Defective caliper domino effect?

i did a front brake job last November. Recently I felt a little pulsing when braking, so I had a look see. One of the caliper’s piston appears to not be retracting. I put it that way rather than “frozen” cuz it’s not fully out & causing pulling or noises, etc.
i am going to exchange it as it is under warranty. I might grab the passenger side one as well just in case. I didn’t notice anything off, but my inspecting did not involve taking the pads out, etc.
So here’s the question. I have put 8,000-ish miles on the truck since they were done. I have purchased new brake pads since I bought the originals at a separate place than the rotors & calipers, my point being that even though the defective caliper caused the need to buy new brake pads, I decided not to pick that battle. I will, based on TW feedback, take up the battle regarding replacement rotor(s).
Ok, so really, here’s the question - i know it is ideal, however, with 8,000 miles so far, is it important to have a new rotor at the same time I am putting on a new caliper & pads? &, by the same token, is it just as important to do both sides at the same time? I will do the pads both sides no matter what, so we’re talking caliper & rotor.
Ok, Ok. That was two questions....

 

If the defective calipers caused your rotors to warp, then I would try to get the rotors replaced when you get the replacement calipers. Rotors aren't very expensive as it is so even if they won't replace the rotors, I would probably still get new ones.

And yes, do both sides at the same time. When it comes to brakes, always do both sides of whichever axle you are working on.

 

its almost 50/50...if the rotors dont look overheated, I might stick with them but they would have to look pristine. From my experience its just easier and not that overly expensive to change it all at once so you dont have to go back later if the same problem arises.

 

New rotors? It depends, if your current rotors are not warped and have enough material remaining to be machined, use your existing rotors. If they can't be machined because there is not enough material remaining, replace them. Yes, replace rotors in pairs, just as you would pads and calipers.

Hope this helps.

 

Thank you all & it definitely helps

 

how bad was the pulsing?

 

On a scale of 1-10, it was about a 3. I started them today & as has seemed to be the way of the universe these days, one thing lead to another & another & another.... Sometimes it's better to just walk away & come bck to it later, but I'm not so good at that, so hours later, after realizing they gave me the wrong replacement calipers, then finding a ride to go get the correct ones & then wrestling with a pin because the hole where the clip goes was not fully revealing itself, I believe I have come to the conclusion that the pins that come with these calipers suck & that the pads' movement was restricted. When I (because I will damn it!) get to the other one in the a.m., I'll check it out more thoroughly. & they did exchange the rotors as well

 

so you're replacing both? best bleed them. Also some sandpaper wouldn't hurt around the pins and inside the pads.

 

Sand the inside of the pads? You mean the ceramic? & sanding the pins to make 'em a little thinner or give them a rougher surface? Curious sort here.... Also helps to know what I'm trying to achieve....

 

pins to make em thinner and sand the holes that the pins go through on the pads. or you can apple some grease to help.

 

Haha! Ok. You put "inside" & all that came to mind was, as they are positioned in the caliper, the ceramic would be the inside. & of course I thought sanding the ceramic sounded a little odd.... well, more like extremely odd.... Thank & will do. & yes, doing them both. Also, all over the bleeding them, passenger side first
Just wait. I have belts on my to do list - I'll have to bring my computer outside & set it to TW