DRL Failures, Locker Indicator Flashing, and Chasing Electrical Gremlins

I bet if you have someone with a real scope and knows how to use it, you would see a lot more ripple voltage. That is probably what is killing your DRL's. The time division is way too large for the sample rate of that scope, so you will be missing a lot of data.

 

You ground at the battery's chassis ground?
Are the Raptor lights isolated from ground?

 

Yes, the raptor lights are grounded to the battery’s chassis ground. That ground connection goes directly from that stud to the raptor light harness (all four raptor lights share the common ground). The winch is grounded directly to the battery but there is nothing else connected to that chassis ground or the raptor light harness.

 

What I meant is, does any metal part of the raptor light contact ground?
I was trying to see if you maybe set up a ground loop.
You most probably have a ground loop now that you mention the winch and how it's wired.
Has the winch been present for all failures?

 

Nope, winch (and foglights) was only present for the third failure.

No part of the raptor light touches any metal part. They are just popped into the plastic Pro grille.

 

Is there anything else you've connected to the battery's negative post, battery's chassis ground or battery's engine ground?
If yes, is it metal and have a mechanical connection to the chassis? Was it present during all failures?

 

Nope, nada. The HID relay was grounded at the same point as the raptor lights when the HIDs were installed, but they were also not present for all three failures. Everything else on the truck is “plug and play” installed into the factory wiring at the factory connectors without any cutting/splicing at all.

The ONLY part that was installed for all three was the raptor lights.

 

they are probably the one and the same

 

this thread needs a tl:dr at the top of each page because some of you shit birds keep saying the same thing while completely ignoring what's actually going on.

having actually read every post and followed along since wednesday, i eagerly await the monday update.

OP's biggest mistake: he should've bought a Ridgeline

 

Nope.

 

Ridgelineownersclub.com has a nice write up on rigid lights behind the Ridgeline grill.

 

Ridgeline won’t take me where I like to go.

Rigid is local though, maybe I should look into getting rid of the Baja lights for Rigid. At least then maybe I could talk to one of their engineers about this signal noise...

 

this dude blew out his headlight cause his aftermarket LED bar was shorting out the circuit, I think his getting a lawsuit against Honda corp. right now cause they wont replace it for free, he wants them to troubleshoot the LED bar for him so they can implicate themselves.

 

Hey @BillsSR5 how about unlocking your profile so I can check our your builds and off road adventures and what-not? Always interesting to see that kind of thing!

 

You're such a troll.

 

I live across the street from rigid. Sell me those Baja's haha.

 

By any chance, have you changed your battery recently? Check to see if the wire going to the main fuse box is properly tightened on. I recently had electrical Gremlins and it was a nightmare.

Also, raptor lights seem to be the cause/or similarity to a lot of truck owners with electrical problems.

Good luck

 

For mine they listed the reasoning as LED circuit board failure. If you run current through it, it triggers another light or whatever. When you do it still carries current, just doesn't power on. Whatever supplies power to the LED's is what failed. That I tested.

 

Soooo u gonna sell me them bajas?