DomeRock Module for Courtesy Rock Lights V4 by DSIM Solutions

I haven’t swapped around to cargo yet but my 9100 is currently triggered through my domerock. Just because I thought it would be cool to own a dome rock as I bought near the end of availability. I assume the negative trigger should work just fine on a 9100. I’m not sure if the 8xxx series had an ability to take a negative input.

I’d love to make more progress on that stuff and my 3rd Gen but I’m mostly focused on bumpers to clear out space in the garage.

I learn a lot from @ktbell444 though. He knows stuff. And @caribe makaira whenever I can get my brain to sync to his rpm’s.

 

This should work to maintain fading.
https://www.oznium.com/led-controllers/fade-in-fade-out

 

What I meant was matched fading to the dome. So, translating the negative PWM fade out to a positive PWM fade out and similar with the fade in. Not as easy to do. The oznium will be close but lag behind a bit both ways.

 

Have you guys looked at the vled footwell kit or specifically the module? The kit comes with a harness or pigtail. you could likely run a switch and related for on for Rock light but This works great for the fade. I think it used to work with the DSIM.

https://www.vleds.com/shop-application/footwell.html if you don’t use the module tie harness at least on 2nd gen faded as expected.

 

The module isn’t doing the fading on those kits. It’s 100% the wires I tapped with the harness.

 

Yah that’s what I was saying too. I didn’t see the harness for sale separate if someone didn’t want to tap

 

So I wired up my trigger-1 wire to the dome fuse in the driver footwell via an add a fuse and set the SwitchPro to react on an active low signal. Unfortunately it seems like the dome circuit is always hot, even when I've closed the doors and locked the truck. I was under the impression that the dome fuse circuit was a negative switch. Any idea what I fudged up?

 

You need to get the PWM - dome via A pillar tap. The fuse is +12v constant battery (also available in apillar T). You can't get it done with add a fuse as the ECU sends the PWM - signal to fade in/out so you have to get into that lead somehow.

 

Shame, even DSIM's a-pillar t-harness is OOS. I'll try to fab one up. Thanks for the tip!

 

They are a b, no, actually, they are a B, or more like a B!

I assume the footwell lighting kit is an easier starting point if you're willing to hack it up?

 

I had been eyeing that kit, that's not a bad idea. If I'm going to be barbaric and splice into a wire, it may as well not be the OEM harness.

Say I buy the kit. Which of the downstream wires should I splice the trigger into?

 

Probably best asked in the footwell thread and answered by Kyle. My kit got sent to someone else who filed a coa form on me so I don't even know what they look like (too lazy to buy a 2nd kit). Someday I'll pony up.

 

I'm late to the party, but suppose you just want to use a simple ON/OFF (SPST) switch instead of CH4X4 switch. I don't have any open switch panels.

BTW, I have a 2-gen and I'm using the Universal Kit.

 

I would wire it up similar to any other lighting accessory then. The reason the above looks so complicated is because they want to have the lights illuminate when approaching or unlocking the vehicle.

 

Anyone used this module with an Auxbeam switch panel? The panel uses solid state relays

 

The initial design was to turn the negative pulse into a positive switched, so should be fine.

@daveeasa , why buy (the T) when you could simply do the depin and Y the two leads you’d want…
Unless it’s the module you’d want.

 

Which T are we talking about and which leads?

People tend to be less confident about de-pin and re-pin for the most part so plug and play with leads is generally preferred when cost is reasonable. Often sourcing connectors is a bit of a challenge. For multi-position connectors, care is needed to ensure the pinout remains the same.

 

The pillar “T”. I just meant as personal, not for others.

 

I run puddle pods so I source +12v and dome PWM negative from the a-pillar. I did one T crimp on that connector, for switch illumination, and it was a fair bit of work. I’m not the best at crimping small stuff and double crimps on those terminals are extra hard.

It would be nice to eliminate the A pillar T entirely but that dome wire, whether as a trigger to other dimmers or used directly, is a useful one to grab.

 

been running these with no issues, but now all eight of my lights won't work.

Has anyone else run into this problem? Any suggestions?