Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

Add a fuse in between.

And a lot of people use one of these so there isn't a bunch of wires hooked up to the batter post

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Bla...473292177&sr=8-8&keywords=blue+sea+fuse+block

 

If the wiring harness that it comes with has a fuse relay attached to it, do I still need that adapter? Thank you very much for your help

 

It is not dangerous to have like 4 wires hooked up to the battery post is it? As long as i have a fuse in betweeen?

 

I went with my secondary or house battery in the bed of the truck as most of what it would be running was there. So the direct access seemed the way to go. I used a ctek D250s as my system controller as it has the capability to control solar also and add in "shore power".

You can read more about it HERE.

You can read about my entire electrical system HERE

 

The link I posted does both. It's a fuse block (with individual fuses for whatever you hook up to it) and it serves as a bank where you can hook up a bunch of electronics to and then only one large wire is connected to your battery.

Not dangerous. Just looks like ass

 

Wow Okay, thats so convenient. Thank you very much for responding so quickly! I appreciate it very much.

 

Hey, on my Blue Sea setup, when I am driving the Red switch blinks (both bars). Is this normal?

 

No

 

I don't have my instructions with me now, could you tell me what you are saying please?

 

First we need to know how the LEDs are blinking. Also, do you have the switch on "auto"?

If the switch is on "auto" and the LEDs are blinking quickly, the ML-ACR is in an undervoltage or overvoltage lockout (either battery is below 9.6V or above 16.2V).
If the switch is on "auto" and the LEDs are blinking slowly, start or engine isolation is causing batteries to be isolated.
If the switch is in either the override "on" or "off" and the LEDs are double blinking (blink-blink-pause-repeat) you need to check that the manual override on the ML-ACR is off (latch on the actual unit in line with the body - same as the "on" position for a ball valve). Did you get the unit with the override switch?

If slow blink: Did you connect the brown wire? If so, where?
If double blink: Is the manual override on your unit in the "off" position? Is the switch in the "auto" position?
If fast blink: is one of your batteries dead? Is your alternator putting out more than 16.2V? Did you get the 24V version of the ACR and not the 12V version? You do have two batteries hooked up, correct?

If all that fails, you might have a faulty ML-ACR unit.

Edit: i see in a previous post you have two batteries. Also see that you say that the ACR unlatches quickly when you shut the truck off. How old are your batteries? Are you sure one or both are good batteries?

 

Thanks for your help. I was having a real bad day yesterday. I didn't have the ML-ACR on. Turned it on everything works.
As far as the batteries go, one is brand new, and the other is 6 months old.
Thanks for your help.

 

Great! Glad you got it figured oit

I keep the manual and FAQ for the unit in the glove box with me for reference

 

Finished mine last week

-two brand new Odyssey pc1200's
-1/0 cable between the batteries and for the ground from the main battery to the engine block, 4 awg for the auxiliary fuse block and breaker and to upgrade the wiring to the factory fuse block.
-200 amp fuses on each battery
-Blue Sea 7622 ml ACR
-Blue Sea fuse panel w/negative buss
-100 amp Blue Sea circuit breaker


Made myself a battery tray, had to relocate the cruise control about an inch and modify the bracket a bit. I use all the cab and bed space and keep my spare in the factory location so it was a priority to keep everything under the hood
Everything is very tight for space, with the compressor for the rear locker, I had to do quite a bit of planning to squeeze everything in. Had to find a creative way to mount the fuse panel and circuit breaker to protect it so fabbed a bracket out of 14 gauge and attached it to the 3/8 aluminum bar I used to secure the battery. The old tray will be reworked to match the mounting of the second tray so the bar across the top is perpendicular to how I have it run in this pic, the bar currently puts stress in the wrong place and the 1/8" steel deflects to the point it fatigues the plastic on top of the battery. I never liked this, but I had it secured this way for the Odyssey I had in there for the 9 years prior without issue.

Some may argue the ML ACR may not be mounted in a great place secured to the top of the OEM fuse cover but I say bullshit to that, it's not going anywhere and the screws are nowhere near anything vital.Switch mounted in a simple plastic panel that I found on Amazon that I cut into the dash and put with the locker and compressor switch. The middle switch cover is mislabeled, ARB or East Coast Gear Supply left the cover for the rear locker out of my order when I received my rear differential.

 

your work is out of this world, great job

 

A lot of us run something similar. Peak DBI dual monitor

http://peakdbi.co.za/shop/monitor/12v-double-monitor/

 

I did and it came within the month no problems.

 

Or just do this for less than 10 bucks.

 

I ran positive to battery terminal and ground to ground post.

 

Thats exactly how i did it

 

There is a eBay seller selling these. Still comes from SA though.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-LED-dou...cator-car-4WD-camper-/322064646207?rmvSB=true

Yes