Dashcam Hardwire Install

which fuse position is the sun roof?

 

Interesting, I don’t really use the GoPro in this location.’ifht be a good reason to get a dash cam.

 

The one on the bottom left, marked s/roof and is the only 20 amp in the box.

 

I'm assuming that is only powered when the ignition is on.

 

Hey guys, I’ve never done any mods where I had to touch the fuse box so I’m a bit nervous to do it. I’m trying to hardwire my

$160 Rexing V1P 4K Car Dash Cam 2.4" LCD 2160p Front + 1080p Rear Wi-Fi 170° Wide Angle Dual Channel with Rear Cam, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording Mobile App Supercapacitor

Rexing V1P 3rd Gen and these are the wires I currently have. I’m using the Rexing Hardwire kit and I also bought an add a fuse. Anyone want to walk me through what connections I’m making? Looking to have continuous power, but not a deal breaker if it’s not continuous. Read through all the posts but I’m still a bit confused. Thanks in advance

 

You might be better off with a fuse that's only on when the ignition is on or you might see too much of a power drain while parked. If you don't have a sun roof, then that's a good ignition on fuse to tap into. For continues power if you do want to go that way, pick one of the other non critical ones like maybe the dome light. Pull the fuse, and put it in the lower slot on the fuse tap and then put the same amp size in the upper fuse slot. Insert the fuse tap into the fuse spot. Splice the fuse tap to the wire you ran from you camera and attach the ground wire using the screw near the fuse box. That's about it. You won't be able to put the cover back on the fuse box unless you buy one of those raised covers from a third party seller. There's on on TW someplace.

Edit to add: Tacomas take the low profile mini fuses.

 

Thanks for the reply. The wire running from the camera to the fuse box already has a fuse connector, so if I wanted to use the sunroof spot since I don’t have a sunroof, would it just be plug and play without needing to use the add a fuse?

 

These are much easier guys than tapping into a fuse. I have this my other cars and the Tacoma and no error light on dash.
Most are mini USB or micro USB so need to check your dash cam. All this does is get 12v signal. Routing wire is super clean around head lining and down /under dash. I'm a bit OCD so I cant stand loose or dangling wires.
The current draw is very minimal, like an alarm. I've had it sitting for 3 days without startup with no issues. This particular one has a always on switch or switch it off to use the battery on dash cam for parking / motion sensor. Search under OBD DASH CAM .
On the Tacoma, there's JUST enough room to tuck in wires. There's no need to pull panels or even head lining .

 

The fuse tap connected to your wiring is a full sized one. You need the low profile mini. The little ones in your first post look like the right size so you would need to cut off the one that's on there and put the other tap on with the provided crimp connection. Or if you want to spend a few extra bucks you might consider the alternative OBD connection suggested in the above post. That does make it easy.

 

Going with the OBD instead of fuses and taps and everything else. Returned the 2 sets and got the OBD for less than I paid for the other 2 kits. Thank you everyone that helped answer my questions!

 

Has this caused any lights or issues? Im not electrical savy and this is my best option I think.

 

Honestly it’s pretty smooth, EXCEPT one thing I noticed is that sometimes my truck now has a hard time locking and unlocked (either by tapping handle or on key fob) so when I park the truck I just unplug the camera real quick and plug it back in when I drive. Now I never have that problem anymore, so it’s definitely the OBD. I’d probably go another route knowing this.

 

Good to know, that changes things for me.

 

Are you suggesting leaving the unit plugged in is causing a current drain resulting in the door open function problems, or do you think it has to do with the OBD doing something else. Also, doesn't your unit have a switch to turn it off?

 

I've got a Garmin 45 ordered. Do you have any photos of where you mounted yours?
Alex (OP), thanks for a very informative explanation of how to deal with the A pillar.

 

I rigged the camera mount and mounted on the Gopro mount. One thing about this camera is tgat it gets super hot to the touch.

 

My truck doesn't have a GoPro mount. I'm thinking that I would rather have the dash cam on the drivers side of the mirror if it'll fit above my line of sight. Thoughts?

 

The Garmin 45 comes with a double sided tape magnet, so you can pretty much mount it anywhere to your liking. To be honest, the drivers side would be a better spot. I always find myself reaching to press the buttons. I been thinking about reordering the magnet and switch the camera to the drivers side, I have not done it because I don't want to rearrange the wire again.

 

OK, I decided to try mounting it on the left of the mirror as I mentioned before. Seems like it'll work fine there. It is just above my line of sight. You can't tell from the photo but it is in the area cleared by the windshield wipers.


Plus it's hardly noticeable from the outside. Well at least on a rainy day. May be different on a sunshiny day.

 

Installed a DR590W-2ch this week with a PMP, was easy-peasy with threads like this.