DIY: Full Flush for Automatic Transmission

Thank you, ill await your update -

ps - you mean synthetic in the trans or diff?

[QUOTE="07 sport 4x4, post: 11164776, member: 48165" Also, with the 05-09 limited slip differentials DO NOT use synthetic fluid or they will chatter worse than ever.[/QUOTE]

 

Thank you, Im referring to an 06 Sport 2WD not my 2010 Off Road

 

Ok, then yes, you need the additive in the rear diff

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/05-08-trd-sport-rear-diff.241166/
Post #19
@MPOW33R

 

I'm doing this service in 1k and am practicing temp check right now. I followed the steps and my AT light illuminated for 2 seconds after the 6 shifts. It is supposed to illuminate again for 2 seconds when I shift back to park. Ive gotten the initial 2 sec light to come on over a dozen tries but cannot get the second 2 sec light once in park.

 

Great write up. Subd for future reference

 

http://youtu.be/vpGIBJPnJX4

 

[/QUOTE]
In the diff

 

Completed the AT fluid flush today. I used the garden sprayer method and went with the valvoline max life ATF along with a bottle of the Lucas ATF conditioner. I did a pan drop. Got just shy of 4 quarts out of the pan after draining then dropping the pan. Ended up adding 17.5 quarts. No problems getting it to temp mode but did have to add additional fluid a quart at a time before getting the fluid to trickle out of the check plug. All in all not a bad DIY job. It appears my trans. Was low on fluid from the factory. Fluid that drained out was still reddish. Drained out 15 and put in 17.5. My 05 just turned 43k and I tow a travel trailer. Great write up. Thanks!!!

 

I have an 05' with 91K - flush done at 45K as part of the original owners extended service plan. Contacted dealer for pricing and was quoted $119 for drain/fill - $159 for flush. My only concern is the theory that a full flush dislodges debris and is actually worse...thoughts?

 

So many people don't do anything and that's where it gets them in trouble, when you go over 100,000. The transmission fluid has already started to break down, along with a lot of very fine medal particles. What's has happened is some of the internal areas/pockets and the torque converter of the transmission has a build up quite bit of sludge & medal shavings. When you do a drastic flush with all new fluids. It causes this cake up material to start to break loose over time, thus jamming some of the internal moving parts. You on the other hand have all ready have done a drain and fill. Suggest not to do a flush, but just a drain, which is about 5 quarts. If you want to go an extra step, have them drop the pan and install a new filter. Another suggestion, do the drain & fill yourself and save some $$$! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q-nhSpJjYyE

 

Do a flush, you'll be fine, we have members here that have flushed theirs with 150k or more miles with no ill effects. Provided that it doesn't have any problems beforehand, a flush shouldn't hurt anything. I disagree with the previous poster on the filter change, it is actually just a strainer, or a screen. If you've accumulated enough debris that the strainer needs changing, your transmission is on its last leg, imo. I believe it is possible to clean the strainer, but I doubt the dealership would be willing to do that. If it makes you feel better to change it, it's your truck and your money. Your mileage may vary.

 

The $40 difference is not an issue between flush and drain/fill, just try'n to stay ahead of future problems and increased longevity by doing a little PM whe $$ permits - but I also want to do the most beneficial PM. I think if the flush wasn't done at 45K I may be more inclined to do the drain/fill.

 

Everyone's has their own ideas. Just check the internet for people who had their transmission flushed. Filter is just a fine screen, but their's a lot of slug and debris in the bottom of the pan. Doing a flush on an old transmission you're asking for problems.

 

I've read every post on this thread once, and have looked it over a couple times in preparation for when I do my first flush which will be 50k-55k. I've also read the other threads pertaining to the auto transmission on here. From what I've read if the dealer uses a high pressure flush machine it may dislodge debris you may have. If the flush is completed like on this thread there is no added pressure that will dislodge any debris.

In my opinion your transmission is probably in fantastic shape because it was flushed early on. You only have 46k miles on the fluid which is advised to be changed every 60k.

 

Is 3/8 the same size as the OE line if you were looking to replace it?

 

I stopped at Autozone to look for T-IV fluid for my '13 4 banger. The Valvoline in the pic below says it can be used in place of both T-IV and WS. I know We're not supposed to put WS in the 4. Should I not use this? Thanks all.

 

I used the Walmart Brand, same stuff only cheaper!

 

OP, many thanks for this write up. Did the flush today on my '08 Off-Road Pre-runner DC w/ tow package without incident (ok, I did get dirty and slathered with ATF- ssdd ). Truck is driving great so far with much smoother idling and shifting. My guess is the trans was factory under-filled by at least a quart. I put in 17 of Valvoline Max Life and it only fed out 15 1/2. I'm giving 1/2 qt margin of error for spillage .

 

I've purchased everything i need to do a flush. I'm at 75,000 miles. It's 28 degrees out right now, though. Will a couple of drain and fills essentially do the same thing? I mean, if I drain and fill today, then again in like 500 miles, then again 500 miles later, will I achieve like results, as long as I get around 16 quarts through it over time?