DIY Front Brake Pad Change.

I disagree: I don't think it's such a good idea to resurface rotors unless you HAVE to. First, they don't always need it; instead, just rough up the surface with coarse emery cloth or sandpaper and a small power sander to aid bedding the new pads.

But if they do need it due to scoring or warping brand-new rotors are frequently only a few bucks more than resurfacing. A full thickness rotor is so much less prone to warping and can handle more heat.

Not saying resurfacing is NEVER right, just check prices against brand new before making the decision to resurface.

Also, any shop worth going to won't even resurface a rotor if it will go below the minimum cast in the rotor. If you ever go to a shop that will don't walk, run away from it. The next guy pulling in his lot may be riding brakes he resurfaced.

 

buddywh1 I agree with you because in prehistoric times rotors had a lot of meat were expensive to replace and could be resurfaced many times. That is no longer the case like you said you have to be very careful, rotors can't take much resurfacing, will warp and are cheap to replace so why bother just use a little emery or sandpaper if it makes you more comfortable. I have just swapped the pads w/o doing anything else w/o a problem.

 

Every time I have ever had rotors resurfaced they didn't last jig time before they warped - causing me to buy a new pair anyways.

The rotors on my '98 Tacoma were OEM and had 135,000 miles on them when I sold the truck and were still in great shape. Third pair of pads were currently being used with those rotors and never had so much as a single squeak. Never cut or turned on a lathe. Roughen them up a little with some sandpaper and you'll be fine.

 

What I said confirmed. Why bother with turning the rotors. Leave them alone or buy new. Thanks

 

x3

My experience has been the same. Turning the roters didn't last long for me either.

 

Yes, just use C-Clamp, you may not even have to remove the calipers. Use the old pad between the C-Clamp to push back.

 

Holy crap. I cant believe this thread is still getting hits!

 

Subbed.

 

Some have asked what kind of milage some of us got out of the factory brake pads. I got 102,000 on the original pads. I drive around 85 miles round trip, in various conditions, and I have been no where near easy on the brakes. Replaced them with Toyota brand ($69.00) for the set. Dealer quoted me $205 for them to do the same thing I accomplished in an hour. Did not turn the rotors since they were fairly smooth anyway with no vibration felt when braking. The new pads are like little grinders anyway, and will polish any imperfections out of the rotor. Used a screw driver and gently pried against the rotor and the old pad to push them back. No scarring or scratches to the rotor surface. I guess if I would have known it was this easy to to a pad swap (all the dealer will do minus the turning of the rotor) I would not have waited until 102,000mi.

 

Great write up. Did my pads today, it was al ot easier than I thought it would be (my first time changing pads).

Thanks!

 

Replaced my front pads, resurfaced the rotors and bled the system.
Brakes are still mushy as the day I brought my 05 home.
I have almost 40k on the odometer.

I still have to adjust the rear brakes but am thinking about changing over to the stainless steel brake lines to see if it gives the pedal a better feel.

 

Check it out if you haven't already. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/gr...-deal-steel-braded-brake-lines-group-buy.html

 

i will be doing my pads after work, and want to make sure i am going to do this right.
I have the basic concept down, jack up truck, choke and remove wheels, then remove clips behind pads, when you remove the pad and compress the piston do you need to remove the top off of the brake fluidto allow for any air to come out? Once the piston are compressed then slide new pads on and apply antiseize to the pins? What type of anti seize do you need? Has any one had any trouble doing it this way? Seems pretty easy, but just want to make sure i got it all down before i go playing with my brakes

thanks guys,
Brad

 

yep, totally killed the lock nut on the tire.
anyone know how i can remove this thing?

 

cherry

 

find a cheap 12pt socket, that almost fits..TIGHT! hammer it on, unbolt it..and toss the entire thing. i have done it twice..getting the wedge lug out is not easy for me. better to use a friend's sockets.

 

Took my rotors off this evening so I can bring them into be turned tomorrow morning. When I was trying to push the caliper in, one of the dust boots came loose, so had to tend to that. When I pushed them back in, a little fluid leaked from the caliper.

Am I the only one this has happened to? If a small amount of fluid came out, I am hoping no air went in..

 

Where did it leak exactly? I assume from behind the piston dust boot?

It shouldn't..if it did, then there's probably a corrosion pit allowing it to seep by the piston. It leaked as you pushed the piston back, exposing the pit. It may not leak at first if the seal went past the pit, but at some point it will start leaking as the seal works forward in the next pad wear cycle. I'd get a rebuilt caliper and replace it.

Since there's a corrosion pit in that caliper, the fluid is obviously compromised so absolutely flush it with clean new fluid.

 

This is what happened. Pushed it the outward calipers first. No problem, but like some say, it pushed the inside calipers out a bit. Was using a larger c-clamp, so had a difficult time fitting the clamp on for the rear calipers. Ended up pushing one of the rear calipers rather than both at the same time. When I did this, it pushed the other caliper out I'm thinking all the way, then the squirt.

 

hmmm...so then you're thinking you pushed a piston out to far so it leaked? If the leaking showed up at a piston that was fully extended I'd be less concerned about a corrosion pit at least.

I have never taken apart one of our calipers so I don't know for certain, but it seems to me if you got the piston back in it should all be OK...IF that was the case! Maybe someone else with some experience re-building calipers could help.

But I would definitely bleed all wheels in case any air got in, and should flush anyway. It won't take long to find out if there's a leak. If it didn't show up in flushing, once you've put it all back together and before you put the wheel back on fire up the truck (for maximum vacuum assist) and have someone lay on the brakes big time. If the seal was damaged it'll leak then and there.