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DIY - 2.4L / 2.7L fuel filter relocation mod

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by keakar, Oct 25, 2014.

  1. Oct 25, 2014 at 9:47 AM
    #1
    keakar

    keakar [OP] Well-Known Member

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    karl
    louisiana
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    used to have - 99 2.4L I4 5 lug & 04 prerunner v6
    ok I just couldn't stand how stupid it was for the fuel filter to be placed in such a hard to get to and service location purely to make it so difficult that you need to bring it to Toyota dealers to change it and I cant stand dirty tricks like this or stupid designs for things.

    this mod is simple and easy for anyone to do themselves and it literally costs you just a few dollars to get rid of this headache forever.

    materials needed:

    WIX Fuel Filter 33886
    18" of 1/4" or 5/16" fuel line (depending on your year truck) and two spring clamps (one for each end)
    5/16" bolt 3/4" or 1" long with two washers and a locking nut
    new fuel filter that comes with new washers (make sure you get the new washers)

    tools needed:

    regular pliers
    channel lock pliers
    diagonal cutting pliers
    bench grinder, file, or dremel tool (just something to cut off the hose clamps)

    now to get the old filter out you will need a 12mm socket for the filter mounting bolts and a 17mm socket to remove the fuel line fittings on the filter and the one on the back of the fuel injector fuel rail. I was able to remove my filter mounting bolts by just reaching in from the top with my right hand and feeling for them to push the socket onto them while holding the extension with my left hand, then hold it while you pull out your right hand and put the ratchet on and break it loose. as soon as it starts to turns it should come out very easy by hand without needing the socket anymore. I don't have small hands or small arms so anyone should be able to do the same without needing to pull the wheel like the guy does in the video.

    just put the 12mm bolts back in place and tighten them down after the filter is removed since they are no longer used and its a good safe place to keep them. when removing the banjo fittings take care not to loose the little sealing washers, there is one on top and one under the banjo fitting. if you loose them they are not easy to replace. I bought a cheap filter that didn't have new replacements so I had to return it and buy another filter just to get new washers to replace the ones I lost, so make sure the filter that you buy comes with new washers.

    this video shows the "normal" way to remove and replace the fuel filter but I found its easier to take the fuel line loose at the front of the filter instead of breaking loose the hose connections at the fender.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hXO2ph9XCY

    now the front hose is not altered but you may need to turn the banjo fitting to line up with the new mounting location and to do that you stick a screwdriver through the hole of the fitting (do not mar the sealing surfaces) and you can turn it to line it up and it will not leak.

    the hose on the rear of the fuel filter that goes to the fuel rail needs to have both hose clamps cut or filed off then peel it away with the diagonal pliers. then clean up the hose nipples and install the new 5/16" fuel line to the fuel rail fitting and put your spring loaded fuel line clamp on it. now feed it up under the intake manifold and install it into position. you will have to measure and trim it to fit the new filter location. install the banjo fitting for the other end on the rear of the fuel filter in the slot made for it and install your new filter in the filter bracket. now put the filter in the sport it will be mounted and trim the line at the right length and then install it with the other spring clamp.

    http://s1076.photobucket.com/user/keakar63/media/P1020628.jpg.html
    P1020628_f787de36acd20db02d9e5baecd1dc5a0f2ed9178.jpg
    now if you look on the drivers side fender there is a round hole ready made to mount the filter so put the 5/16" bolt and washer in from the fender side and under the hood hang the fuel filter bracket on it and the other washer and locking nut and tighten it down in place. you only need the one bolt to hold it securely. (if you use the wide hole the fender skirt doo-dad gets in the way)

    http://s1076.photobucket.com/user/keakar63/media/P1020627.jpg.html
    P1020627_079a0491dbdf77c4fc50f05568248e984747460a.jpg
    now turn the banjo fitting on the front hose so it lines up and then install it and you are done. you don't want the line to be twisted or it may kink so if its not at the right angle then turn it and you may need to loosen the hose connection to the main line and tilt it towards the firewall to allow a nice uniform loop in the line. just be sure it doesn't hang down too far so it has the necessary clearance when the suspension moves up and down so the hose does not come in contact with the upper control arm. now you should be finished so turn key to prime the filter and lines and start the truck and then check for leaks. go back and recheck for leaks again after the engine warms up before calling it done.

    http://s1076.photobucket.com/user/keakar63/media/P1020637.jpg.html
    P1020637_df08b4505e3d8f59c0987eeab380adf399034425.jpg
    and there it is, a very simple and easy mod and the fuel filter is now mounted where it should have been all along in an easy to get to and replace location.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2016
  2. Oct 25, 2014 at 2:45 PM
    #2
    97TacoNM

    97TacoNM Riding a 97 Taco

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    NM
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    I was going to do this very same thing when I pulled my manifold off to paint it. I can't access your pics - go to photobucket.com and set up a free account, then link your pics to the post here. Well, I guess I can see your pics if I register on that site.
     
  3. Oct 26, 2014 at 1:21 PM
    #3
    keakar

    keakar [OP] Well-Known Member

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    used to have - 99 2.4L I4 5 lug & 04 prerunner v6
    sorry, didn't realize it required registration. that must be why they didn't work when I tried to add them.;)

    ok I redid it at photobucket the pics work now
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2015
  4. Oct 26, 2014 at 7:51 PM
    #4
    97TacoNM

    97TacoNM Riding a 97 Taco

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    Sweet!
     
  5. Jul 24, 2015 at 3:06 PM
    #5
    joshhemming

    joshhemming Member

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    You said "now the front hose is not altered but you may need to turn the banjo fitting to line up with the new mounting location" but in the last picture it looks like the front hose was indeed altered, and the rear hose not altered. Isn't the black shiny hose on the front a new addition?
     
  6. Jul 24, 2015 at 4:07 PM
    #6
    keakar

    keakar [OP] Well-Known Member

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    no the hose is just shiny because I cleaned it, its the original hose I cut off the fitting before I realized it didn't need to be cut shorter. I cut the fitting off of the hose and then "after the fact", I realized I didn't need to cut it shorter so I shouldn't have cut it off, so im letting other people know not to make the same mistake I made and all you need to do is twist the angle of that banjo fitting slightly and your done. the hose on the rear of the filter is new because that one is too short to reach the fender so and it loops up under the intake manifold to connect to the metal fuel line fitting at the rear of the fuel rail.
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2015
  7. Oct 28, 2015 at 6:10 PM
    #7
    SilverGhost

    SilverGhost Well-Known Member

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    #killingsnowpilesatthemall
    I've done something similar because I'm doing a 3.4 swap. Nice work.
     
  8. Oct 30, 2015 at 1:39 PM
    #8
    keakar

    keakar [OP] Well-Known Member

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    thanks, I hate stupid shit like the way Toyota designed this fuel filter location. I mean why not just put the damn thing on the frame rail up under the drivers seat like they did for the 6 cylinders?
     
    SilverGhost likes this.
  9. Jan 13, 2016 at 2:17 AM
    #9
    Chris D.

    Chris D. Well-Known Member

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    2RZ-FE Turbo Intercooled, standalone........... Exactly 150% more power to the wheels than stock at the wheels. Supra transmission, 4 linked rear, QA1 coilovers all around, S-Runner rear sway bar, Corbeau bucket seats, forged 5 spoke 17x9 wheels, Wilwood 12.19" 4 piston brakes, Ford 9" rear end (early bronco) 31 spline, full floater, big bearing, 3.50 gears, trac-lock. fully functioning air conditioning and cruise control....
    Nicely done.
     
  10. Jan 21, 2016 at 9:26 AM
    #10
    930dreamer

    930dreamer Well-Known Member

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    Nice write up thank you. Now I know where my fuel filter is. :)
     
  11. Jan 23, 2016 at 10:50 AM
    #11
    keakar

    keakar [OP] Well-Known Member

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    im just glad this helps people out
     
  12. Jan 24, 2016 at 12:33 AM
    #12
    Chris D.

    Chris D. Well-Known Member

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    While I'm in there doing other things.

    I'm going to relocate this as well..
    Nothing pisses me off more than having t crack open the fuel system just to remove the intake.

    12625816_10153942373019850_1742185111_n.jpg
    12625889_10153942373059850_243979858_n.jpg
     
  13. Jan 24, 2016 at 12:37 AM
    #13
    Chris D.

    Chris D. Well-Known Member

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    One thought however..

    It's going to be a nightmare for whoever does your alignment.
    Its going to be a bear to get to those upper bolts for the upper control arm.

     
  14. Jan 24, 2016 at 12:43 AM
    #14
    Chris D.

    Chris D. Well-Known Member

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    Sorry for the multi replies, but do you have any pictures on how you went from the rail to the filter?

    Thanks
     
  15. Jan 24, 2016 at 9:11 AM
    #15
    keakar

    keakar [OP] Well-Known Member

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    it just looks that way because of the angle the picture was taken, the filter actually doesn't stick out for then 1" from the inner fender well bottom edge so the bolts are all easy to access.

    as for the rail, it goes straight down through the intake manifold tubes in the original location but instead of turning 90 degrees into the filter, the longer hose goes to the fuel filter on the inner fender well. you just lay it out and measure where to cut it off to attach it, leaving a few inches of slack so it can flex but not rub on anything.

    I had some concerns to protect the hose, so I put plastic wire loom over it for extra protection to prevent it from rubbing on anything, but it doesn't touch anything anywhere so its not needed.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2016
    Chris D. likes this.
  16. Jan 24, 2016 at 4:21 PM
    #16
    Chris D.

    Chris D. Well-Known Member

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  17. Feb 20, 2016 at 1:17 PM
    #17
    Chris D.

    Chris D. Well-Known Member

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    Just ordered an OEM filter, figured, what the hell since I'm in there..
    Iit was like 36 or 38 but it had a "make an offer" button so I offered 30..
    score!

    Toyota 23300-79446 for future reference.
    This fits ALL 2RZ-FE and 3RZ-FE engines of all years. The listing was a lil off.
    I confirmed the part number with the local Toyota dealership.










    Screenshot_2016-02-20-14-56-27.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2016
  18. Feb 22, 2016 at 9:57 AM
    #18
    keakar

    keakar [OP] Well-Known Member

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    what done is done but all you needed was a WIX Fuel Filter 33886 for $23 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wix-33886-F...m2108cd4bc0:m:mCgCh40V_X-u_em-nobSmXQ&vxp=mtr
     
  19. Feb 22, 2016 at 10:08 AM
    #19
    Chris D.

    Chris D. Well-Known Member

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    Saw on ttora that factory was the way to go, the element design was much better than 4 of the aftermarket filters they cut open.
     
  20. Feb 28, 2016 at 6:50 PM
    #20
    chrismorse

    chrismorse Member

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    Thanks Karl,
    I bought the filter, but didn't have enough time to get it done before I had to do a long "family trip".
    The little muther was buried in there but I wanted to do the clutch and light wheel before I left..

    Your practical approach to streamline maintenance is a gift to the guys. do the mod and future maintenance is easier.

    Thanks Chris D for the note on factory filters. (and maybe my question posted earlier on the little oil filters).

    This forum has been a lot of help.

    chris
     

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