DIY: Sealing and deadening your door panels

The cld, mlv, ccf all help sound quality. The sealing of the holes in door does not AND it causes issues refitting the door panel if you use ccf and mlv between the cld covered door. That is my experience and I stand by it. I have Focal K2 components in the front and coax in the rear. Neither set of doors was helped by closing off the holes in the door. The CLD, MLV, CCF all block as much of the backwave as possible without sealing. I got zero improvement from the door sealing. It was your thread that got me to do it in the first place. I also discovered that you dont need to or want to put a closure plate on from the front as you demonstrated... you want to put it on from the back and not have to drill into any metal. That is my personal experience after attempting a mod you suggested and I attempted. I feel it is perfectly valid to express that, just as I feel its valid to say a lot of things wont work as descibed on this forum... like 295/70r17 tires fitting with a "little trimming" or use of MLV on the back wall of the DC making a noticable improvement if you have a sub box across the whole rear or 285s fitting with a Uniball UCA and caster within factory values. Experience has shown me that none of those are true. If you want to seal the door to block moisture... put the plate on the back/inner part of door. Door panel fits better that way.

 

Any tips/tricks to removing the door panels? Done them before on other vehicles but didn't know if there was anything hidden or tricky on our specific door panels.

 

Sealing the door in the event you don't have MLV is ideal for the reason DevL mentioned with regards to the backwave. I know that in my experience with my last car (Lexus IS300) I did seal up the doors WITHOUT MLV or CCF. It made a big difference. Could the same results using MLV and CCF? Probably. Our main goal in either case is to keep the backwave from interacting/cancelling the front wave. More than one way to skin a cat.

PS: The weep holes at the bottom of the door are OUTSIDE the door seal and shouldn't allow the backwave to hit the front.

 

Nice post hooked, 100% agree and know what you mean.

 

Woah.....calm down children. Play nice.

 

No, pretty straight forward. screws behind pull handle and door latch.

Clip up in the front toward the top of the door.

Take off the little sail panel covers first, then use your fingernails or pliers to get out the little white clips, then move on to the door.

Work around the outside for the clips holding the door on, then lift up a bit to get over the top lip.

Very easy doors to get off.

 

x2, very very easy

 

PS....if you're having problems getting your door panels back on after sealing just use some 80grit sandpaper to sand down the foam structured parts connected to the door panel. Takes about 3 minutes.

 

How much material would I need for this? The only stuff I found locally was .22"x24"x36" which seems like to much.

 

12' sq. did my driver side doors on an AC if that helps out your calculations any

 

That much for sealing the doors? Or are you talkin about sound deadening?

 

I sound deadened my doors this last weekend. I am planning on the roof and most of the cabin as I bought 100SF of B-Quiet. I am very pleased with the results and I would recommend.

I also upgraded my entire stereo at the same time and it sounds great inside the cabin now. . . no buzzing or rattling what so ever

 

Excellent work sir. Make sure you use the dampening in areas PRONE to vibration transmission or resonant surfaces. Meaning, dampen anything that would otherwise be a conduit for vibrations to other surfaces that will resonate and make noise. Highly structured areas like corners and attachment points don't require anything. The middle of flat broad surfaces is where you'll want to focus.

 

How do you take the headliner off without damaging it in order to do the roof?
I have a 012 Regular cab and it seems like the sub makes the open back side of the bench seat rattle , what can be done to fix that?
Thanks guys
Leonel

 

It's tricky getting the headliner out but it can be done. You have to take out EVERYTHING binding it to the roof. That includes the oh shit bars, A, B, C pillars and the overhead console and dome light.

 

Will the end result be worth all that trouble?

 

Yes.

 

Honestly, there's not a lot going on up there but I did it anyway. It's probably the most resonant surface in the entire car but it's so far away from any vibration source it's really only subject to air pressure and nothing is really transmitted to it.

That being said. I deadened mine.

 

Forgive me for posting in an older thread but it seems that sound deadening the lid might also help reduce noise from roof rack turbulence, they always seem to howl a bit.

 

Dont worry I was reading this old thread too, lol. Stumbled across it and read it anyway. I was wondering about the noise my rack makes so maybe I should do something with the lid. My light bar whistles like a sob as well. I dont often drive without the radio on but I think someone would know how to pinpoint and silence it. Ive heard that a company makes some type of plate or something that cuts out the whistling from the light bar but I couldn't find it.