Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

4 awg for everything connected to the LiFePO4 battery. 10 awg (seems small but thats per Renogy and their specs) for the solar panel (200w)

 

Here's a few pictures of my dual battery set up...It's a bit of a home brew style set up with an analog connector that bridges both battery's together when the ignition is in the "on" position. All accessories (Fridge, interior/exterior lighting, misc. power, GMRS radio..etc.) are all for the most part running on the axillary battery. My onboard air is rigged up to the starter battery to be closer to the alternator but is only able to be activated when the truck is on and running. All of my accessories are controlled by an AuxBeam controller mounted on the top of the fuse box on the drivers side and the MPPT controller (mainly for a quick disconnect solar panel I use) is mounted on top of that. The quick connects on the grill are for a trickle charger (bottom connections) and a remote solar panel (top connection) so I can have the truck in the shade and move the solar panel with the sun.

There are for sure much better systems out there like Redarc that provide an out of the box solution. I very much like to tinker and wanted to build a solution myself that is easily replaceable...etc. should parts fail (I was inspired by one of Overland Bound's YouTube video).

As is any build of mine...it's constantly evolving as this is probably build three for electrical so far!

 

What trickle charger are you using?

My truck has dual batteries + isolator + solar.

Truck also has a fridge that runs 24/7.

Usually, the solar is more than enough to keep the battery topped off.

However, living in Western PA, sometimes we can go a week without seeing the sun.

And my drive back and forth to work is only 10 minutes each way, so the isolator doesn’t always have the opportunity to fully charge the house battery.

I’ve been coming home from work and dragging out my battery charger to top the battery off when it needs it.

I’d like to add an onboard charger.

I’ve been eyeballing the NoCo Gen5x1’s and it seems to be the perfect fit for what I need.

A 5 amp charger should be more than effective at topping the battery off when needed.

Thoughts?

 

@steveo27, I'm using a dual bank noco genius gen5. I picked up the x2 to charge the house (lithium) and starting battery since it has the ability to charge both battery types at the same time.

 

Where did you run the ground to inside the cab and for the solar panel?

 

The power for the solar is run to the DC/DC controller. The ground for the solar was run down to the frame and tucked up and away from anything I may or may not catch. Its 10 awg wire and was relatively easy to run it through an existing grommet in the rear wall of the cab. snaking it down in between the bed and the cab wasn't all that bad either. I had enough space to reach up from underneath as opposed to the side or top.

Current setup:



I have since added the battery monitor hub from renogy so I can not only monitor the charge controller but also the battery itself. I have also replaced the 2 rubber grommets on the ground wires coming through the plastic.

 

What is the advantage of using a smart charger (Redarc BCDC) over a DC-DC charger with built in MPPT? I saw somebody mention they could put it under the hood. Anything else?

I'm going to have a pair of 100Ah batteries (parallel) in the back seat, powering a frige (also in the backseat) and then a long run to a switch & fuse panel at the back of the truck bed (camper) for interior lighting, 12v water pump, and some USB outlets. I was originally just going to get a DC-DC charger and put it right by the batteries in the back seat, but then I found this thread and the smart chargers seem pretty popular.

 

Those of you who are NOT using LiFePO4, what kind of batteries are you running - flooded or AGM?

Brand? Group size? AH capacity? Thoughts?

I know LiFePO4 is the best bang for the buck nowadays but I’m still interested in seeing what else people are using.

 

2 Northstar 24F AGMs. The spec sheet says they are rated at 76Ah at the 20 Hr Rate. CCA is 840 amps at 0°F. Almost 9 years on this setup. I am pleasantly surprised by their longevity.

https://batteryguys.com/products/no...aT9pXjdzwvGtJWWeMCRAB61f2RQiji0fT_koLeVPnmwkr

 

I’ve got two group 34 Optima yellow tops – those are AGM‘s – and the main battery has been going strong since I put it in, but the house battery has died now twice. I didn’t have any kind of supplemental charging aside from the alternator, and I think that’s a bad idea unless you’re really disciplined about putting the battery on a tender. I’ve got solar on there now, so I’m hoping that keeps things topped up!

 

And by “died” I mean fails and needed to be replaced!

 

Primary - Everstart Maxx 24F 750CCA, regular flooded, unk AH, installed 11/19.

Secondary - Weize 48/H6 760 CCA, AGM, 70AH, installed 4/24. Replaced a Deka Intimidator 34F that lasted 7.5 years. I still have this battery, but its current CCA of 105 barely starts the Taco. The Weize is made in China and I got it mostly to see how good it will be. Out of the box, and after a charge cycle, it tested a disappointing 675 CCA, of claimed 760, but it has not gone down from that. So far, not too bad for the price, $123 on Amazon.

 

I'm running 2 Odyssey PC1500R batteries. This is Odyssey's size (and reverse post layout) of the Tacoma replacement battery. My second battery is completely isolated from the main, and is on a CTEK DC/DC charger.

The reason for the same physical size battery is, if the starting battery every fails, I can replace it with the 2nd battery, and go on my way. My refrigerator won't be cold, but I won't be stuck in the woods, either.

And yes, over the years, I have had 2 batteries physically fail while off-road. One, a wet cell, and one was an Optima red top. Rare, but it does happen.

 

Ran an x2power 27f agm as the house battery for a year before going with lithium. For running a fridge and camp lights it was plenty. Charged off alternator with an isolater to disconnect from starter battery.

 

Initial thoughts? I’ve been eyeballing those.

 

I posted a review on the Amazon page with a few more details. So far, not bad for the price. The lower-than-advertised CCA rating of 675 is holding steady through five months. I think I saw a review where the tested CCA was over advertised. To their credit, the vendor saw my review and offered a refund, but I declined cause I knew they would then ask me to change my review. I am satisfied with 675 if it stays steady over the three-year warranty period.

 

If it’s 200W then current output should be well below 10A making 10 awg more than enough and probably more about cable/connector strength than current.

 

Is the battery mounted under the hood?

Their operating temp range seems to be too low to safely run under the hood of our trucks from what I’m understanding.

 

Didn't notice that. What is temp range? Yes, mine is in engine compartment on pass side.

 

Ideally that’s exactly what I want to do.

My lead acid house battery needs replaced again because the batteries are junk and I’d like to upgrade without redoing the whole system.

I’d simply like to drop it in the same exact location as the existing battery under the hood.



I know a lot of people run AGMs under the hood, but I also keep reading that AGMs don’t like the heat.

A 100ah Weize battery is only like 20$ more than a replacement FLA deep cycle from the parts store.