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Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by MJonaGS32, Sep 20, 2013.

  1. Aug 11, 2020 at 4:23 PM
    #2781
    4wdExplorer

    4wdExplorer Well-Known Member

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    So I am intalling my Redarc DC to DC charger. Do I need make a full run of the negative wire from Starter battery to the Auxillary battery? I am just thinking of making a chassis ground for Auxillary battery? Is this okay to do?

    Looking at the Redarc Instructions on page 11. It dispays a chassis ground at the Auxillary battery in the diagram. When searching I see some people making a full length ground wire run from starter battery to auxillary batter.
     
    Dalandser likes this.
  2. Aug 11, 2020 at 4:30 PM
    #2782
    thebaker

    thebaker Well-Known Member

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    I'm in the process of finishing my redarc install. I ran the negative all the way back to starter battery.
     
  3. Aug 11, 2020 at 4:34 PM
    #2783
    SearArtist

    SearArtist Player Hater #001

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    chassis ground should be fine.
     
  4. Aug 11, 2020 at 4:37 PM
    #2784
    4wdExplorer

    4wdExplorer Well-Known Member

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    Got it I think I will do the same. I will do a chassis ground for the bluesea fuse box in the bed of the truck.

    I am also thinking of adding the Redarc low voltage disconnect in the future. The current layout the Redarc does not isolate the starter battery. So when running accessories off the house battery you could potentially drain the starter battery without an isolator.

    Here is the battery setup behind the rear seat. 125ah battery.

    IMG_0317.jpg
     
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  5. Aug 11, 2020 at 4:48 PM
    #2785
    4wdExplorer

    4wdExplorer Well-Known Member

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    I am thinking a chassis ground is fine too. The starter battery is chassis ground also. Going to make sure I sand off the paint behind the rear seats where I bolt the chassis ground cable to.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2020
  6. Aug 11, 2020 at 8:15 PM
    #2786
    MountainManGuy

    MountainManGuy Well-Known Member

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    Chassis ground is absolutely fine. I connected the ground from my aux battery to the frame. Works great. Did the same back in my car audio days and those amplifiers pulled way more current than any load you'll be throwing on that aux batt.
     
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  7. Aug 12, 2020 at 4:59 AM
    #2787
    Scott B.

    Scott B. Well-Known Member

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    Chassis ground is fine - probably preferred.

    I ran mine this way several years ago, and have not any problems. Also, used the chassis for ground on my previous truck with dual batteries.
     
  8. Aug 13, 2020 at 9:06 PM
    #2788
    yaapp

    yaapp Well-Known Member

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    URD CAI front: Fox 2.5 w/ reservoir 700lbs coil Camburg UniBall Rear: 2.5 w/ reservoir
    Soooo I am planning to a dual split system but I have a few questions I hope you guys can help me answer

    Plan is to get a passenger tray from off-grid (unless there's other ones out there you suggest), question here is, do I need to replace both batteries or can I just my Deka 9a24f I just brought a few months ago as my starter?

    With the ML-ACR, do I have to run the switch? Was looking at the SI-ACR but it feels like a lot of you lean towards the ML
     
  9. Aug 14, 2020 at 8:40 AM
    #2789
    SR-71A

    SR-71A Define "Well-Known Member"

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    Mobtown sliders, ARB bar, Icon RXT leafs, extended & adjustable Kings, JBA UCAs, Tepui Ayer 2, dual batteries, Gen2 xrc9.5 winch, CB, GMRS, S1 ditch lights...
    Switch is for convenience only. The ML-ACR will operate normally without it, or you can pop the hood and manually lock it out.

    Its always best to match the battery type (chemistry), size, and age when running multiple. Size is not really an option in these trucks, and a few months wont make a huge difference.
     
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  10. Aug 15, 2020 at 2:46 PM
    #2790
    JEEPNIK

    JEEPNIK Well-Known Member

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    Curious about the need to match batteries. Since 82' I have run a battery with cranking amps to start my Jeep and a deep cycle to power my winch and such. Are you concerned about the difference in charging characteristics?
     
  11. Aug 15, 2020 at 10:26 PM
    #2791
    Digiratus

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    Lead-acid plate starting batteries and agm type batteries have very different charging needs for optimal battery health and longevity. Also, as batteries age, their charging characteristics change. If the batteries in a dual system do not match, the ability to fully charge one or the other will be compromised.
     
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  12. Aug 16, 2020 at 6:42 AM
    #2792
    JEEPNIK

    JEEPNIK Well-Known Member

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    How? What happens to the battery that causes damage? What damage?
     
  13. Aug 17, 2020 at 8:28 AM
    #2793
    MountainManGuy

    MountainManGuy Well-Known Member

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    There is no damage. I don't really get why people keep saying you have to match the batteries exactly. You really don't.

    I ran a setup where one battery was group 34 and one was a smaller group 51. The group 34 battery was 4 years older than the group 51. They were both agm. I never had any issues starting my vehicle or running my accessories. That setup never failed me and it was in place that way for 3 and a half years. These batteries were directly linked the entire time, with no isolator. (also yes, I really did get 7+ years out of that group 34 agm, and it actually still starts the vehicle it's sitting in)

    I do not believe the batteries HAVE to be the same size or age, but I WOULD keep the chemistry the same.
     
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  14. Aug 17, 2020 at 10:08 AM
    #2794
    Scott B.

    Scott B. Well-Known Member

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    I think the discussion was referring to battery chemistry, not size.
     
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  15. Aug 17, 2020 at 10:11 AM
    #2795
    John90XJ

    John90XJ Well-Known Member

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    You absolutely don't need matched batteries if you're using a DC/DC charger that separates the starting battery from the house battery.

    And, as it relates to chemistry, the charger should allow you to determine the house battery type and charge it appropriately. The CTEK D250 I use has an AGM wire that gets grounded to increase the voltage to an AGM or is left ungrounded to charge as a flooded lead acid. Size and chemistry do not matter with a charger designed for the task.
     
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  16. Aug 17, 2020 at 11:39 AM
    #2796
    thebaker

    thebaker Well-Known Member

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    Finally got the dual batteries installed. Big thanks to everyone that helped when i had questions, especially @Toynado and @rob1208.

    I just need to finish up extending the positive wire on the starter battery so i can run the mil spec terminal.

    20200817_033332.jpg
    20200817_033345.jpg
     
  17. Aug 17, 2020 at 12:43 PM
    #2797
    JEEPNIK

    JEEPNIK Well-Known Member

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    A bit overly complex and expensive but if you like it then ok. But you might want to look up how to run two batteries without all the extra electronics in case they go belly up in the middle of nowhere.
     
  18. Aug 17, 2020 at 7:55 PM
    #2798
    jimlangfordphotography

    jimlangfordphotography Well-Known Member

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    Clean install! Love the use of cable wrap and heat shrink. Nice and clean, great job!
     
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  19. Aug 18, 2020 at 11:45 AM
    #2799
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Any recommendations on isolator setups - just the usual ones on Amazon are all I'm looking at atm.
     
  20. Aug 19, 2020 at 8:49 PM
    #2800
    4wdExplorer

    4wdExplorer Well-Known Member

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    So I installed a ground 31 battery with Redarc Charger behind the rear seat of my DCSB.

    I installed an optional LED panel light to see if its blinking error codes and shows me when charging while vehicle is off.

    I noticed when I turn off my truck and remove key. The led light very faintly flickers. Hardly can see it, but you can see the flickering when looking close at it.

    The Redarc instructions say to run a 3v LED light but I installed a 12v. So I think this is the problem.

    I cannot find a 3v LED light. What are people running for the optional LED light display??
     

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