Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

Can anyone answer this, can I get the main battery to be 27f and the second battery being the auxiliary be 35 for the dual battery setup? with blue sea ml-acr... or thats just stupid idea

 

If both batteries are AGM types, you'll probably be ok. That way both batteries would charge the same way.

 

Thanks for the input, just wondering if the the amp hours have to match. one is 92 and the other 60... i think im just going with 2 35's and call it day.

 

dont know if i posted mine on here but here are some pics form my setup, acr on the passenger side, house battery is in the bed with the 2nd fuse box as well as the solar controller box -- solars on roof

 

Thats nice, looking to do something like your setup with the compressor and solar. By the way hows the solar power?charge been?

 

unless you running a fridge on freezer mode and a hungry inverter, i would just stick with one panel

 

I had a single panel (and dual batt) with my old Edgestar fridge and it could barely keep up after 3 days of being stationary. I recently added a second panel and new Dometic fridge and I was able to maintain being stationary for 4.5 days. It stayed at 14v during the day and dipped down to 12v at night. Was awesome not to worry about it all and concentrate on camping/partying

 

^^ @elclem21 you can reposition your abs modular to get a second battery on the passonger side

 

For those of you using the Mictuning dual battery monitor (https://amzn.to/2tUW6OF), if i used add a fuse to tap into fuse box in cab to give the read-out for "main" -- could i potentially have this only on when ignition is on? i know it's low draw, but would rather not have it on FT.

as an aside do these have to be fused? it's super low current going through it and theoretically has some built-in overcurrent and over voltage "protection" whatever that means...

 

Just wiring it to an fuse that's ignition hot, and it will only read the main battery when the key is on. I wouldn't bother with fusing it.

 

but it would read the aux battery all the time?

 

Yes if it's wired straight to the aux battery.

 

for your fuse box any reason you're not grounding back to the aux battery?

 

i guess the question then becomes... how to ensure that it's only monitoring when the ignition is on?

 

Put a relay between the aux battery and monitor. Wire the coil to an ignition hot source.

Or put a switch in the line to turn it on/off when you want.

 

Just installed my dual battery setup and found a monitor that fit in one of the blanks I had. Like the OEM look.

 

link to this unit? do you have it switched or is it on full-time?

 

I'm also interested in this. Not too pumped about going through my firewall again, but it would be worth it for this.

 

Its on full time, and has in-line fuses. Also, the clear cover is made of no-glare plastic, and it's bright enough to see clearly in daylight. It's not cheap, but I think it's worth it. Link below.

https://www.solidkit.com.au/product...ta-prado-150-landcruiser-200-2016-hilux-copy/

 

as i approach my dual battery build...just wanted to get some feedback. Being that I dont have much background in electrical work, I think that i finally have pretty much everything that I need except the battery and the battery tray. I am planning on putting the aux battery above the intake on the passenger side 3rd gen w/ tow package

-I was considering saving to money by building my own battery bracket, but after reading through some of the posts here I wonder if that is not necessary and i should just get a plain oversize tray? Also, I was considering just buying something like THIS and then modifying it to mount in my 3rd gen because that might just end up costing the same as buying my own. It seems the downside to just putting in a plain battery tray alone is that my options are limited as far as being able to mount my fuse box on top of the aux. I have a ML-ACR that i plan on mounting on the starter. Has any one else thought of other options such as these for 3rd gen? I'm not really interested in spending $150 on an aux battery bracket alone as ive seen from some kits on here...
-when it comes to deciding on a battery, I am still at a loss with all of the info here. I know that I want something deep cycle that I can run electronics while the truck is off for long periods of time(electric blanket, LEDs, etc), and I also want to be able to jump start off of it. I would like to stay around the $200 rage.
-side note: does anyone know of a calculator that can give an idea as to how long a battery can run with electronics turned on?
-do i really need to get a matching starter or can i keep my OEM one? It was my understanding that the ML-ACR would be able compensate between the two without having to get a matching starter.

Thanks in advance.