DRL Failures, Locker Indicator Flashing, and Chasing Electrical Gremlins

Wire one in, reverse biased, parallel with the add-a-fuse component (in this case the light) and feed the diode back into the circuit. That keeps the circuit balanced and will keep unnecessary current from loading the ground side of the circuit.

 

I’m confused about the recent test. So the only thing the aftermarket fogs (which caused the problem for all 3 failures despite not even being installed for the first 2) and the led drl is the grounding point (nearest the battery, which shares connection with the passenger side ground point)?

so adding grounds to the factory (by battery) ground point is not good? I think I have 3 grounds added to this point- front camera, Baja rock light (hood light) and hid harness.

 

Bad idea if I understand you correctly. Diodes are not designed to hold back current indefinitely, which sounds like what your trying to use it for. This is why there are diode failures on anytime backup cam circuits when people use the cam override for long periods of time.
Also I don’t think you’ll overcome the problem your seeing with this setup, I believe your problem is ground side not power.

 

Thanks for the great advice on the diodes. Ripped out the raptor lights today since they seemed like more trouble than good (even though they had zero signal noise). I also pulled the ECT extension connector from the MESO stealth ECT mod and plugged it back in to the factory ECT button.

I mean....it kind of looks like it’s on with the glare from the headlight right?

Driver’s Side (dead):



Passenger’s Side (working):


Tomorrow I’ll post up the screenshots of the test I got from the dealer today. Apparently the guy with the right program on his computer to stitch them all together was out today. There seems to be very little rhyme or reason as to what is causing the noise and even less rhyme or reason as to how that noise is killing DRLs. The service director says he doesn’t know what is causing the faults but “he doesn’t believe that we’re getting the full story on this truck from Toyota”. I’m not sure what to make of that but at this point, I’m just going to install the fuse panel, get my gears, compressor, and locker in, and go wheel some more.

 

OP, you can look into getting a paranoid fab mount to make a clean install, unless that kit you bought comes with one?

https://www.paranoidfabrications.co...oma/products/3nd-gen-tacoma-fuse-relay-holder

I believe I have the same fuse block/bus bar.

 

Yeah, the the kit I bought is actually just the install/accessory kit for the power tray from powertrays.com. I also bought the powertray itself.

 

Yeah, I mentioned it somewhere way down in this thread. Sounds like a grounding issue. Worth looking into. Hope you figure it out and thanks for updating everyone

 

Sounds like it. It would seem that the only other option would be spikes from the alternator but I would imagine that would cause some type of additional electrical malfunction and I have no other symptoms. Just this stupid DRL.

 

Nope. Didn't know that an LED Driver was a "Non-Linear" load. Never had a problem with any other type of fixture (HID) using this type of service.

 

Still sounds to me like you don't know anything about 3P / 4W circuits.

Theoretically -
You could have all 3 phases @ 15A, and you would have "0" current on the neutral. ( similar to a 3 phase motor)

Most likely you would never see all 3 phase in perfect balance. I don't remember the math to calculate the neutral load. But I do know that the load will be substantially less than any phase.
The only explanation (in my friends case) that we could think of at the time - would be NOISE. Probably generated from the Non-Linear loads? We do know that providing dedicated services would combat NOISE.

 

Sorry in advance for the awful quality on these images. Hopefully I can get the actual picoscope files here shortly or at least the screen shots directly instead of printed out (and scanned to share with you!). The testing was done with each item removed one by one. Upon further review, I don't think there is any way at all that any of the aftermarket parts are causing this issue, or at least that this proves that they are causing this issue. That being said, let me know what you think if the image quality is even useful enough for you:

Raptor Lights Removed:



Raptor and Fogs removed:



Raptor, Fog, License Plate Removed:



Raptor, Fog, License, Dome Removed:



Raptor, Fog, License, Dome, and Puddles (puddles removed at T harness) Removed:



Raptor, Fog, License, Dome, Puddles (puddles removed at T harness), and Map Removed:



Raptor, Fog, License, Dome, Puddles (puddles removed at T harness), Map, and Turn Signals Removed:



Raptor, Fog, License, Dome, Puddles (puddles removed at T harness), Map, Turn Signals, and Winch Removed:



Raptor, Fog, License, Dome, Puddles (puddles removed at T harness), Map, Turn Signals, Winch, and Stealth ETC Removed:

 

The voltage spikes are all still there! On every test! What changed from the first test that you showed? Absolutely nothing! Compare the tests to the other truck on the right. Next to no spikes. Then your truck. Lots of spikes. You still have a transient A/C voltage in your system! I would still be looking at the alternator.

Your original for comparison

 

I agree and will be contacting Toyota again today to see how they want to proceed.

 

I showed this thread to our mechanic yesterday and he sent me text this morning saying the exact same thing.

The exact quote was - "the first thing I check when we go through multiple lights on a unit is the alternator. "

 

Can you get them to test the alternator?

 

There is nothing discernible between their new readings as they all carry that stray voltage, even with everything disconnected. Whoever is running the shop or supervising the test clearly doesn't know what they are doing. Here's my unsolicited advice: take it to your local auto parts store. They will test the alternator for free. If it comes back positive (alternator is bad), find a reputable mechanic shop to do the same thing. It may cost a few bucks, but then you'd have two independent sources confirming the bad alternator. At a minimum, Toyota would have to test it themselves. If they confirm that it's bad, you'd likely be able to recoup the money you spent on the test, as well as getting a new DRL.

 

I will do that this afternoon (the autoparts store) and update you all with the results when I get back. It took me three tries to even get a hold of a CSR at Toyota today and of course my case manager is "on break" and all of the supervisors are unavailable at the moment. They are supposed to call me back today, but no later than the end of day tomorrow.

 

This reminds me of how Cummins wants diagnostics for warranty preformed. For example, black smoke. Root cause is not enough air or too much fuel. Cummins diagnostics tells you to go through the air and fuel delivery for blockages or air leaks but never wants the fuel injectors checked for problems. The problem of course ends up being injectors and because you went off diagnostics, Cummins won't warranty.

 

Going back into my starter/alternator/generator rebuilding days in Flagstaff in the early '90's....... woah.......

Have the alternator load tested. Also, have the battery load tested, remove battery terminals to do so.

Loading the alternator will help show if it has an internal problem like bad solder joints on the diodes.
A failing battery will do some really weird things, and loading it can tell its health.

 

Forgot to add, you can load test the alternator on a test bench. If there is a wiring/battery problem, the alternator on the test bench should "pass".