Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

If it is a Group 31, you are going to run into fitment issues if you want a second group 31 like i did. you will have to do a similar mod to what i did.

 

Yeah, not interested in cutting, drilling or relocating anything electrical. I'll have to find another location.

 

For guys looking for reserve capacity look into the data sat batteries- north star, c&d etc. They come in at a much lower price point, and come in a variety of shapes and sizes.

The nsb 90 used to be the very best battery for competition car audio set ups with limited batteries. I know quite a few people with the nsb's in their trucks as main batteries and wouldn't change it for the world.

http://www.northstarbattery.com/batteries/nsbblue/index.php

Their group 31 starter battery for example is a 102Ah @ 20 amp draw battery.

XS power also makes a wicked 3100(110ah) series and 7500 (140ah) as well as a 3000 series 120 ah
http://4xspower.com/shop/d-series/d3100/

 

i would never put 2 group 31s beside each other on these trucks. Its wayyyy to much weight on one corner. i would say 90-100# would be the most in an absolute sense id add.

For people looking for dual battery set ups they should all look for the MOST AH @ 20 amps vs Weight ratio. The best ratio wins

 

Can't believe I forgot to subscribe to this thread! Some really awesome ideas, similar to what I have built.

Personally I would advise against putting a battery in a bed-side. The reason being that in an accident, that area of the bed is mostly unprotected. Even at a low speed impact the battery could get crushed, and shorted out, leading to possible fire. I always suggest putting a second battery either under the hood, where it is protected from the majority of all low-speed impacts by the frame and front end, or in a bed box in the middle section of the bed, inside the frame rails.

Nice looking setup there!!

As I mentioning earlier in this post, I would suggest running both batteries under the hood. This will allow for the shortest routing of any and all large cables, and keep them protected. I have built both a paired battery design (both batteries paired in factory location) as well as a "divorced" battery setup where the second battery was located in a tray on the passenger's side.

In general to this thread: Yes, I know I am tooting my own horn here with the battery management systems, but the reason I prefer the ones I build and sell is because the MAJORITY of the time, we want a system for overlanding and being "off-grid". The fancy electronic systems have modules and automatic controls and such that are potentials for failing to work. You really need a system that has the LEAST amount of moving parts and components that can fail. My system is all mechanical, and can be bypassed easily as well if the situation ever came up. Another thing is that I see most of the management systems are showing only a 40 amp direct-connect solenoid. Every single alternator available in a second gen is at LEAST 90 amps if memory serves correctly. So why is this a bad thing? Well, let's say your secondary battery is discharged, or is connected to a component that draws 70 amps of current. The automated systems are rated at 40 amps, so all you will get in general is 40 amps. Eventually, even with the engine running, the component will discharge the secondary battery, and the load will also at some point run out of current draw.

My systems are designed based on what you are building. If you need a 130A system, I can make it, 200A? 250A? My systems are built to handle them all. AND they are manually operated, with only ONE electrical solenoid, rated at whatever your charging system is rated to put out.

Oh, and I do offer 100W and 200W solar charging/maintaining systems as well. Just sayin...lol.

 

I understand that. Was not my initial plan. I wanted to get my engine bay @100% before I start moving the battery around. Initially, I had a deal worked out for 2 of the Lithium Ion Battery's. Deal fell through, hoping it comes around again.

Doing a SC and Snorkel eventually. Had debated over getting the different Master Cylinder and ABS all in one setup. Would be able to relocate and free up that area on the passenger side.

 

@Bill, you have a site for offerings?

 

Bill makes some excellent points about protecting the batteries and recharging current, especially for the 100+ AH batteries. I would add that especially in hot climates, locating the battery(ies) away from the high underhood temperatures will significantly increase their service life. This is because the excessive heat accelerates the grid corrosion which can cause a premature failure. That said, if you install a wet lead-acid battery (as opposed to an AGM or Gel Cell VRLA) in a "living space" like the cab or camper, it requires proper venting of the hydrogen gas produced during the absorption charging phase and access to add distilled water. So if possible, the bed location could be a better choice, notwithstanding the larger battery cables required for less the voltage loss.

If you use AGM or Gel Cell VRLA batteries, please make sure that your charging system(s) supplies the battery manufacturer's temperature compensated charging voltage, so they can be fully charged which can also cause premature battery failures. Lead-acid batteries need to be periodically fully charged to prevent sulfation.

 

Regarding the Peak DBI led dual battery monitor Linus installed:

Although it is available on eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-LED-dou...er-indicator-for-car-4WD-camper-/321316229493) for $20.95, shipping is $30. You can purchase it directly from Peak DBI here:
http://peakdbi.co.za/product/12v-led-double-battery-voltage-level-monitor/

It'll run R 210.00, which is $19.53, to Missouri cost $3.46 shipping, for a total of $22.99.

Combined with the Blue Sea ML-ACR 7622, this looks like the perfect setup to me.
I'm going to mount my second battery behind the rear passenger seat like Alex:

Coupla questions though:
The optima yellow top is deep cycle, with this setup can I be sure there are no issues (premature death of optima) if I keep (for now) my original battery as main up front?
What model number of optima would you recommend (for aux)?
Keeping an eye on $$ (no lithium), what battery combo for front (main) & rear (aux) would you recommend?

 

Get as large as you can fit for a second battery. A Group 31. If you are spending the money. Might want to consider one of the Diehard Platinum Group 31's from Sears. Theres a thread on here somewhere with the sears discount code. You get them at a great price.

A single group 31 WILL fit in the stock location. Just buy the extension hooks from the local Auto Parts store for $3-$4 and you are ready to go.

 

I have most everything in my threads that are linked in my sig. I have been working on production of the Stage 4 and Stage 5 Kits, but I don't have pics of them yet. The issue is that since so many people have different locations for their batteries, as well as different alternator requirements, I can't offer a "standard" kit. Each one is custom made to order. But the general information is in the 1st and 2nd gen upgrade links.

I realized I quoted this and forgot to type in my answer! Sorry! Personally because of expected duty type, I recommend the Red for the main truck battery, and the yellow for the secondary battery. The Yellow is a deep cycle type designed to handle the extremes of draining and recharging much better than the Red is. As for what model number, that would be dependent on several factors from battery location, (which limits battery size depending on location) to what type of expected loads you want the secondary battery to deal with on a regular basis.

 

installed the 2nd aux battery (will be replaced with a yellow top soon) made a bracket to hold the tire to just barely touch the battery when the spare is tightened up.

next up is all the damn wiring lol

 

I like the location. pretty well protected there. Which shackle flip kit do you have? And if you need any help with the cabling, let me know.

 

i think its a all pro ubolt flip and some ruff stuff shock brackets and a custom upper mount. cabling i have under control but you do make a great product. if you look at the left, you can see the 0ga wire hanging. its lime green with protective covering on it.

 

That's some might purdy wire ya got thar son!

 

Got to love that ML-ACR too!@

 

Yeah, just stupid-expensive. I'd rather have a manual control with isolator myself. Less things that can go wrong with it.

 

Your correct. However, I haven't come across any failures on one yet. Besides, i see them on eBay sub 100 all the time. There was a 'lot' of them a month ago, store closing, for $200 ish for 10 sealed unused units. Was not planning on selling them, plus no need for so many so I passed. Bought a ton of heat shrink rubbing from him cheap though, couple terminals too.

 

Can the ones you saw on eBay handle 250+ amps of current for charging though? Not just for jump connections. See, that is the thing that I have been researching. LOTS of these automatic battery charging controllers, but many of them are set to handle 200, 300, even 400 Amps of JUMPING current, but when it comes to charging, they only run 40-60 amps, which is WAY too low. So that is why I had stopped looking at any of them. That and I don't like to rely on so many electronic devices when dealing with overland trips, or off-grid travel.

 

The ML-ACR 7622 that most people are using is 500A continuous.

Seems Blue Sea isn't manufacturing the 7622 anymore...
But this has the same specs iirc:
http://www.bluesea.com/products/7700/ML-RBS_Remote_Battery_Switch_with_Manual_Control_-_12V_DC_500A

7622 specs:
http://www.bluesea.com/products/762...rging_Relay_with_Manual_Control_-_12V_DC_500A