Do you have DRLs, and have they damaged your headlights?

Mine were bubbling up and the clear coat was starting to peel and on top of it all they were starting to fog up. I got them replaced under warranty today. I'm glad I didn't do any mods to headlights.

New ones:

 

Alternate solution: Philips DRL Kit. Auto-On, Auto-off, wires up and installs in half an hour or less. No melting, and brighter, too!

 

thats a way better idea!

http://www.lighting.philips.com/in_...ent=89083467512&id=in_en_car_lighting&lang=en

 

Are the Philips kits cheaper than the Hella kits? I know the Hella kits are pretty expensive--I think in the neighborhood of $300+.

Off-the-rack LED replacement bulbs are not really the best solution, as they are often not bright enough or they do not really put out a light pattern that is optimal for the housing--and you still have the consumption and heat issue with added resistors.

So, here's my possible solution (I was too lazy last night to post):
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Yesterday I talked with Daniel Stern (http://www.danielsternlighting.com/), who is a highly-regarded automotive lighting expert. He has been helping me with a custom lighting solution for my Tacoma, which I will post when it is completed.

At any rate, he provided a suggestion that while it is not guaranteed to fix the issue, really should sufficiently mitigate it.

In the condensed version, GM had a significant issue with bulb life and blowing a lot of bulbs some time ago. So, they released a new bulb spec that rated the bulbs at 14v, instead of 12.8v that most automotive bulbs in the US are rated at--a much more realistic rating considering typical alternator outputs.

Daniel Stern suggests trying the 14v GM bulbs instead of the typical 12.8v bulbs, as they will run a little cooler than the currently-specified 4157NA bulbs. Since they will run cooler, they will be much less likely to burn the headlight housings. Additionally, the output difference between the bulbs is negligible, so performance will stay about the same.

The new bulb is a direct replacement, and the bulb number is: 5702KA.
The GM part number for the bulb is: 15233607.
It should be the bulb for a 2005 Saturn Ion.

There is also a clear version of the bulb available, and I have the part numbers, however since our trucks do not use any clear versions I didn't list it--but contact me if you would like it for another vehicle.

Stern suggests buying the bulbs from an actual GM dealer. He says that generally the "best" bulbs go into the production line. The "next best" bulbs--ones that meet the spec--go to dealer parts counters. The bulbs you buy in the auto parts stores are generally whatever is "left over" and works, but may not even truly meet the specification.

They are available from gmpartsdirect.com for $6.21/ea, but shipping may cost more than the difference from buying locally.

Also, when buying from a GM dealer, make sure and inspect the bulb and make sure the base says "5702KA". Some dealers just stick to stocking one part number, and only have the 4157's. They will not help, so don't buy them if they don't have the right number on the base.

 

SO its using an 1157 (or similar) dual post bulb? or are you saying its just a really large filament bulb. Switching to another would probably require a different socket. They key the prongs on the bulb differently. Assuming its an 1157 type bulb.

the DRLs actually blink with turn signals, not just "get brighter" like a brake/running light. Strange that they'd be a dual filament.

THey are bright, I would not be surprised if its a "running light bulb" with the "turn signal" filament lit.

Regardless, just get the LED equivalent, and the resistor to make the circuit think its a real bulb, if there's some need. I know it causes problems on certain cars in certain circuits. The typical resistor used for turn signals is a 6 ohm 50 watt. Available anywhere (on the internets).

 

Thanks, good info.
I will try this, it seems to be a simple and inexpensive fix.
I used to have an '02 Camaro and the DRL bulb housings got scorched.
And I have noticed a lot of GM pickups/suburbans with one DRL burned out, GM did have a problem.

 

ok noob question, sorry guys. What is DTRL?

 

Daytime Running Light

 

Both my right and left lenses melted and cracked from the heat within a year. Never brought it in for warranty since I wanted to change it for an aftermarket setup.

 

My dealer covered mine even with the aftermarket HID's. No questions asked.

 

I had this problem and had it fix with my dealer.

 

I'm gonna have to check this out tomorrow during the day.

 

DRL’s are factory in Canada so they definitely shouldn’t damage a headlight.

 

haha. "shouldn't" is the operative word. Mine were factory and they managed to damage themselves.

 

Checked mine out. On the drivers side there is a small amount of what looks like either bubbles/melting/pitting just above the center square diffuser.
I have an 09 with about 37k.

 

Mine are all factory and are all okay. It's been one year and five months.

 

I went to the local Chevy dealer today and bought a couple of the 5702KA bulbs.

I gave them the part number 15233607 and they told me that number has been replaced with number 13502321.
The price: $11.94 each ($6.09 at GMPartsDirect, I don't know the shipping).

The bulb, 13502321, is marked Wagner 12V 5702KA and the bulb in my truck is a Sylvania 4157NAK.

I have no idea if the 12V printed on the bulb is nominal and it's actually 14V or not.

The bulb is about 1/8 inch shorter though, so that moves it away from the lens. The filaments are arranged differently as well.

What the hell, I'll give them a try.

New bulb on the left in the picture.

I found these references which say the 5702 is a bit lower wattage and 14V but the lifetime in hours is shorter.
http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b.pl/5702ka~wagner.html
http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b.pl/4157nak~sylvania.html

 

I have this issue, and will have them replaced this Friday under Warranty under 100% GOODWILL per DOM? Whatever DOM means.
I was ready to write the NTSB about the safety issue prior to the dealership approving the replacement.
DRLs are a safety feature and should constitute a recall, and NOT a TSB.

 

If they were a mandatory safety item I am sure it would be, but they are still a option for the manufactures