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Dual VVT-i FJ Intake mod for Tacoma Single VVT-I engines.

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Key-Rei, Sep 15, 2017.

  1. Sep 15, 2017 at 4:38 AM
    #1
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I decided to make my own thread for this as it's going to be an involved and somewhat ongoing project and I'd like to document my success or failure; without further adue I present to you:

    20170914_122832.jpg
    20170914_122923.jpg

    First impressions are promising, even with the MAF installed less than optimally, midrange torque seems to have been improved and no check engine light yet.


    I'd like to garner some interest so as another member asked:


    I'm glad you asked!

    A couple of reasons, heres a quick bullet list.

    It's OEM quality

    It uses OEM dry air filters which are better and cheaper filtration and easy to find and replace and won't oil your MAF sensor.

    The FJ filter itself is much larger, nearly twice the flat area it's nearly square, vs the Tacoma's pennant shaped filter potentially meaning less frequently filter changes or cleanings

    The air flows through the larger filter more evenly vs using only a small centralised section of filter the pennant filter uses.

    It was designed for the higher output Dual VVT-i 1GR so the flow specs are known to be at least as good as the basic 1gr intake most likely better

    It fit's nicely off to the side using existing bolt holes instead of claiming the top half of the motor

    Because it sits off to the side it doesn't absorb as much radiant heat from the top of the block as the stock intake does

    The air flow path is larger and more direct vs the wonderful example of pointless over engineering and convolution that is the stock monstrosity. Seriously air in the stock box has to go through 5, 6? Near 90 elbows?

    I only have $40 and 2hrs invested in this vs dropping $400 for the TRD or other aftermarket intake box

    It flows better than any aftermarket intake for our trucks

    The TRD and other aftermarket filter assemblies are notorious for ripping/tearing/falling off the throttle body. The fj stock one is not.

    The FJ airbox has a self bleeding and sealing "valve" in it for water evacuation, the taco box has no such water valve

    The FJ filters have a synthetic water barrier glued to the paper media filter so the water will not reach the paper filter and will leave out the valve it was designed for.

    It seals into the fender well hole just as snuggly as stock meaning a nice cold air intake just like stock and it will still work appropriately with snorkels designed for our trucks stock intake.

    I have some more things I plan to do with this system that I couldn't or wouldn't do with an aftermarket.

    It's different and unique makes people ask what is that and why

    I like to tinker and this was is a fun project.

    Here's the only "issues"

    I had to fabricobble a plate to get the Single VVTi MAF to mount in the propper orientation and in the smaller dual VVTi maf spot.

    The intake silencers produce turbulance and decrease responsiveness in the intake.

    The intake silencers take up almost as much room as the stock airbox

    These issues will be rectified in iteration II!

    Here's my up and combing plans for this mod, the pictures shown were mainly for a proof of concept for myself.

    Coming soon to a 1GR near you:

    Cut out a section of the top airbox shell and install a piece of polycarbonate for the cool factor and ability to eyeball the filter

    Replace stock rubber tube with more straight and smooth walled mandrel bent aluminum tube.

    Make a plug for the stock D-VVT-i MAF hole

    Instal a mass air flow adapter tube made ro fit our single VVT-i MAF closer to the stock maf's location.

    Currently eyeing this one:

    http://www.treadstoneperformance.co...ter+Pipe,+Subaru,+Scion,+Mazda,+Toyota,+Lexus


    Something really neat I observed in this project, the end of the FJ tube is larger than the stock Tacoma's throttle body by a few MM, not so much bigger that it can't seal to the TB with a hose clamp, but big enoughbto imply the Dual VVTi 1GR TB is larger in diameter than our Tacoma's single 1GR engine's. as many may know the TB is the limiting factor of making naturally aspirated HP. It is the gate into the engine and you can only suck so much air through a given hole (without forced induction mind you) and a larger TB and Tune and you can make more power. if this is true that the Dual VVTI 1GR has a larger TB, it may be worth it to look into bolting on the newer 1GR's TB onto the Tacoma.
     
  2. Sep 15, 2017 at 4:49 AM
    #2
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei [OP] Well-Known Member

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    My Mad-Gyver-Max'ed temporary MAF instal.

    20170914_123027-1.jpg

    A more solid solution is in the works.
     
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  3. Sep 15, 2017 at 6:15 AM
    #3
    blu92in99

    blu92in99 Hates everyone, equally

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    ThatguyJZ and Key-Rei[OP] like this.
  4. Sep 15, 2017 at 6:32 AM
    #4
    Torspd

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    Good adaptation. :thumbsup: I have the Treadstone MAF tube. MAF bolts in properly.

    The Dual VVT-I TB is a few mills larger than the single. Known fact. Which you hypothesized. 70mm vs 68mm. URD sells an adapter plate to mount the 70mm TB to the 2nd Gen intake manifold. More POWA!
     
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  5. Sep 15, 2017 at 6:38 AM
    #5
    PapaBear

    PapaBear Never test how deep the water is with both feet.

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    At first I thought this thread was about swapping heads lol I might have to try this for the time being while N/A. Good write up @Key-Rei :thumbsup:
     
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  6. Sep 15, 2017 at 7:06 AM
    #6
    99TacoDriver

    99TacoDriver Well-Known Member

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    Interested to see outcome and hear how it performs
     
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  7. Sep 15, 2017 at 8:32 AM
    #7
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    Dont look like there would be enough room for the above setup on the 2012+ V6 tacos as they have the air injection pump there (unless you wanted to relocate it).


    Also stock intake only marginally restricts a stock SUPERCHARGED setup.... definitely does not restrict a stock NA'd motor. That stated, more filtering media, better filter etc are all very good reasons to switch. Sweet setup man!
     
    Key-Rei[OP] likes this.
  8. Sep 15, 2017 at 6:21 PM
    #8
    Lord Helmet

    Lord Helmet Prepare To Attack

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    Sub'd for a cool mod :thumbsup:
     
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  9. Sep 15, 2017 at 8:58 PM
    #9
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well after a day of running around with no issues I had a very minor set back. This evening, on my drive into work cruising 70mph straight and flat on the highway I popped check light codes p0171 and p0174 Bank 1 and bank 2 lean condition.

    I'm fairly certain it's my temp fabricobbled MAF seal having a vacuum leak and the fact that the sensor itself does not sit very far into the intake tube, but fear not, I picked up some goodies today from the good folks at American MotorSports today!!!

    (http://americanmotorsports.net)

    Really great guys, friendly, happy to help, give advise, BS, and work with you, they run business the old fashioned American way! :thumbsup:

    I picked up section a 4" alluminum tube and the necessary rubber couplers to go from the 3.75 FJ box outlet to the 3" Tacoma TB. I got a 3" maf housing from O Reillys. (Probably the best box chain parts store but that's another story...) The MAF housing is another temporary hold over, "Spectre" branded "Type R rice burning chrome plastic special" POS but it is the right ID and OD (inside diameter and outside diameter) should do the job and doesn't involve me cutting up the FJ or Stock air boxes.

    So I'll make do with what I got until this bad boy shows up in the mail, it's coming from a company in Miami so it should be here within a week, maybe two, thanks O'Irma.

    http://www.treadstoneperformance.co...nge+Pipe,+Subaru,+Scion,+Mazda,+Toyota,+Lexus

    I ordered the 3.5" version as I'm really liking the idea of trying out the HO (High-Output) FJ throttle body if my suspicions are confirmed that it is a larger ID TB, and since they are the same price and screw it maybe I'll go FI in the future with the HO TB.

    Currently looking for anyone with an FJ or T4R with the Dual VVT-I TB in the Orlando area so I can take some measurements and gander. I'll buy you a beer for it! :cheers:

    Adding the current damage after the new parts to the cost of the used FJ box: $175 more than I'd like TBH but I shouldn't need any more parts and it's still half the cost of a AirAid. In for a penny in for a pound.

    That's all for tonight, more pictures of the goodies and instal coming tomorrow morning, stay tuned!

    :transformer:
     
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  10. Sep 15, 2017 at 9:00 PM
    #10
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei [OP] Well-Known Member

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    :ohsnap::yes::yay::amen:
     
  11. Sep 16, 2017 at 3:20 AM
    #11
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I looked into the URD TB adapter and discovered that yes the 1GR DVVT-I TB will work and is 70mm vs the stock single VVT-i's 68mm as @Torspd mentioned, however...

    The 2U TB is 76mm and will also fit with URD adapter!
    And I know I can get ahold of a 2U TB way easier than a DVVT TB.

    Looks like I might be upping my TB shortly...

    Man this thread is just lit with acronyms.
     
  12. Sep 16, 2017 at 3:42 AM
    #12
    Blacktaco2042

    Blacktaco2042 Well-Known Member

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    I wanna get a bigger tb for my sc taco.what would be the best one to get?
     
  13. Sep 16, 2017 at 5:05 AM
    #13
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well I'm certainly no expert on the matter, but in general an engine is an air pump, the more air it can move the better. So bigger is best, the question then becomes how big is too big? For that you'd need someone versed in fluid dynamics for an educated answer. My guess is the opening to the draw would have to be equal or lesser than the mouth of the draw. (I'm assuming we wouldn't want a TB larger than our piston diameter, that said our valves then become the limiting factor rather than the TB. How big and how much air can our cylinder heads and valetrain flow, that I don't know.)

    In an ICE (Internal combustion engine) you're actually burning the oxygen for power; fuel is just the catalyst. So in theory the more air the more power hence the basic principle of forced induction (Be it turbo charged or Super charged the only basic difference is deliver method and driven method) and why a larger TB and improve torque and HP.

    The other side of the equation, quite literally is exhaust, if you can't evacuate the product of the chemical reaction, (the CO carbon monoxide) then you will actually be weakening the fuel and oxygen burn. So you must be able to flow at LEAST as much exhaust gas as intake air surge or your engine will choke on itself. My expectation is for a SC engine with stock manifold style exhaust catylists and normal dia tubing you would want to stick with the stock sized TB as you're already limited on your evacuation and have a surplus of forced air. More pressure coming in than can be made going out.

    In short if you are forced induction (FI) then you really need to upgrade your exhaust before you upgrade your intake or you will actually make matters worse.

    The primary purpse of me upping my TB size is that I am naturally aspirated so my induction is measured in vacuum (in Hg, inches mercury drawn) vs PSI or pounds per square inch, so the only way I can increase my HP and Tq is to increase the air my engine moves, more air in more air out. I have already taken care of the product side of the exhange by upgrading my exhaust system. (DT long tube headers, cat be gone, path reroute high flow muffler)

    An FI system is still an ICE so both sides of the equation matter however you are mechanically squeezing more air into the engine to be burned, that is your performance multiplier, a bigger TB would allow you to more easily squeeze in more air but again if you can't completely burn and exhaust the air you are wasting it! (And your money!)

    In an NA system however you can only add power by improving volumetric efficiency, you want to get your vacuum charge as close to 0 as you can. (Assuming you're running the TRD/Magnusson you're completely out of vacuum and actually running 5PSI more than atmosphere pressure! So that's actually not 5psi of boost but 5psi on top of the psi needed to counter the vacuum and reach 0 psi!!! ) To improve the volumetric efficiency ypu need to allow for easier air delivery, less resistance more flow, air is technically a fluid so think of it like a pipe, the bigger the pipe the more water it can carry without the water having pressure behind it, and exhaust evacuation and ultimately RPM. HP is directly proportional to RPM, the more RPM you can turn the more HP you will make, hence why 1.6l F1 engines make like 1000hp because they turn +15000rpm! (Or like whatever I don't follow F1)

    So now that I've typed my thumbs off (on mobile) and talked in circles here's the TLDR:

    Bigger TB's will help NA motors more than FI motors, and both inducted methods of engine will be helped more by better exhaust in conjuction with.

    I HOPE my crash course in engine function was worth the read and you learned something!

    Again I'm only a shade tree mechanic and backyard/internet engineer so if someone knows better please correct me as I'd be happy to learn and unhappy to be leading folks a stray.
     
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  14. Sep 16, 2017 at 5:42 AM
    #14
    Blacktaco2042

    Blacktaco2042 Well-Known Member

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    So far I have a volant intake and urd y pipe and trd cat back exhaust.
     
  15. Sep 16, 2017 at 6:04 AM
    #15
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Those are actually pretty good to have, but your Log manifolds and cats are still your buggest restrictors.
     
  16. Sep 16, 2017 at 6:07 AM
    #16
    Blacktaco2042

    Blacktaco2042 Well-Known Member

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    Yea I wanna get headers soon..not sure if I want the urd ones or something else
     
  17. Sep 16, 2017 at 8:19 AM
    #17
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    The 76mm TB is not scaled the same as the 70mm. Therefore it will work, but it will have a lot of throttle hang.

    I have it, and had to recalibrate it when I installed it with my Haltech Elite standalone.

    It worked on my stock ecu, but there were always quirks.
     
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  18. Sep 16, 2017 at 2:49 PM
    #18
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Good to know, thanks! Did you recalibrate with URD stuff?
     
  19. Sep 16, 2017 at 4:24 PM
    #19
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    does the slightly bigger dual vvti TB show any gains on a single vvti motor?
     
  20. Sep 17, 2017 at 12:46 PM
    #20
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Got my MKII tube set up and installed today.
    Reset my efi and with 1hr of driving no check light yet.

    Had to go out and get some larger hose clamps! 4" intake tube is HUGE!

    I got a little creative, instead of just blocking off the FJ MAF hole I installed a fitting allowing me to plumb my crank case ventilation and fuel rail regulator vacuum lines into it.

    20170917_132041.jpg 20170917_132041.jpg 20170917_132350.jpg 20170917_141948.jpg 20170917_141944.jpg
     
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