Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

This should work as long as you don't have aftermarket headlights.

 

what would be the issue with aftermarket HL? different size shape?

 

With HID's you have the igniter sticking out the back- it COULD work but depends on the battery and would be very tight.

 

It should work. Just keep in mind that two batteries in that location is a lot weight and can tear your radiator support over time.

 

ok cool thanks for the info much appreciated
also does your PDS kit come as shown in the pic when selecting the Tacoma braket w/80a breaker and switchback low options? (with out the actual switches of course)

http://cart.iggycorp.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=75

 

Yeah it comes with everything pictured except the switches. Unfortunately i'm not making them right now. I may have enough parts to make 1 but it might take me a while.

 

No rush I’ll place an order with you now and just ship it when ever you get around to finishing it I still have the lights/bumpers the lights go into/prinsu to buy before I actually need the PDS not to mention the dual bat.

 

Ok, let me confirm I have everything and I'll PM you the details.

 

Lookin for some advice. I’ve had my dual battery set up installed for about a year now. Super happy with how it performs. Does exactly what I need I to do.

Run down -

About 10ft (OEM battery location to passenger side inner fender) of 1/0 wire between the 2 batteries using an ML-ACR.

It’s been set up with no fuse between either batteries and the ML-ACR since day one. I’ve seen multiple set ups like this done with no issues.

I would like to add fuses between the batteries and the ML-ACR just for peace of mind in case something we’re to happen.

I was looking at the Blue Sea MRBF terminals because I know others do use them.

My questions are -

1. What amperage fuses do you typically run to be able to self jump with the ML-ACR?

2. Is it necessary to add one to each positive battery terminal or is this overkill?

3. For those of you who do run them, lets see em.

Thanks.

 

I use a thermal circuit breaker rated at 200 amps between the house battery (in the bed of the truck) and the ML-ACR in the engine bay near the starting battery.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7149/187-Series_Circuit_Breaker_-_Surface_Mount_200A

This circuit breaker is rated to actually handle up to 600 amps for 10 seconds before tripping. See the graph/chart on the BlueSea information page for more details.

 

I just purchased a Off Grid Engineering for my 3rd gen and am trying to find a good spot to mount “the big red ugly button” blue sea battery button. Can y’all give me some pics of where you mounted yours please? Thanks

 

You don’t have to use that switch.
If you want a different one or are willing to loose part of the switch control.

For instance I am using a simple small toyota push button switch. Therefore in my case the system is automatic all the switch does it force the link. I did this couse how often do you need to force a disconnect?

 

Oh ok, I didn’t know that. That’s a new option! Thanks

 

im new to the dual battery set up game. whats this big ugly red button look like? and why would you need to force a disconnect? do the accessories automatically pull from the secondary battery or you have a switch to turn on the battery access then turn on said accessories?

 

ah very nice I like that look of that. did those come with the dual bat kit from OGE?

 

no i made my own kit

 

I couldn’t think of a reason easly, therefor I got rid of that part. And I want switched and stuff in the cab to look factory. Dident wanna chip up the interior too much.
Depending on how you wire it accessories can pull from either battery. The ml-acr will automatically disconnect when the voltage of either battery goes below a certain point.

 

Hahaha. For the life of me, I could not figure out what the hell you were referring to.

Some reasons for having an in-cab ml-acr 'ugly switch':

To force link the two batteries even when at dissimilar voltages. Examples of when that might be are, when you have to self-jump start yourself because the starting battery has failed and when/if you are doing extended winching.

To have a visual indicator when the batteries are disconnected.

To have a visual indicator when the ml-acr is a a Fault state.

To manually keep the two batteries separate. An example if this is to manually control when the ml-acr links the two batteries together.

 

I’ve used the switch to force connect the two batteries. The lights on the switch also serve as an error indicator. If there is a malfunction in the system the lights will blink.

On the force disconnect option, I have used that when I run the winch (connected to the start battery). I don’t want to over pull amps through the MLACR so I disconnect the two batteries.