DIY Bed Divider

Thinking about storing groceries and small cargo inside the bed without spending big bucks on an OEM bed divider? This is a great low cost solution!

All materials from . Total cost is around $78.

• (2) Ratcheting cargo bar, $21.99
• (2) 2x20ft Recovery straps, $16.99
• Staple gun and plenty of staples which I already have

The measurements are 51" across the bed (based on the lower cargo bar) and 12" between the top and bottom cargo bar with the vertical straps cut out at 21.5" to wrap around the bars.

I intended to bond the interweaving straps by using grommets, but they did not have enough depth to secure the thicker recovery straps. You can also substitute the recovery straps with black mesh tarp from HF. The whole process should be a lot quicker using the grommets.

I then tried using 3/16 rivets but the backside did not secure the strap. An alternative is putting washers on the other side but that will look tacky.

Finally using a staple gun crossed my mind and it worked out quite well. Be sure to use needle-nose pliers to tuck in the ends of the staple to avoid puncturing yourself! The backside does look a little tacky given the amount of staples and the burn marks, but no one will be looking at it!

It turned out awesome and I particularly like the neon yellow colour from the recovery strap. I would say if you have access to a heavy-duty/commercial sewing machine, that would be the best way to secure the interweaving straps and would get a super clean look.

 

I then tried using 3/16 rivets but the backside did not secure the strap. An alternative is putting washers on the other side but that will look tacky.

it would not look tacky, use 2 washers the same size one on each side, I have done this before to secure other items(using a nylon type belting)

 

Your deign is excellent other than the staples.
Do you think hot glue would work on the straps?

 

I personally woud not trust hot glue for much of anything as far as vehicle use. If hot glue gets hot again it looses it's bond. Vehicles are hot, especialy when parked in the sun during summer.

Of course I love in FL near the coast so it is about 80ish and up almost year round. I grew up in southwest OK where summer temps can ealisy climb over 100. So for me the car/truck will be in the triple digit temps on almost ay given day. Ballpoint pens explode/leak, adhesives on many tapes and get soft, and ice tea truns to warm tea in a very short time if left in the truck. Anything that is not "melt" proof goes in the house/office with me.

Just my pair of pennies.

 

I wonder if some type of netting would have looked better or would have been easier to secure across the cargo bars.

 

How hot does it need to get for the hot glue to fail?
It would get hot under my tonneau cover.
I am only holding golf clubs and occasional smaller items like bags of dog food, a carry on suitcase or groceries.

 

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pilot-Au...62587&wl11=online&wl12=39546879&wl13=&veh=sem

Yeah something like this but for a smaller truck. I thought the same thing as you when I 1st read his post.

 

Scooter, that net, although for full size would easily work. just don't use the ties on the ends, weave the bars through the top and bottom rows of squares. you could cut off the tails with a hot wire or a razor knife then melt the ends.

 

I have to remember that if I ever get rid of this roll-up and get a Undercover SE or Elite. I saw a SE on a truck the other day and I like the looks of it now that I saw it in person. But yeah the net will be a "must have" with a lid.

 

I switched to a trifold. I used the lifetime warranty on my access roll up a bunch of times on my 2004. The hard ones are too heavy and awkward to remove alone and I take it off at least once a month for hauling something. I like it on for the gas mileage

 

I also like the idea but I am certain hot glue (or any adhesive) won't work; I'm also certain the staples won't stay in long.

The right way to secure nylon webbing to itself is with stitching (best but permanent) or buckles (nylon buckles like on backpacks, or steel, either is the adjustable option but would be super-complicated with all those connections). See an outdoor supplier like REI for nylon buckles. REI also carries 1" and wider flat webbing that can be handled/secured more easily than those 6,000-lb tow straps but is super-strong anyway (again, like on backpacks, or the double thick (loop) kind used for rope attachments, harnesses, and slings by rock climbers but less flexible than flat webbing). If you have a sewing machine around, a few X passes where the webbing crosses itself would do the trick; or I'm sure you can find instructions online for making very strong connections in flat nylon webbing. Nylon (including tow straps) does degrade over time in UV light.

One question: aren't you finding places along the bed sides that don't like the stress of these ratcheting dividers pushing outward on them? I don't think it's completely backed by steel.

 

Sure, or juryrig a way to attach one of these to the ratchet bars:

$58 Bully TR-03WK Black Nylon Universal Fit Truck Heavy Duty Full-Size 60" x 18" Cargo Tailgate Net For Trucks from Chevy (Chevrolet), Ford, Toyota, GMC, Dodge RAM, Jeep

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FZJ9SS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_9?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Cable-Tie-8-inch-40LBS-100pcs-Pack-Black/40501774

Cable ties would be an option.

 

You can try and weave the ratchet bar through the netting at the top and bottom.