Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

What’s you guys opinions on this? I was trickle charging my batteries before I could get them installed and I noticed the case is cracked around the post. I took it off the charger and it was a little “wet” around there. (Two batteries bought the same day, only one did this) put both batteries on trickle chargers after a few weeks of being off and they charged up in the same time frame. Should I glue this piece back to the plastic? Not worry about it?

 

I wouldn't think it would cause any issues an long as you seal that hole back up. But you could contact Northstar and ask them. They'll probably say its fine, but might offer something else, idk. (Im assuming its a Northstar battery..)

 

It is a NorthStar. I’ll contact them, thanks

From NorthStar -
It seems that the cosmetic snap fit terminal cap was broken. This could of happened if pushed inward. This does not impede the performance of the battery, and is merely there for cosmetic reasons. If you see below the brass terminal the bottom of it is a hex head which can be backed out if needed, this cap just covers this gap between the battery lid and cover. The seal of the battery is still intact. You can certainly glue back the cap if needed.

 

X2Power group 31 fed via a CTEK D250sa DC to DC charger

More pics and details here

 

Good to know.

 

Looked through your build thread beautiful work, but didn't see (or missed it) where is the CTEK fed from, your alternator or the starter battery?

 

Thank you.

Main battery via 4 gauge 100% OFC USA made wire from GPcaraudio, check out post #31 .

I'm getting ready to replace my main battery with an X2Power group 27F.

 

Does anyone run a non-agm house battery? Id like to go group 31 since i have the passenger fender conpletely open.

Have a new starting battery less than a year old so i dont want to change it. I know mixing agm and lead isnt going to give the best results since the agm wont get full charge

 

Why do you want to?

I run 2 identical batteries, that way if my starting battery goes bad, I can physically swap batteries and continue on my way.

 

Specifically looking for added capacity. The isolator i have is supposed to keep the starting battery separate when under 12.8v. I could run agm and lead but idk if id see the full benefit of agm since it wont get the necessary higher charge rate?

 

Its not recommended to mix battery types because of the charging problem like you said, but also discharging rates and voltages. They dont like that. So I would make the house battery whatever type your starting battery is (probably just a regular wet lead-acid) unless you plan to install a dedicated DC-DC charger for the house side.

Also, I dont think a group 31 will fit anywhere in the engine bay of these trucks except in the stock location. Even then thats tight. People typically run a group 35 on the passenger side

 

nah im not planning to add a dc-dc charger at this time. simpler the better im thinking. just trying to get extra run time on my fridge without killing the starter battery when the truck doesnt run for 2-3 days.

i dont have the air pump in the way anymore so i was thinking ill have plenty of room but i havent done measurements yet

fridge i have:

 

Make sure you check the height too. I think thats an issue on the passenger side, but Im not 100% sure

 

You can but most people want the runtime and charge/drain cycle advantages that are attributed to an AGM/deep cycle battery. Standard flooded cell batteries don't hold up well to the deep discharge that most people put their house batteries through.

 

What he said.

Also, AGM batteries hold up to the rigors (vibrations, etc.) of off-roading much better than wet cells.

 

That's a great idea! I would do that myself but I plan on getting a CTEK 120 Smartpass to go along with my CTEK D250sa. The CTEK 120 smartpass will backfeed the main battery from the secondary battery to assist starting if the need arises. The only drawback is you have to do a run of 1/0 AWG wire from the CTEK 120 smartpass to the main battery to support the current.

 

Do deep cycle flooded cell batteries not do very well? Duracell has one for like $150 w/ 100ah. Pretty cheap and if i got a couple years out of it id be content. Really its only going to get loaded a few times a year.

 

I was reffering to standard flooded cell batteries, like the starting battery.

 

Ah misread your post

Do some measuring tonight to see what i can fit

If anyone is curious:

https://www.batteriesplus.com/produ...ne-and-boat/deep-cycle/bci-group-31m/sli31mdp

 

I am running the CTEK 250SA. I considered getting a SmartPass, but could not determine how much I actually needed it.

Jumping/running the truck off the 2nd battery is something I wanted with dual batteries. I originally planned to use an ML-ACR, but since we have smart alternators, I had to re-think my design. Now, I carry a jump-pack to start the truck if the main battery dies.

However, twice in my 30+ years of off-road travel, my starting battery physically failed. Once, I relied on a jump start from another truck (old, non-computer carbonated truck). The second time, I just switched the ACR.

As they say, modern problems require modern solutions. Hence, the D250SA. If my battery physically fails, I can swap with my secondary in about 15 minutes. Of course, then my fridge won't have power - but I can drive home.