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DriveShaft Question

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by in_a_coma, Mar 9, 2019.

  1. Mar 9, 2019 at 12:19 AM
    #1
    in_a_coma

    in_a_coma [OP] Member

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    Hello all member here!
    I have a question, I took My Drive shaft off today and took it to a local Driveline Shop. I was going to get the U-joint replace as well as the Carrier. But one of the techs told me I am better off buying a whole new driveshaft which will cost me about 750$.

    I have a 2004 Tacoma 4WD 6cyl double cab with about 275k on the car. do you think I can get away with just replacing the joints and carrier? or getting a new driveshaft is the best way to go thanks ahead!
     
  2. Mar 9, 2019 at 12:33 AM
    #2
    eon_blue

    eon_blue got boost?

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    Is the driveshaft rusted badly or damaged or something? Seems odd they'd recommend to replace it entirely unless it was in real bad shape.
     
  3. Mar 9, 2019 at 12:36 AM
    #3
    Ccrames2018

    Ccrames2018 Jack of some trades.

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    https://youtu.be/5gOeBE-ylQw
    Here's a video on how to do U joints. It's not for our trucks but should be very similar.

    https://youtu.be/Wdw29gYGw-w
    Here's a carrier bearing replacement for a 1st gen.

    What I'm wondering is, is there some form of damage to the driveshaft that is making him recommend a full replacement? If so, then it might be a good idea. I'd find out the exact reason behind it. If he says it's just for the u joints and carrier bearing, it wouldn't be worth the full replacement.
     
    in_a_coma [OP] likes this.
  4. Mar 9, 2019 at 12:53 AM
    #4
    in_a_coma

    in_a_coma [OP] Member

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    hmmm well he didn't say anything about driveshaft being damage, he just recommended due to age and high miles. how long can these driveshaft last before replacing it? thanks!
     
  5. Mar 9, 2019 at 12:55 AM
    #5
    eon_blue

    eon_blue got boost?

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    Lol sounds like they just want you to spend more money with them. Age and high mileage mean nothing to a driveshaft except replacing the joints and carrier bearing when needed. I would take it elsewhere or do the work yourself if you can
     
    Wyoming09 and mynewtoy like this.
  6. Mar 9, 2019 at 1:03 AM
    #6
    in_a_coma

    in_a_coma [OP] Member

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    Thanks for the answers! I think ill just replace the u joints and carrier. Thanks for the videos as well
     
    Ccrames2018 likes this.
  7. Mar 9, 2019 at 1:07 AM
    #7
    mynewtoy

    mynewtoy Didn't know this was a thing

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    That's the shadiest thing I have heard all day. I would never go back to that shop and tell everybody I know they try to rip people off. The only wear items are the U-joints and carrier bearing. The rest of the driveshaft is just a hunk of steel it will last forever under normal driving conditions
     
  8. Mar 9, 2019 at 7:29 AM
    #8
    Gyrkin

    Gyrkin Well-Known Member

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    Is perhaps your double cardan joint bad? If so, I can maybe see why they would recomend replacing the whole thing. No, actually still can't see replacing the whole thing, but it would be a much bigger job if the double cardan joint needs to be replaced.
     
  9. Mar 15, 2019 at 12:32 AM
    #9
    crankpin

    crankpin Well-Known Member

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    $750.00 ?? This may be new ? You can find used drive shafts at yards that specialize in Toyotas, for a fraction of that price. Check out these guys on E-Bay, then call them up.
    Plenty of used and like new driveshafts, driveline products. You should research "axle wrap", also for these Tacomas. Here is a post below from another forum on this, may not apply to your problem, worth a look.

    stoystownautowreckers (4620)
    99% positive feedback

    The axle wrap is why you get the drive line clunk... (though it may be mild)... Unless yer joints are bad or you are not lubing shaft up properly... It's the slip yoke shaft making that noise as the pinion changes angle and then snaps back after the load is released... that's why it happens when you are coming to a stop and your off the throttle... the springs are flexing or mildly wrapping under torque load... Wheel hop is the extreme side of what happens...
     
  10. Mar 15, 2019 at 11:18 AM
    #10
    Russianman92

    Russianman92 Well-Known Member

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    THIS. Where are the Ujoints @in_a_coma ? In this assembly?

    [​IMG]

    If so, they cant replace the u joints as the U joints are SUPER hard to get and would need special equipment to remove. These joints are Crimped in there from the factory so most shops cant do it at all so you would have to buy a new shaft. Spicer makes an aftermarket replacement that can be welded on with replaceable ujoints. Paid around 400 for parts and labor.

    [​IMG]
     
    cruiserguy likes this.
  11. Mar 15, 2019 at 1:40 PM
    #11
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like some up selling to me.

    Unless the tube is bent or twisted you park the truck in a liquid brine bath it can be rebuilt as often as you want.

    Mine is 19 years old

    $750.00 Maybe find another drive line shop Then pretty much Walk ins any where are raped!

    Your driveshaft would have to be completely destroyed not to just cut it apart replace the tube and install u-joints and rebuild the cardan joint.

    I have had quite a few rebuilt over the years
     
  12. Mar 15, 2019 at 3:15 PM
    #12
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TRD Supercharger,2"pulley,meth

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    V6 5sp,RegCab,TRD Supercharger, 2" pulley, methanol injected AC TRD supercharger,(MUST DO) TRD supercharger ported, rebuilt 3 times over 500,000 miles, every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Hella H4 German Rated Headlights HID 55 watt bulbs (MUST DO) 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 2” pulley,(300hp) (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, 4runner bucket seats, Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks chrome push bar, chrome nerf bars, add a leaf for rear springs trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Corbeau bucket seats Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Champion 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner
    Depending on your miles, my driveshaft gave up at 560,000 miles.

    Double cardan joint was going out and slip joint was going out too, clunking.
    I figured it was time to have everything new instead of fixing the
    old shaft. Cost me around 580.00 for the drive shaft made with
    Spicer joints that are now replaceable
     

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