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driving lights that come on with brights

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by jokerj80, Nov 20, 2012.

  1. Nov 20, 2012 at 9:58 PM
    #1
    jokerj80

    jokerj80 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    i would like to install my driving lights and i want to wire them to a switch but would also like them to come on when i hit my brights. so when the switch is on they come on when the brights are activated but when the switch is off they do not come on. any advice would help. thanks!
     
  2. Nov 20, 2012 at 10:38 PM
    #2
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    High beam hot feeds power to the switch.
    Switch feeds power to the coil on a relay that switches battery power to the aux lights.
     
  3. Nov 21, 2012 at 8:56 AM
    #3
    jokerj80

    jokerj80 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    uuhhh, ok? i was hoping for more detailed info.
     
  4. Nov 21, 2012 at 9:44 AM
    #4
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free Since 1983

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    Here's the extended version:
    Tap into the high beam power wire.
    Run a wire from that tap to your switch as the power input.
    Run the power output from the switch to the 85 terminal on your relay
    Connect 86 on the relay to the ground
    Feed fused power to 30 on the relay
    Connect 87 on the relay to your lights
     
  5. Nov 21, 2012 at 11:35 AM
    #5
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Lurker No More

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  6. Nov 21, 2012 at 11:40 AM
    #6
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free Since 1983

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    ^^Fancy!
     
  7. Nov 21, 2012 at 11:44 AM
    #7
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Good diagram Caribe, but IMHO, it's dangerous to be that exact on the pinouts on the switch, as there are 12 different configurations for the crap that they sell in auto parts stores here in the US... there's no telling what he will buy, and we're always reading reports of people connecting switches that include a ground and burning wiring because they somehow got the switch on the wrong side of the fuse, and hooked the ground to the wrong terminal.

    The ground-true switching is common, and really the safest way to do it, but it is not intuitive to most people here in the 48. We generally switch the hot and terminate the device at the ground.
     
  8. Nov 21, 2012 at 1:53 PM
    #8
    jokerj80

    jokerj80 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Wow dude thanks. That's exactly what I was looking for. Awesome job!
     
  9. Dec 12, 2012 at 6:06 PM
    #9
    AllanJackson

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    Caribe your diagram is great! But I'm curious how exactly that fuse thing at the bottom is implemented. Could someone clarify it or post pictures?
     
  10. Dec 12, 2012 at 6:13 PM
    #10
    AllanJackson

    AllanJackson Member

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    Also, I noticed in the diagram it says no cutting into oem wire harness.. Does that mean to get the power to the relay from the battery now? Pugga says to get the power from the high beam power wire.
     
  11. Dec 12, 2012 at 6:17 PM
    #11
    Chepo

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    What I did was to create an independent circuit for the new lights: Fuse directly from battery and a relay (which will turn on the new lights when you hit the brights).

    Then I looked under the the relay that controls Hi & Low Lights... then, I ran a wire from the pin that is activated when you hit the brights which is the "signal" for the new relay...

    Voilá! it is very simple

    How it turned out: (Blue wires are "signal" from Fogs and Brights)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Dec 12, 2012 at 7:20 PM
    #12
    AllanJackson

    AllanJackson Member

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    I thought about that too so I took off the relay for my high beams and touched my new relay to the fuse panel where the high beam activator would be but it still turned on my new lights with my headlights off. That is my problem! Is my car defective? Because its getting current to it even with the car off!!
     
  13. Dec 12, 2012 at 7:32 PM
    #13
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    The supply feed for the high beams is hot 24/7.
    Your truck is not defective.
     
  14. Dec 12, 2012 at 8:12 PM
    #14
    AllanJackson

    AllanJackson Member

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    Man this is confusing.. Basically what goes into 86 (the switch) on the relay so that when my high beams are on, so are my off road lights.. I can't figure it out.. Everything I try to hook it to seems to flip the switch even if the car is off
     
  15. Dec 12, 2012 at 8:24 PM
    #15
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    If you turn the headlights on, they, and whatever they trigger, will come on whether the car is on or not.

    Simplest thing is to feed the switch from the high beam wire on the back of the socket, then the switch feeds the relay on 86, 85 goes to ground.
     
  16. Dec 12, 2012 at 8:28 PM
    #16
    AllanJackson

    AllanJackson Member

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    What I am saying is it flips the switch WITHOUT my lights, car or anything on. I can't get the relay to turn back off
     
  17. Dec 12, 2012 at 8:44 PM
    #17
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Not going to be possible to troubleshoot that over the net.

    You have some kind of feedback loop wired in.
    Remove everything and find someone local that can help you in person before you burn your wiring system.
     
  18. Dec 12, 2012 at 8:48 PM
    #18
    AllanJackson

    AllanJackson Member

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    Alright well thanks anyways!
     
  19. Dec 12, 2012 at 10:12 PM
    #19
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Lurker No More

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    Maybe this will "paint" a better picture for your issue...

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Dec 13, 2012 at 8:01 AM
    #20
    AllanJackson

    AllanJackson Member

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    So you are saying for the head relay.. The switch in it doesn't matter, it is waiting to be grounded to be activated by the ECU. Btw, your diagrams are very clear! So my relay needs to follow the lines of ground it to where the head relay pin 1 is hooked to?
     
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