Dayman's Karate Class- from SAS’ed Taco, bouncer, IFS 4Runner, and now a Jeep!

Need some 40’s I guess haha yeah maybe it’s all in my head. I’ll see where I am in the shock stroke back there, but I think I’ve got a decent split. Not like I have no down travel or anything. I like them low slung, too. Gonna be all on those skids with 35’s anyways

 

Found some 80 series coils that are 20.75” free length. Referred to as the 9.25 wraps I believe. Thinking I’ll be in the same boat as the rusty coils. They were 20” and 160 lb/in. Can’t find a definite on the LC spring rate, but I think it’s 160. The 861 say they are for heavy weight, but same height LC. Not sure if that means the short factory LC coils or the longest ones like these…

 

Finally out of the garage. Hopefully I’ll lose some height with the LC coils. Also missing about 75 lbs back there. Had to change up the rear layout. Went with a rough country tire mount because I’m tired of making stuff

 

Testing things out a bit. Exhaust dumps right on the rear axle and Johnny joint which I’m not happy about so I’ll be changing that. So far it’s a blast, but have some fine tuning to do for sure. Also lost my speedo which I’m guessing is from ditching the rear ABS sensors when converting to disks. Not sure what to do about it.

 

My Speedo went in and out once in heavy rain but 99% of the time it works and I only have front sensors attached.

also you have to redo exhaust for the 3 link? I might bother you for some pics of the layout because I might be cutting into mine this winter.

 

Maybe my fronts are dead. I’ve got a couple new ones to try. You do have to reroute the exhaust. I originally wanted to go all the way back, but I hate exhaust work so I just dumped before the axle. Not early enough apparently because the housing was so hot you couldn’t touch it haha. I’ll snag some pics, but it’s nothing fancy. Just a compact muffler and turn down right past the bolt junction around the middle of the cab

 

Would like to go on record and say the OME 861 and the LC 9.25 wrap whatever’s end up at the same ride height. The LC coils have the magic free length to handle 14” smoothies without becoming loose, however so they will stay. Probably need to raise the front a bit and I’ve got around 75 pounds to add to the back.



@JTFisherman here’s my exhaust hack job. I will do a turn down right past the muffler instead. Hope that helps

 

Same height unloaded. Once you put some weight in the back the 9 wraps will compress way more then the 861's would have. That said, glad you found a coil that works with your set-up.

 

@JTFisherman are you aware of any aftermarket sway bars with a higher rate? Or do later model 4Runner ones fit? I think I can make the factory location work. It gets close to the lower links on full stuff, but I’m going to use a bolt and some short top links with misalignments to test it out with.

now that I’ve stared at it a bit I realize a TK1 would be nearly impossible to fit because of the shock relocation. I think I can make some brackets to raise the mounting points axle side then raise the frame side, too. That should allow me to fit a longer end link and not hit the lower links. Now I’ve gotta find a stiffer bar.

 

I don’t know of a stiffer bar for us, only one I have seen is for a FJ.

I think fj / newer 4runner stuff probably won’t fit since the axles are a close to 5” wider I think?

any chance you could fit a tk1 right under where the rear shock hoops mount? I was thinking you might be able to fit either a 13 or 14 inch arm there from the math I was doing? That should be a decent arm length with the 1” “crawler” bar tk1 has

 

I doubt it’d fit. The tires would likely hit on full articulation. That hoop and the resi are way back on the frame.

 

Probably why I have no speedo. Also love the short on the alternator fuse. Not sure if these are fuse prongs stuck in there, but I can’t get them to pull out and I’m scared of using too much force.

edit: I see that they’re fusible links and bolt in from the sides. Cute.

 

If you moved resi up top of the hoop

Then mount the swap bar below the frame like straight down from the rear shock hoop mount, I forget where I got measurements but I was thinking that should put you right above the axle with like a 13” arm.

Would just have to make sure it doesn’t compress enough to interfere with the shock mount.

mine doesn’t rub the sway bar arms with a 45” I think wide bar (you would want the same) but i have 2” spacers 0 offset and 37.x12.5

 

just browsed through the thread.
4Runner is looking good.
Homestead is growing.

 

Thank you! Both have been fun ongoing projects. Always something to do around here.

 

Evening ride on a rockier section at the house. Holding up pretty well so far. Not pushing it until the diffs are broken in. Skids are getting broken in pretty good though lol Speedo and odo still not working with a fuse in…not sure what my next step is

 

Beautiful scenery

 

Thought I’d try cycling the stock sway bar with custom links/spacing/mounts before trying a stiffer aftermarket (OEM fit) bar. So far so good. Hard to fully articulate it in the garage, but what I could works well. Welded it all up and will see what’s what in the ground.

 

Got it on the ground and it cycled smoothly without binding. Didn’t do much for the front, but hopefully a stiffer bar will. Can’t find any specs other than the bar is 1” thick, but this seems to be my only option so I’m going for it-

https://www.addco.net/product/toyota-4-runner-1996-02-rear/

 

After emailing ADDCO, their sway bar for the 3rd gen is 206 lbs/in and the stock is 55 lbs/in. I haven’t crunched any numbers, but since this is the next logical step we will see how it does. I can tell a bit of difference with the stock bar on, especially normal driving. Hoping the ADDCO bar doesn’t snap or anything though. Will be asking a lot of it with 12” of travel