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Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by MJonaGS32, Sep 20, 2013.

  1. Sep 6, 2021 at 8:16 AM
    #3101
    fatfurious2

    fatfurious2 IG: great_white_taco

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    I haven't checked that. Im guessing overnight..
     
  2. Sep 6, 2021 at 3:29 PM
    #3102
    Tacman19

    Tacman19 Well-Known Member

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    Group 24 is the physical battery size. Not the capability/AMPS/CCA/AH etc. So it varies from store to store and price. AGM I guess you talking about. My 100AH battery will last all night with the fridge so long as the kids, mom, the dog and local bear is not opening the lid every 10 minutes, but....the phucking sun better be poking through the trees at 0700 to charge it.
     
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  3. Sep 6, 2021 at 3:39 PM
    #3103
    fatfurious2

    fatfurious2 IG: great_white_taco

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    I think its a 62ah from my research
     
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  4. Sep 6, 2021 at 7:57 PM
    #3104
    Tacman19

    Tacman19 Well-Known Member

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    Cool. That's probably not enough. I'm actually adding another 100ah for mine. (Autozone professional AGM) Just to be safe. Really depends where you want to put it. I do NOT like the under hood stuff. Lots of heat, cold under there and batteries don't like either. I have a cap so at least it's away from the MOTOR and RADIATOR . LOL. (a little drama right there) Ahahahahahahaha.
    Zim
     
  5. Sep 7, 2021 at 1:25 PM
    #3105
    Stranger45

    Stranger45 Active Member

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    Well, can't use the kit I listed. I talked to REDARC, and they said they would not recommend the smart battery isolator for in bed installs even with 00ga cable.

    Are there any 200ah battery's you guys recommend?
     
  6. Sep 7, 2021 at 2:44 PM
    #3106
    Bastek

    Bastek Member

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    If you would decide not to go with the jump-start system, and stick to a single group 31 battery, the redarc 1225 would definitely fit the bill. You could always pack jump cables with you, in case you would need them (or get one of those jump start packs).
    If you're thinking of running 200 ah batteries, then according to their website 1225 would be basically maxed out, and 1240 could be a better option.

    Edit. Installation brochure specify the length and size of the cable you would need to use.


    As a side note, I have 20 amp Ctek(with a single solar panel), and according to the brochure it's basically maxed out at 100ah group 31 battery
     

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    Last edited: Sep 7, 2021
  7. Sep 8, 2021 at 11:48 AM
    #3107
    Scott B.

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    I run a CTEK D250SA to charge my second Odyssey battery in the bed. I don't know about the other brands, but I do know about the CTEK - and it works great.

    I gave up on the idea of self jump starting - that makes the wiring much simpler. I carry a small jump pack for emergencies. And, if SHTF, I run the same physical battery front and rear, so I can swap batteries if necessary to drive home. (For the record, over the years, 2 batteries have failed on my while on the dirt...)

    The +12 supply to the CTEK from the main battery/alternator is a 10 ga wire (fused). Easy to run and secure. I use the frame as a ground.

    The CTEK is next to the battery in the bed, so the charge wire is short, minimizing voltage losses.

    This is not everyone's solution, but has worked well for me for the past couple of years.
     
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  8. Sep 8, 2021 at 5:35 PM
    #3108
    Tactical_Panda

    Tactical_Panda Tactical Panda

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    Question:

    I have an off-road trailer with a 12V Deep-Cycle battery. I keep it charged via Solar when I'm in camp and I can also charge it from Shore Power if necessary.

    I would like to add an additional charging source from the 12V wire on the 7-Pin Trailer cable. I want to do this because running some kind of an 8-Guage wire from the truck to the trailer is not really practical.

    Can anyone recommend a converter box that will allow me to connect the 12V trailer cable wire to the trailer battery?

    TIA
     
  9. Sep 9, 2021 at 2:45 AM
    #3109
    Stranger45

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  10. Sep 9, 2021 at 6:19 AM
    #3110
    Scott B.

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    I am not 100% sure what you are asking. Are you wanting to charge the battery while driving?

    The +12 on the 7-pin connectors on our trucks is only powered when the engine is on/running. (I imagine that could be changed...)
     
  11. Sep 9, 2021 at 6:23 AM
    #3111
    Tacman19

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  12. Sep 9, 2021 at 6:27 AM
    #3112
    Tacman19

    Tacman19 Well-Known Member

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    You could use a Anderson plug but you'll still have to have some sort of isolator to keep the trailer battery from discharging back into the truck battery.
     
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  13. Sep 9, 2021 at 6:34 AM
    #3113
    Tactical_Panda

    Tactical_Panda Tactical Panda

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    Yes.

    Yes, I understand that. Besides, obviously I would not want to try to charge the Trailer Battery from the Truck Battery.
     
  14. Sep 9, 2021 at 8:11 AM
    #3114
    Tactical_Panda

    Tactical_Panda Tactical Panda

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    Thanks. Tell me more about isolators (sorry, I'm kinda new at this). Would it be like a heavy switch I would have to manually turn on and turn off, or are there "automatic" isolators that will disconnect from the truck battery for me?
     
  15. Sep 9, 2021 at 3:05 PM
    #3115
    Tacman19

    Tacman19 Well-Known Member

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    You are exactly correct. It's just a heavy switch. If you ever had a older ford, and saw the starter solenoid on fender, that's it. Now you can spend $1500-$2000 for the fancy stuff, but a simple solenoid will do the trick. It just prevents the aux battery from discharging the important truck battery. Charging voltage will only go one way. I just took mine apart but I'll post a pic later.
    Zim
     
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  16. Sep 9, 2021 at 4:47 PM
    #3116
    Stranger45

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    I worked at a Walmart distribution center for five years, I doubt your perception is as bad as mine. LOL

    I am wanting to mount the battery behind the back seat in my Tacoma, and this one would fit. Also I am short of time and know noyhing about these things.

    I have the REDARC BCDC1225D on the way but from what I am reading if I use a Lithium battery I would need the BCDC1240D insted, and a "Load Disconnect Isolator".
     
  17. Sep 9, 2021 at 4:52 PM
    #3117
    sawbladeduller

    sawbladeduller semi-realist

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    Blue-Seas has several relay switches. I installed the ML-ACR between two AGM batteries in the engine compartment 5 years ago. going strong no issue. A switch in the cab permits Auto connect, No connect, Both connect. Effectively you can switch as needed from driver seat, as well as manual switch on device under hood. good product.
     
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  18. Sep 9, 2021 at 5:03 PM
    #3118
    Tactical_Panda

    Tactical_Panda Tactical Panda

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    Thanks.
     
  19. Sep 9, 2021 at 5:38 PM
    #3119
    sawbladeduller

    sawbladeduller semi-realist

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    all i can offer is encouragement. steep learning curve...plenty of frustrations..but you can put this together. being short on time might be a crimp in the progress. when it gets down to it, some of this stuff you’ll need dealer support, so hopefully your buying from a seller that gives support. Redarc is highly regarded, ive viewed videos from australia with crazy Redarc systems. check Ronny Dahl on u-tube. Behind the seat sounds good. should be a couple ports in the floor for wire, otherwise going thru the firewall kind of limited, but doable
     
  20. Sep 9, 2021 at 5:44 PM
    #3120
    Tacman19

    Tacman19 Well-Known Member

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    Follow this guy's advice ^^^^^^^^ If you have not bought the lithium, go with the AGM and keep the unit you have coming.
    Zim
     

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