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Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by MJonaGS32, Sep 20, 2013.

  1. Apr 9, 2017 at 8:06 AM
    #1561
    scott96929

    scott96929 IRoniK

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    All Pro Front Plate Bumper, MaxTrac 4" Spindles, Light Racing Upper Control Arms, BOSS Leaf Springs, Toytec Adjustable Coilovers, Fox 2.0 Rear shocks, 17" Raceline Assault Wheels, Toyo RT 285 70R17, AFE Stg II Cold Air Intake, Prinsu Cabrack, Prinsu Bedrack, 10K Kensun HID Headlights, Avec 20" Optic LED Light Bar, Avec LED Fog Lights, Heretic 30" Combo LED Light Bar, Viper Max 12000 Winch, Quick Fist, Tepui Kukeman Ruggerized RTT, Smittybilt Awning, Relentless Fab Tailgate Reinforcement, Anti-Dark Hood Lighting Kit, Fog Lights Anytime Mod, Rear Differential Breather Mod, P&L Tailgate Lock, KMFAB Rock Sliders, KMFAB Rock Light Kit, KMFAB Bed Light Kit, KMFAB RTT Light Kit, KMFAB 12 VDC Outlet Kit,Optima Dual Battery, SSCS Kit, Switch Pro 8100 Kit, Cali Raised Ditch Light Kit
    Yager78, Chuy and 4x4Taco09 like this.
  2. Apr 9, 2017 at 9:07 AM
    #1562
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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    I've only ever seen it on ebay. And it does come and go. I'm sure it will be back. You can also contact the seller kevin1002012 for an update.
     
  3. Apr 9, 2017 at 10:33 AM
    #1563
    scott96929

    scott96929 IRoniK

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    2007 Tocoma PreRunner (Ironik)
    All Pro Front Plate Bumper, MaxTrac 4" Spindles, Light Racing Upper Control Arms, BOSS Leaf Springs, Toytec Adjustable Coilovers, Fox 2.0 Rear shocks, 17" Raceline Assault Wheels, Toyo RT 285 70R17, AFE Stg II Cold Air Intake, Prinsu Cabrack, Prinsu Bedrack, 10K Kensun HID Headlights, Avec 20" Optic LED Light Bar, Avec LED Fog Lights, Heretic 30" Combo LED Light Bar, Viper Max 12000 Winch, Quick Fist, Tepui Kukeman Ruggerized RTT, Smittybilt Awning, Relentless Fab Tailgate Reinforcement, Anti-Dark Hood Lighting Kit, Fog Lights Anytime Mod, Rear Differential Breather Mod, P&L Tailgate Lock, KMFAB Rock Sliders, KMFAB Rock Light Kit, KMFAB Bed Light Kit, KMFAB RTT Light Kit, KMFAB 12 VDC Outlet Kit,Optima Dual Battery, SSCS Kit, Switch Pro 8100 Kit, Cali Raised Ditch Light Kit
  4. Apr 9, 2017 at 10:36 AM
    #1564
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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  5. Apr 9, 2017 at 10:38 AM
    #1565
    scott96929

    scott96929 IRoniK

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    All Pro Front Plate Bumper, MaxTrac 4" Spindles, Light Racing Upper Control Arms, BOSS Leaf Springs, Toytec Adjustable Coilovers, Fox 2.0 Rear shocks, 17" Raceline Assault Wheels, Toyo RT 285 70R17, AFE Stg II Cold Air Intake, Prinsu Cabrack, Prinsu Bedrack, 10K Kensun HID Headlights, Avec 20" Optic LED Light Bar, Avec LED Fog Lights, Heretic 30" Combo LED Light Bar, Viper Max 12000 Winch, Quick Fist, Tepui Kukeman Ruggerized RTT, Smittybilt Awning, Relentless Fab Tailgate Reinforcement, Anti-Dark Hood Lighting Kit, Fog Lights Anytime Mod, Rear Differential Breather Mod, P&L Tailgate Lock, KMFAB Rock Sliders, KMFAB Rock Light Kit, KMFAB Bed Light Kit, KMFAB RTT Light Kit, KMFAB 12 VDC Outlet Kit,Optima Dual Battery, SSCS Kit, Switch Pro 8100 Kit, Cali Raised Ditch Light Kit
    yeah I realized that after I posted..... my bad
     
    Digiratus likes this.
  6. Apr 9, 2017 at 10:49 AM
    #1566
    abarber11

    abarber11 Well-Known Member

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    Digiratus likes this.
  7. Apr 9, 2017 at 10:55 AM
    #1567
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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    there ya go. That's his website I believe.
     
  8. Apr 9, 2017 at 11:00 AM
    #1568
    FunkytownTaco

    FunkytownTaco L.I.V.I.N.

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    Thanks. After a little more research I think I'm going to go with the two digital ones.

    I like this and I think I'll put them in the same location. What did you use to cut that piece? Dremel?
     
  9. Apr 9, 2017 at 11:26 AM
    #1569
    scott96929

    scott96929 IRoniK

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    All Pro Front Plate Bumper, MaxTrac 4" Spindles, Light Racing Upper Control Arms, BOSS Leaf Springs, Toytec Adjustable Coilovers, Fox 2.0 Rear shocks, 17" Raceline Assault Wheels, Toyo RT 285 70R17, AFE Stg II Cold Air Intake, Prinsu Cabrack, Prinsu Bedrack, 10K Kensun HID Headlights, Avec 20" Optic LED Light Bar, Avec LED Fog Lights, Heretic 30" Combo LED Light Bar, Viper Max 12000 Winch, Quick Fist, Tepui Kukeman Ruggerized RTT, Smittybilt Awning, Relentless Fab Tailgate Reinforcement, Anti-Dark Hood Lighting Kit, Fog Lights Anytime Mod, Rear Differential Breather Mod, P&L Tailgate Lock, KMFAB Rock Sliders, KMFAB Rock Light Kit, KMFAB Bed Light Kit, KMFAB RTT Light Kit, KMFAB 12 VDC Outlet Kit,Optima Dual Battery, SSCS Kit, Switch Pro 8100 Kit, Cali Raised Ditch Light Kit
    I just used a drill bit for the perimeter, hacksaw blade to cut straight lines and filed to size. The plastic is really soft.

    Total cost for this setup is 6 bucks and about two hours of your time...
     
    InTheRough and Digiratus like this.
  10. Apr 9, 2017 at 9:39 PM
    #1570
    InTheRough

    InTheRough Well-Known Member

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    This is how I did mine.
    20151017_110255_zpsqu26upsf_8918b0131a883f777483ef97fada71750e477e6f.jpg

    I did tint the back side of the plastic lense so that the LED display wasn't so bright.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2017
  11. Apr 10, 2017 at 5:10 AM
    #1571
    FunkytownTaco

    FunkytownTaco L.I.V.I.N.

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    Awesome. Thanks guys!
     
  12. Apr 11, 2017 at 8:53 AM
    #1572
    tacoma16

    tacoma16 Well-Known Member

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    battery mounted and switch panel and harness for the truck cap made

    Just have to mount the blue sea ml acr, and wire everything.
     
  13. Apr 12, 2017 at 4:39 PM
    #1573
    Zebinator

    Zebinator Well-Known Member

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    nice!!! where's the panel going?
     
    dziner likes this.
  14. Apr 12, 2017 at 6:18 PM
    #1574
    tacoma16

    tacoma16 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! It's going to be going in the tool box on the windoors on the cap.

    Cleaning up this mess and making it a true dual battery setup. Not just a stand alone battery charged off solar. The switch box will be going in here though. Lots of room with the battery in the bed.
     
  15. Apr 17, 2017 at 10:57 AM
    #1575
    Gabex35

    Gabex35 Well-Known Member

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  16. Apr 22, 2017 at 11:52 AM
    #1576
    tetten

    tetten Cynical Twat Waffle

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    Core support is starting to crack so looks like I'm doing a battery relocate sooner than anticipated, while I'm moving the battery I might as well add another. Looking for some advice to fix my electrical stupidity.

    This is the preliminary plan:

    electrical diagram.jpg

    Now a couple of questions...

    1. Concerning grounding....Is there any advantage to running a wire for the engine/frame/chassis separately? I ordered a shit load of 1/0 wire and I'm pretty sure I could run an individual wire for each major ground, or would it just be simpler and just as effective to ground everything to the frame and run a wire (or parallel wires) from the frame to the ground bus bar?

    2. Concerning the Start battery/alternator/OEM Fuse box....I'm not looking to start cutting up the stock wiring harness and replacing its wiring at this time, would it be just as effective to place a power post where at the OEM battery location and connect the OEM harness and battery wire to it? Or should I just suck it up and cut up the stock harness and run separate wires for the OEM fuse box and alternator to/from the battery?

    3. Concerning the Start battery/alternator/OEM fuse box....What kind of circuit protection are people running for this or are they running any at all? Somewhere in the thread its been stated that starting current can get as high as 700amps. How long does it stay at those elevated levels? For a fraction of a second or longer?

    Any insight advice is appreciated. Even the "Hey dumbass you're completely fucked up and going to burn your truck to the ground" type.
     
  17. Apr 22, 2017 at 12:28 PM
    #1577
    twhalm

    twhalm Well-Known Member

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    I am not sure how the ML relay works, but do you want to have protection for that? If it fails, will it short between the two batteries?
     
  18. Apr 22, 2017 at 8:30 PM
    #1578
    Thelgord

    Thelgord The Pantagonist

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    1. Yes, shorter wires. The main battery is grounded to frame already, and grounding a second (or even a third or fourth) battery to the frame will not harm anything. However, running the ground (negative terminal) from battery #2 through the negative cable of battery #1 (potentially) doubles the load the ground cable for battery #1 needs to handle from terminal to frame.

    2. Always try to maintain the factory wiring as factory as possible. If you need to have something that turns off with the key you can get a fuse tap that plugs into an existing fuse location to control a relay. The alternator "charge cable" really isn't all the heavy duty and (IMHO) adding a power post hear really won't serve much of a purpose, normally. However, since you are relocating the battery, the stock cable length may not be enough. So you could use a power post, or run a longer cable from the alternator. Either way would be just fine.

    3. The 700amp draw is from the starter motor (and associated electronics) needed to start the engine. Once you let up on the ignition (from start to run) the power draw is back to "normal". It is because starter motors pull so much power (much like a winch motor) that the CCA (cold cranking amp) rating of a starter battery is important. In layman's terms, it is a measure of how fast it can push electricity out of the battery.

    4. The "Protection device" you asked about in your diagram really isn't needed here. You can if helps you sleep at night, but your current diagram doesn't change the factory wiring, or current ratings for battery #1.

    Honestly, your diagram looks good.
     
    Kolunatic and tetten like this.
  19. Apr 22, 2017 at 10:54 PM
    #1579
    tetten

    tetten Cynical Twat Waffle

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    As I understand the ML-ACR connect/disconnects the 2 positive sides of the batteries, shorting out shouldn't be an issue in the event of a failure. If the ML-ACR fails I believe the auxiliary battery will drain down, hence the need for voltage monitoring if going dual battery. My ML-ACR will be located on top of the batteries and will have short lengths of wire with no room for protection (even if I wanted it).
     
  20. Apr 27, 2017 at 8:01 PM
    #1580
    Cannikin

    Cannikin Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Rob
    San Marcos, CA
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    Almost finished up my dual battery this afternoon! just need to run a couple wires through the firewall to hook up the ACR remote switch.

    I used the Armor Tech Offroad dual battery tray from here: http://www.armortechoffroad.com/2005-2015-Tacoma-Dual-Battery-Tray_p_2.html SUPER beefy and solid. The piece here sits right on top of the fender:

    [​IMG]

    Then a tray sits on top of that with tabs to help align the batteries:

    [​IMG]

    And then a top plate that holds everything down:

    [​IMG]

    Here's everything almost wired up before I got the ACR in place:

    [​IMG]

    I used a Blue Sea distribution block found here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC and two group 34 Optima batteries, the one on the left with both top and side posts—the cable to the alternator was too short to make it to the top post and I didn't feel like re-wiring it, so I got a battery with both and it fit just fine! Everything is wired with 4 gauge welding cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D7Q1RAK

    Finally here's the ACR in place:

    [​IMG]

    I might play with the cables a bit in the future to tidy things up, but I'm loving it so far!

    Finally, mounted the remote switch in the cab:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 2, 2017
    dziner, Stickerice85, jubei and 6 others like this.

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