Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

Slimwood Shady · Nov 12, 2013

I used the blueseas it is only like $130ish and works great. Isolates when the truck is off, and connects when the truck is on. Flip a switch and either connect or isolate....very nice! I also used a Columbia Overland Battery box designed for Odyssy Batteries. I used DieHard Platnium GP 35 Batteries instead.

http://www.bluesea.com/products/7622..._-_12V_DC_500A

http://www.columbiaoverland.com/product/toyota-tacoma-2nd-generation-2005-current-dual-battery-tray

http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02850035000P

skygear · Nov 13, 2013

Where did you find that Blue Sea 7622 for $130? I cant find it anywhere.

ian408 · Nov 13, 2013

skygear said: ↑

Where did you find that Blue Sea 7622 for $130? I cant find it anywhere.
Click to expand...

Have you tried Amazon or West Marine?

I looked the other day and it was cheaper on Amazon than it is right now.

manethon · Nov 13, 2013

abarber11 said: ↑

As requested, here is the specifics on my new setup.

Main Materials
1.Optima type 31A Yellow Top Battery
2. Perfect Switch Power Gate Single Rectifier. - Its a really good unit. I got lucky and found a new, unused old stock one on ebay for $30.
3. 30' or so of 1/0 gauge cable. Its more than you need, but I figured I could use the extra on for my inverter.I got 20' of red Knukonceptz Fleks and 10' of black 1/0 gauge KCA cable.
3. 2 200A in line water proof fuses. Knukonceptz makes waterproof housings too
4. Battery tray with nylon strap. Mines for a size 27M and fits ok.
5. Ring terminals, random screws, wire loom, etc

The first thing I did was to re-run the factory grounds with 1/0 gauge wire. I have the tow package and I think the 130A alternator can handle my needs, but I wanted to make sure I was getting all I could out of the electrical system. I used this link for reference. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO3SgiQF26E

I made a new negative terminal to body wire (the short one), and ran a wire from the negative terminal to frame. There is a hole in the frame below the battery that will accept a 12mm bolt (I did not use the sway bar bracket as they did in the above vid because I didnt want to efff with it). Its the forward of the two holes on the top of the frame. Im not sure if its threaded, but a 12mm bolt fit tightly. I accessed the spot by removing the forward rubber when you look under the driver side front wheel well. I also ran a 1/0 gauge wire from this bolt to the case of the alternator as well to complete the circuit. (Theres 2.5 of the big 3, the 0.5 being the little wimpy neg term to body)

On the positive side, I removed the stock alternator to fuse box wire. Its a 4 gauge wire that runs from the top of the alternator output post (covered by the black or red plastic cover), to the 10mm bolt at the top of the fuse box. Unscrew that nut, tear open the loom and remove the wire completely. You can probably tape it off, but I didnt feel comfortable with it being able to cause a dead short on pretty much anything metal under the hood. I ran a 1/0 gauge wire from the output terminal of the alternator to the anode side of the perfect switch isolator and a 1/0 gauge wire from the cathode to the positive term of the battery (#3 of the big 3)

I used this schematic to wire it all up and put 200A fuses close to each battery. I chose 200A because the alt puts out 130A, but the wire can handle up and over 300A.

Heres mine and the 200A fuse on a little mount that I built.

I ran the 1/0 gauge positive wire from the anode side of the isolator through the front firewall down behind the kick panel and along the door jamb. You have to pop all that plastic off. Theres a thumb screw behind the plastic pedal for the kick panel, and you have to take out the seatbelt to remove the plastic column.

To fit the type 31 Optima in behind the rear passenger's seat, I first removed the passenger seat in the rear. 6 bolts and the seat comes out. Then I pulled out the black plastic cubby and chopped it up. I just basically used a dremmel to cut out the back and bottom of the cubby below the middle ridge where the two bolts connect it to the rear of the truck. You can see the white of the cab around the battery in this picture. That's what I cut out. If I didnt have the JBL sub, I might have placed the battery on the other side for weight distribution.

I mounted a size 27M battery tray from Amazon on the bottom of the cab where I wanted the battery. I tried to make sure the battery was pushed as close to the center as I could. I used size 12 1" sheet metal screws with 1 inch washers and drilled through the floor. Be very careful, your gas tank and all sorts of wiring is up under there as you get closer to the center of the cab. You can reach up under there before you drill to make sure you dont hit anything.

I chose to mount everything in one spot behind the rear passenger's seat so I fit the 200A fuse on the outside of the plastic cubby and drilled through the side. For the negative battery terminal to frame ground, I ran 1/0 gauge wire back along positive wire path behind the rear kick panel and underneath the carpet behind the drivers seat is a rubber plug. I drilled through that plug, ran the wire through it, and grounded that wire to a bolt on the upper outside of the frame. it should be out of the way enough, but you may be able to find a better ground if you are a serious offroader and think it might get hung up.

I added a blue sea fuse box with 4/0 gauge wire and a 100A fuse so that I can run my accessories. There is another plug in the rear middle of the cab under the bigger seat that I will run the wires for my accessories.

Put the rear passenger seat back on and you're done.
Click to expand...

great video explaining big 3
Im actually working on getting a group buy set up for a big 3+ winch kit and a big 3+ battery relocation kit with only the best wire . Should make life allot easier.

The funny things, there is nothing complicated here:
GET a second battery,
do big 3
get a quality battery isolator
DONE!

you dont need all these fancy monitors and such.
IF your worried about your voltage get 2 cheap dash mounted meters.
Besides, if your truck is off- the isolator wont allow your starting battery to drain down from use if wired to your secondary battery.

skygear · Nov 13, 2013

ian408 said: ↑

Have you tried Amazon or West Marine?

I looked the other day and it was cheaper on Amazon than it is right now.
Click to expand...

Yes, no go on West Marine. Not listed on their site so special order only - Meaning boned at retail pricing.

Amazon has them @167.18

skygear · Nov 13, 2013

manethon, you miss the point of what some of the 'monitors' actually do. not just voltage and such, but allows you to self jump if the need arises.

The Blue Sea setup is what I like the best so far. Over my current setup that is.

skygear · Nov 13, 2013

This is a useful link for everyone. and a pic for reference -
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge

manethon · Nov 14, 2013

skygear said: ↑

manethon, you miss the point of what some of the 'monitors' actually do. not just voltage and such, but allows you to self jump if the need arises.

The Blue Sea setup is what I like the best so far. Over my current setup that is.
Click to expand...

Oh I perfectly understood,
If some one would like to spend the extra coin for that ability that's great to have.

skygear · Nov 21, 2013

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVYEreW4cH8

skygear · Nov 21, 2013

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0v7GHrWUQc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJDlFBW3nRI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsQyxe4rtgA

skygear · Nov 21, 2013

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0Yc3D_79RM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PR498WWVpMo

Manwithoutaplan · Nov 21, 2013

skygear said: ↑

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0v7GHrWUQc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJDlFBW3nRI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsQyxe4rtgA
Click to expand...

both those video where spot on thanks for find that.

skygear · Nov 23, 2013

These are oldies, but goodies. I went with a Solenoid vs a Smart Solenoid initially. So now I am making the appropriate adjustments to my system.

skygear · Nov 23, 2013

On another note, I love the setup of this shop in the videos. Seems to be a REAL off road shop vs the couple local to me./ They are more focused on REAL off roading. Local seem to be more focused on the AV (stereos, speakers, screens, TV) aspect.

skygear · Dec 7, 2013

Most people end up with a Dual Battery system of some sorts. The National Luna system is NICE but has a HUGE paddle dongle to monitor it all. What if it was all contained in a switch? Similar to all the others we get and install. No more worrying about placement, just put it in a switch opening.

Basing this off the Blue Sea ACR - Automatic Charging Relay, and the SPDT Switch. Then integrating the National Luna type tech and dual voltage gauges into it. The oiezio alarm would be in there also.

Whatcha think?

Here is the basic Idea/ My Theory ->

Slimwood Shady · Dec 7, 2013

That is genius! I love this concept! Almost looks like it belongs there!

Blackdawg · Dec 7, 2013

Love teh switch..don't love the ACR. only 65 amps continuous rated..thats super weak for a second battery system..my alternator puts out 140 amps..

Winching would fuck that little thing up.

i bet you could wire the blue sea switch to the national luma solenoid though..

Slimwood Shady · Dec 7, 2013

Blackdawg said: ↑

Love teh switch..don't love the ACR. only 65 amps continuous rated..thats super weak for a second battery system..my alternator puts out 140 amps..

Winching would fuck that little thing up.

i bet you could wire the blue sea switch to the national luma solenoid though..
Click to expand...

ACR is 500 amps continuous....

http://www.bluesea.com/products/7620/ML-ACR_Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12V_DC_500A

Blackdawg · Dec 7, 2013

yea sorry was looking at the entirely wrong setup...don't mind me

Slimwood Shady · Dec 7, 2013

Blackdawg said: ↑

yea sorry was looking at the entirely wrong setup...don't mind me
Click to expand...

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