watch that road course video again. Gets me all excited.

 

No need to apologize! Seems like the better option would be to go wet.

in the video posted just above it put down roughly 390whp and roughly the same torque if i remember correctly. Now we are running high 20's psi and somewhere just over 500whp, i've only seen the dyno sheets once and cant remember what the numbers were exactly. (id go get the sheets to look at but they are back in wisconsin 1k miles away )

Here's the video you mentioned above
We have since changed our final drive ratio to a low 4.00 because our 5th was severly limited on the straights and the gear per corner wasnt matched well. now we hit 160+ no problems and the corner gears are better matched.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeyXGr9-KeE

I should watch our videos more often, got a quarter chub now!!!!!!!

 

of you when you finally get your truck to the track!!!!!

 

DoubllD, I had Jim at Darton East, source some main studs that would fit the requirements, through ARP.

They measured the factory ones, cross-referenced to the closest thing, then did the tricky part. Cutting them down to length and or drilling and re-tapping the holes to match.

I am not exactly certain on what they had to do, as I was told by LCE long ago, that our OEM main bolts are uncommon to match something from ARP, and that some modification would be necessary.

I just told Jim, I need them, do what it takes.

 

Sweet does gadget still have that engine for sale an how can I get ahold of him if he does

 

Yes he does. I believe for a little over $6k. Call URD, and enter extension #3. Shoot, you could probably head over to his shop and check it out yourself.

 

Lololoolol.

Is all i gotta say.

 

Lol what toon?

 

Tor do you have a number or part number I can have for the main studs

 

The next time that I talk with Darton East, I will try to get as much info as I can.

 

Thanks I talked 2 gadget looks like I'm gettin his engine