DRL Failures, Locker Indicator Flashing, and Chasing Electrical Gremlins

How does everyone keep missing the point that he's not trying to get shit repaired for free? It blows my mind.

 

They only see what they want to see. It's the Tacomaworld "Hijynx" if you will......

In all honesty, I'm alright with it. Like I keep saying, everyone is entitled to their opinion; even if some of those opinions are based on an incomplete set of information because they refuse to read the thread before they respond.

 

That's one of the biggest lessons u can learn: They only see what they wanna see. It's just a bummer!

 

So I finally got the truck back tonight to pull things apart in preparation for tomorrow's dealership testing. I was able to look at where I grounded the raptor lights (I knew it was a body ground but wasn't certain which one). They are grounded directly to the body ground for the battery at the stud (one end of the curly wire). I'm guessing that would indicate, based on your prior post, that the battery would handle any voltage spikes which may coming from the raptor lights? If that is the case and I can effectively "rule out" the raptor lights then things make even less sense. Other than the raptor lights, no aftermarket parts have been installed on the truck for all three failures.

 

That is a great comparison, except that I am paying for the additional diagnosis at the normal customer pay shop rate.

 

I completely agree with you, and more importantly they know that the $1600 headlight (INSANE price) isn't the repair that is going to push the "average joe" over the edge.

 

I agree. apparently I've seen things you have not.
good luck & I hope it gets fixed
and I like how the first word in your original post is "disclaimer"

 

As I was making the "key" for the dealer disconnecting all aftermarket parts tomorrow during testing I remembered that the following were also installed:

1. MESO Customs Stealth ECT Button - Installed in May 2019
2. LED License Plate Bulbs - Installed in June 2019

I don't think either of these are involved as neither were installed for all failures but I wanted to make sure that anyone following along has the full set of info, and again, I'm sure Toyota is watching.

 

Don't flatter yourself. Toyota sells 25K Tacomas a month. This website is an enthusiast's hangout and the owners are as far from the normal consumer as you can get. Toyota does not have teams of people to monitor everything Tacoma.

 

Wait, what is Toyota watching again?

 

Just going off of what @OVTune mentioned in his thread that they monitor the forum. If I'm wrong that would be great!

 

Lol this is a place where a 12 yo kid can own a Pro and post how he hates it and nobody would know. This is a place where a Ford owner can pretend to own a Tacoma, or a 16 yo dreamer can tell everyone how much he loves his pretend Tacoma. We truly don't know as there is no accountability.

Toyota has hundreds of focus groups of all target demographics. They have owners and potential owners. They know all metrics of each member of the groups. This is who Toyota pays attention to... the people buying the trucks and cars. For problems, they have a huge pool of data from their 1200 dealer's service department.
Lol not Tacomaworld.

 

Which are you? The 12 or 16 yo?

 

So many things going on here...

I'm an electrician, and I've tried to read as much of this thread within reason to help out. First and foremost, the issue is most likely anything you've added to the DRL lighting circuit. As others have mentioned, LEDs run on very low voltage, and you introducing unchecked accessories and lights into that circuit increases the current draw unless you've also included protection and regulation components. It could be just enough overload to pop the one DRL, which could be the first load on the circuit, or the weakest, or both. By removing it, the circuit can continue to operate as normal. And forget about the raptor lights, for now, since you've put them on a separate circuit. Not enough voltage or noise to jump across the ground to take out the DRL.

Second, you don't need the dealer to diagnose this for you. I assume the 3 failures probably occurred over the relatively same amount of time, unless something else changed between each failure. So by disconnecting your mods, basically going back to stock, if another failure occurs, it could likely be attributed to the factory wiring, assuming you didn't ground it out when installing the mods.

Third, you don't need to spend $1600 on a headlight assembly. Rock Auto has them for $3-400, CAPA certified. $150 for the cheapos.

 

The ford owner.

 

Thanks for reading through the thread and providing some solid info! Nothing at all is connected to the DRL circuit, that's why this is so perplexing. As far as new headlight assembly, no way I'm paying for a new housing. I'm going to open up the housing and replace the DRL board if Toyota doesn't cover it.

 

@Kens04Taco

 

The cognitive bias is real. It's perplexing. Psychology is a trip.

 

Most, if not all, of the lighting circuits are connected somewhere. They have to be to perform logical functions like turning off the fog lights when the high beams come on or dimming/shutting off the DRL when the blinker comes on (not certain if our trucks actually do this, but you get the point). I don't know how all of your mods tap into the source power, whether it's factory plugs or splicing in, but if they're on a lighting circuit, they don't match the factory specs, and no circuit protection is added, you're gonna have a bad time...

 

Love the South Park reference.