DIY LCA Ball Joint Replacement 2005+ Tacoma

You gotta help me with my LCAs first

 

I don't really have to cut into mah tailgate fer this do I?

 

You also have to sacrifice a deer or other snow laden animal.

 

I think we are on PM number 10 now. I start charging on the 15th PM

you haz no shweps so no. Only trucks with red turbines need to cut into the tailgate and muffler bearings

 

Ordering Moog LBJs from Rock Auto now. Will do this w/in the next few weeks. To cut the threads for the grease/zerk fitting did you run a tap through the hole or does the grease fitting cut its own threads when you first screw it in? Also, since threads must be cut do you subsequently have to clean out metal shavings before installing/greasing the ball joint? I've never replaced ball joints, so I'm kind of dreading this project. Thanks for the write-up!

 

very good question.

a tap will not fit because it hits the top of the BJ. I tried and failed.

I ended up forcing the zerk in while rotating it clockwise. The zerk does not have cutter threads on it so no junk to get out. This task was more of a PITA then removing the BJ's themselves. Moog needs to correct this IMO.

I purged the Moog grease out and filled them with Mobil-1. Also be sure when you install the zerk it is facing a direction so you can grease it. I know it sounds stupid, but there is only a small window where you can get a zerk in the space easily without removing anything so plan before you install it. Or just install the zerk once the BJ is on.

 

Hi nice article could you tell me the part numbers and brand of ball joints you used thanks...........Darin

 

I bought what everyone else recommended - Moog, and the part # for the lower ball joints is K80827. I bought two of them from Rockauto.com for $59.93 shipped. This price includes a 5% discount using the discount code listed here in TW.

 

Here's my old thread with the part numbers. picks are also shit in there http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...eplacement-part-s-general-bs.html#post3278586

 

Why in the hell wouldn't they thread the hole for the zerk???!!! Love Moog stuff, but that's dumber than a mud fence....

 

and pics fixed for the third or fourth time...

WTF... finally all the pics are from my photobucket account so no more funny business and if so I'm done fixing them if they change again. Also added in picks of the Moog BJ's with part numbers.

 

Finally got around to installing my Toytec ultimate lift coil-overs and LR UCAs (been sitting in boxes on my bedroom floor for nearly 10 months . . . long story). I noticed my factory lower ball joints were leaking grease, so I had a set of Moogs ready to go as well. While under the truck with everything apart I noticed my tie rod ends gushing grease too. Had to order a pair of Moogs and wait an additional day (nothing available locally).

This thread greatly helped w/ the ball joints. I did not use the torch method because I didn't want to have to paint my LCAs. Only big hurdle was the ball joint press kit I borrowed from Advance Auto didn't have the adapter required to press the old ball joints out. I resorted to a standard hammer, a brass hammer, and a brass punch. WHAT A BEAR!!!! I did have the adapter to press the new ball joints in, but getting them started straight/true - and keeping them that way - was tough. The press was quirky and kept applying unequal pressure. Once we figured this out, and on which side it applied more pressure, we worked around the issue and kept rotating the press during the install. Tie rod ends were a joke after finishing the ball joints. All-in-all I'm glad it's done, glad I won't have to do it again for a long time (hopefully), and I'm glad that now my lower ball joints AND my tie rod ends have grease/zerk fittings.

Thanks again, XXXX, for chronicling this procedure!!!!

 

Hey OP can you tell us how you know when to replace your ball joints?

 

I had multiple knocks coming from the front end. Boot to the BJ's was in bad shape and the grease looked like chocolate milk and leaking. I think I have pics in my build . I got by for a few months by shooting grease into the boot via a needle valve, but this is only a temp fix as the hole for the needle valve just made the leaks worse. If you are not having the same visible issues you can disconnect the spindle/steering stop from the BJ you can feel if it has any play in it. If it does have play they need to be replaced. If the boots are cracked and leaking they need to be replaced. I chose to also do my tie rods at the same time because they were also cracked and leaking with the same chocolate milk.

You got my number so if you have any other questions hit me up.

 

I also still have the old ones so if you ever want to feel what they feel like when going bad hit me up

 

here's my TRE

 

Thanks Boyd. I would say I'm a far way from being as bad as yours were, but I think I'd like to do them before driving to Moab.

If you jack the truck up so the tire is off the ground and try to wiggle the tire, you should be able to feel play if the ball joints are bad right?

 

welp it depends on what direction but if you feel slop doing a test like that it could be many things. LCA bushings, steering rack bushings, wheel bearings, UCA bushings, tie rods, etc.

Best bet is to isolate the play by checking each part. Also helpful to have someone in the truck with it running and check the wheel play. I would assume A set of eyes on the parts checking for play with one person behind the wheel seems like it would be best...not sure as I inspected each part by itself.

 

Yea I'm pretty sure there's something going on, just not sure where. Ill have to investigate some more

 

How many miles you got now?



Oh and where is my 6 pack sucka????