Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

Thank you!
Lately, and could be because of winter and where I park, etc.. the fridge is draining more of the bed battery. I was looking for another way of charging the bed battery.

Also tomorrow im going to be ordering a GFC. I know that doesn't change anything for solar or charging stuffs, but i might want to make my bed buildout a little cleaner/nicer?

 

I have a battery tender with 2 charging ports and when the truck is home, its charging. I don't have the fridge yet but in due time.
Zim

Most of this has changed including battery and bracket.
Z

 

Hey. So I looked over the manual for CTek 250SE (the one I have) and regarding water proofing, It is IP65 (splash and dust proof).
As for wiring, they require 10 gauge Positive wire for runs up to 15 feet, and 8 gauge up to 30 feet. Negative only 12 Gauge.
CTech has a mppt solar charge controller built in, and you plug the panel(s) straight in (with a fuse!) without need for a relay or additional controller.
Not 100% sure about RedArc, but I could have sworn that I've seen that they required a relay to separate solar and battery power going into the charger. That's one of the reasons I chose Ctek for ease of installation.
Also, when the auxiliary battery is full Ctek will use solar power to charge up your name starting battery, it is a big deal for those of us sporting AGM batteries up front.

However, unlike ACR chargers, DC DC charger will not join both batteries to give you extra boost in case your starting battery would decide to crap out. It will keep them apart, as separate systems, preventing your fridge (and whatever accessories you have connected to aux battery) from discharging your starting battery.

As for mounting, I think what you've mentioned last week seems like a good idea. On top (or side) of your current battery box, maybe with that plastic shield (for a thermostat or whatever) just to shield it from direct weather, unless there's enough space between battery and the cover? . And connect it all using Waterproof "Anderson" type Connectors.

 

The Redarc BCDC is set up to hook up a solar panel directly, no extra stuff needed. It can charge from both solar and the alternator simultaneously.

 

I just pulled up bcdc manual and yeah, it doesn't show any extra relays. I can't remember where did I see it, but I specifically remembered seeing that while doing research before buying my setup

 

You do need to add some sort of thingyjawn to self jumpstart, maybe that's what you saw?

 

No, it wasn't that.

Here, it was this. Or something like this:

https://www.redarcelectronics.co.nz/wiring-diagrams/bcdc1240-standard-installations

Excuse my crappy cropping skills....

Sorry ya'll for

 

That's the wiring diagram for using solar with a single input BCDC, the solar ready/dual input Redarc units (like the ones Offgrid Engineering sell) don't require that relay. This diagram shows the jumpstart solenoid, but it's not required for solar.

 

Yeah I always have one of those too. You know, for Grandma and her 1999 Buick with the O'Rilley's 2 year battery she bought in 2001...lmao. They are handy tho.
Zim

 

Yup, glad it's all cleared up! Too late for me, viable option for others.
Now, is bcdc water proof in any capacity?? Asking for a friend @fatfurious2

 

https://www.redarc.com.au/forum/discussion/1146/is-the-bcdc1225d-weatherproof
Yup apparently.

 

My install from last week, I hope they are telling the truth about water/dust proofness lol. Please excuse the kludgy fuse block for my winch, would love to come up with something more elegant but that's what came in the box from Superwinch.

 

So I hit a speed bump in my dual battery plans. I was planning on doing the off grid engineering dual battery kit, with the ML-ACR, in my 2015 TRD OR. Realizing now I'm not actually going to be able to fit the two AGM 27F northstars I was planning on as the space above the passenger fender is nowhere near large enough (duh). I also plan on using the HKB electric voltage booster to get my batteries to charge to spec. My question is would it be kosher to run the 27F northstar in my starter battery location (there is a 27F there now) and a Group 35 AGM northstar in the aux battery location on the passenger fender while still using the ML-ACR & voltage booster? I know you're really supposed to have identical batteries for this set-up so I'm just trying to figure out if what I'm proposing is safe/kosher.

Thanks!

 

talk to OGE about it. They are very responsive for a single man operation.

 

Speaking to Matt about this now. Verdict from him is Yes the two different sizes can be run together with the ML-ACR. Now I just need to figure out if the cycle charge voltage is the same for both.

 

Granted ive been running both identical batteries but I’ve had such great luck and experience with the ML-ACR. It’s been a great system for a bunch of years now. Figured it would be “smart” enough to to use two diff batteries.

 

My understanding is it's not really a "smart charger" when it comes to using 2 different batteries. That's what the Redarc smart charger is for. But that's if you're using 2 truly UN-identical batteries. Using two different size AGM's?...No idea. Hence my questions lol

 

ML-ACR is just a really big switch, thats it. When its "off" the two batteries are separate. Truly two batteries. When its "on" the two are tied together, which makes makes them like one big battery. Same voltage, more capacity.

Group (size) doesnt matter that much when it comes to mismatch. Battery type (chemistry) and age are more important. Mismatching types is really where you would want a DC-DC charger

 

The way that the ARC charges, is by linking the batteries together and charging them as one single battery. So if it's 2 Group 35 Northstars (60Amp/hr each) then the alternator will charge its just like a single 120Amp/hr battery. As our kit works, the batteries are always connected through the negatives, by linking the positives together it combines them in parallel, making a single large battery. So the size of battery isn't as important, especially having a group 27F(92amp/hrs) as your starting battery/winching battery, and having a slightly smaller 35 as the AUX battery (152amp/hr Combined). The batteries will charge together thus resulting in a longer overall charge time while driving. What is extremely important is that the batteries are the same chemistry as you discussed with Matt. Different chemistries require different charging style and voltage levels. Batteries of different chemistries linked together and charged together can cause damage to one or both batteries in both short and long term.
I am happy to answer any questions you have about and of the OGE products!

 

Goals. @docloco has a couple panels left!