Drive Shaft Lube Points 2nd Gen 4WD

Just lubed the chassis today, but the only zerks are for the u joints. I only count 5 from front to back. Is there no way to lube the slide yolks without taking the boots off? Owners manual says to lube slide yolks with moly. Doesn't make any sense to me that they would say to lube it and not have any way to do it. Truck is a 2011 TRD OffRoad 4WD Access Cab. Heres some pictures. Any input will be appreciated.
Also, I have the typical thump/bump when I stop and/or start to go. Its been doing that since around the time I bought it new.

***Just an FYI, I now have a DCLB 4wd and the lube points are the same as the Access Cab 4wd.***

**I reloaded these pics. I'm pretty sure they are in the right order. The only ones I'm not positive about would be the 'front differential' and the 'rear transfer case' photos.**

Front differential


Front of transfer case ( cant see the zerk from this angle)


Rear of transfer case


After carrier bearing


Rear differential

 

Correct

 

I count 5 in your pictures as well

 

I grease those same spots. I have also dropped the rear part of the rear driveshaft and re-greased the slip yoke with Molykote. Solved the thump for a while and needs to be re-done whenever I feel motivated again.

 

How many miles do you usually have to go between dropping your driveshaft? Seems strange Toyota didn't just put grease fittings on there. It almost seems that mine didn't have enough lube from the get go considering its been thumping from almost new.

 

It's strange and frustrating, but easy enough to look after yourself. I'll have to look at my records for the exact distance between re-lubes, but I can tell you that after only 16,000 km (ish) I had a new driveshaft installed under warranty. A second on came some time after (same thumping slip yoke issue), and here we are today, after one re-grease on the third driveshaft.

I just ease into the gas pedal to prevent jolting the drivetrain, just in case. Helps with avoiding racing off the line

 

Thanks for your input. I will have to look into this.

 

i havent been able to get to either of the ones on the front shaft yet :-/

 

They are a pain. You can rotate the shaft by hand to the position you need. I used a grease gun with a flexible tube. The grease fitting that is closer to the transfer case is easier to get to by removing the small heat shield that is in the way.

 

Great advice, too bad my heat shield bolts are rusted in. Pointing the zerk to the driver's side was my only work around.

 

Spray the bolts with PB blaster or some penetrating fluid and let it sit a day or 2. Try to break them loose. If that doesn't do it, then heat them up with a torch at crack them loose.

After that put antiseize on them and all bolts that you remove to prevent them form corroding.

 

If the bolts on his are anything like the ones on my exhaust there is no cure for the amount of rust.

 

There's always a way to get rusted bolts off.

 

Is that amsoil grease?

Jon

 

Oh I know, but mine would require destruction.

 

Mine required a new frame. That reminds me, I should get some milk of magnesia on those bolts this weekend.

 

Great advice! I don't have a torch, slowly building up my tool collection. I'm at the point where i'll need a small shed soon (a garage would be better).

 

Since I spent some time looking for the missing "fifth" zerk on my regular cab, I just want to leave this here in the event someone else runs across it: the regular cab has a 1-piece drive shaft, not a 2-piece, so there's no carrier bearing and no extra u-joint.

So you'll find only 4 if you have a regular cab. Ignore the picture showing the carrier bearing, and the other pictures all provide good references.

 

I got 65K on mine if the boot shows no leaks of grease it still should have all the grease it needs where is it going to go? The older ones had a grease fitting but no boot.

 

Correct. If the seal is good on the slip joint, no need to worry about it. However, some people have had issues with the slip joint binding up due to lack of grease from the factory. In which case the metal band needs cut off and the shaft dropped to grease it. I guess toyota didn't put a grease fitting at the slip joint so as to avoid people over filling the slip joint and causing hydro lock. Breaking the drive shaft.