DRL Failures, Locker Indicator Flashing, and Chasing Electrical Gremlins

I'm assuming u didn't read the whole thread.

 

I read the first couple of pages, and the massive post by the lawyer close to the end. Did I miss something relevant?

 

Probably not, like I said, you are entitled to your opinion but I'm not sure why you think the failure wouldn't be covered if the mod-free scope test shows the same noise.

 

Have they done any post mortem on the lights themselves? I'm curious as to exactly what failed.

 

I’ve put in the Baja WC Fog Lights and if anything electrical somewhere thereof blows up I’d never take it to the dealer. Well, because the main reason is I never go to the dealer.

They can blame you for anything, especially something that leans toward your fault. You can yell Magnusin Furgoson act (or whatever the hell it’s called) all you want and Toyota can tell you to fuck off. They do it all the time.

 

It ain't even my taco so honestly it doesn't matter haha.

 

They have not. If the failure isn't covered, I'll be baking the housing and replacing the DRL so I can do an autopsy.

 

This type of thinking is the problem and is exactly why Toyota can and does tell people to fuck off all the time.

I don't understand why people think it is acceptable for Toyota to quite literally break the law but not for anyone else to do the same.

 

If it’s not stock, it’s modded. Am I wrong?

 

I hope you win, but the odds are stacked heavily against you. I’ll STFU now and watch from the sidelines.

 

Not sure if the post is about humor or actual fact, but the point is that modded or stock the responsibility, under the law, falls on the manufacturer to diagnose the failure before they deny the warranty claim, not after.

 

I appreciate it. Not the shutting up thing, I have no problem with people sharing their opinions as long as they don't mind when I argue against them if I don't agree!

 

That DRL circuit is fickle!

I posted a mod to power a basic low amp 12v dash cam to keyed and full time power by tapping into the mirror light power (keyed) and the overhead map light wire (full time power).

The keyed one tapping the mirror power works great, bit the one tapping the full-time dome light power caused the DRL’s to not work! So there could be several seemingly unrelated things causing the DRL’s to fail.

 

Do you know what test points they were using on the scope test. I’d be interested to know if it was at the battery connection, DRL circuit or elsewhere. You literally can buy a decent scope for around $300 on Amazon and could find another member who would allow you to use their vehicle as a comparison to your readings. I think the investment in the scope and some digging will pay dividends and help you get to the bottom of your problem. Good luck with your fix.

 

After I mouthed off about returning to stock, I actually looked at your truck. Going back to stock isn’t going to be a trivial proposition for you.

It would be nice to think Toyota corp would dig deep and figure this out for you. Maybe they will. Although they are now headquartered in Texas, I don’t think the Texas spirit is yet ingrained in their culture.

You might actually push that angle. It would seem a Texas based company trying to build a rep would want to figure this out. In fact, it could be a great PR and Marketing endeavor. After all, they sell more units if they are third party market friendly.

I wouldn’t count on it, but maybe it might be prudent to downplay the lawyer muscles and go after something they can use.

 

Reading comprehension is fundamental... If you re-read my post, I said most problems people have here on Tacomaworld, not regular owners. Of course so.e of these trucks have problems in stock configuration. Nothing is perfect.

 

I don’t remember when but at some point in this saga I did try the “doesn’t Toyota want to figure out what is wrong with these trucks? You showed the same symptoms in a stock truck” route.

Didn’t get me very far. In all honesty, I think Toyota is used to people just giving up and that is what they were expecting here originally.

 

I am not 100% sure what ground was used. They told me it was the same grounding point as the DRL. I haven’t seen my truck in over 20 days at this point so I’m not sure where that point is. I will definitely get that info tomorrow after the additional testing is done though.

If tomorrow’s testing doesn’t resolve this issue, an oscilloscope is definitely on my “Christmas list”.

 

If you can get the exact test points, I can take a look at mine and try to give you some comparison readings, I don’t have a 2019 but do have the factory led DRL lights on my 2017

 

kind of like auto mechanics!
back in the 80's before the earth cooled I was a dealership tech. people would buy base model trucks and have a decent stereo installed. the vehicles I worked on used the ground through the rheostat to dim the dash lights. the stereo would tap into that circuit to dim the display when the headlights would turn on. since the stereo had it's own ground circuit the dash lights would not dim. every time one of these "brand new trucks" came in for this problem I had to pull & unwire the stereo to confirm the problem. since they just bought a new vehicle and were "a good customer" this service was provided as a courtesy - meaning I got to do this for free - since it was not the manufacturers fault. I'm sure as a civil litigator you are compensated for your abilities and education - as well you should be. but in this battle to repair the vehicle you modified and toyota can't figure out is a guy trying to make a living that deserves to be compensated as well. technicians buy their own tools for 10's if not 100's of thousands of dollars, go to classes or trade school on their own dime and time. before you say they don't want fix your truck put yourself in the shoes of the guy that gets to show up for work and see "that civil litigators truck" sitting in the space they need to use to make a living.